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log splitter backstop failure, need help w/ fix ideas

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  • #16
    Agreed, this is simple and the up side is it wont cost much, kink or not I agree with welding simple stiffener in the back, several ways to do it, a plate may be sufficient but 2 plates with a backer would be the best, a chunk of 6 inch heavy channel would be the easiest, even chunk of tube steel
    This is what makes welding so useful. We had a repair the other day, pin fell out of something and bent or broke a cyl end and a bracket,,, that was the bad news, that and half a day labor, the upside is we had everything to do it with, no expensive part to source or wait for.
    A big chunk of steel and a weld up each side, bend it back a little, touch extra the other way.

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    • #17
      You're right! I want it to remain fun and not turn into a Darwin award story.

      I have a couple cords of split green wood and several dry so there isn't really any panic.

      Originally posted by snowbird View Post
      NO! You are not, better be safe than....whatever else.

      Take your time, have fun, make it right and when job done contemplate it with satisfaction, that will be the only gratification you might expect.

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      • #18
        I don't know how easy it is for you to cut that backer plate or if you have any more of that plate material, but here is an idea to stop the backer bending more and provide a square surface to split against.



        You could sharpen the new plate or leave it square.

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        • #19
          I just tried a come-along, heat from an acetylene torch and a 7lb sledge and I got nothing. My neighbor offered his oxy-acet rig with a rosebud for heat so that's the next step in addition to a bigger hammer. If that doesn't work I'll cut a slot halfway through the back of it and use all of the above methods, again. If (when) she straightens out I'll add in three 1/2" plate braces to backside and maybe even two on the front side.

          He offered but I hate borrowing tools.

          I sure do appreciate all of the responses. Thank you.

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          • #20
            I'd heat it up, use a chain and pull it with the hyd cylinder. But throw an old beach towel or bed sheet over the middle of the chain. If the chain breaks, the towel will dampen any recoil. Also, if you are worried, attach a small rope to the hyd valve so you can stand out of harms way. If you break the chain it isnt anywhere hot enough.
            Miller Syncrowave 180
            Millermatic 251
            Thermal Dynamics 51 Plasma
            Wolfpac 175
            Etc.

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            • #21
              Heres a pic of one i built a few years ago. Its got a 30 ton cylinder on it and nothing has budged a bit.
              Attached Files
              Miller Syncrowave 180
              Millermatic 251
              Thermal Dynamics 51 Plasma
              Wolfpac 175
              Etc.

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              • #22
                Good, certainly well beyond sufficient.

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                • #23
                  That's a proper beam!
                  Originally posted by UpperCanadaTree View Post
                  Heres a pic of one i built a few years ago. Its got a 30 ton cylinder on it and nothing has budged a bit.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by UpperCanadaTree View Post
                    I'd heat it up, use a chain and pull it with the hyd cylinder. But throw an old beach towel or bed sheet over the middle of the chain. If the chain breaks, the towel will dampen any recoil. Also, if you are worried, attach a small rope to the hyd valve so you can stand out of harms way. If you break the chain it isnt anywhere hot enough.
                    Thanks, I didn't know about the use of towels etc.. for dampening the break. I tried the cylinder method using a 12' pole but it didn't budge.

                    We just got done heating it up w/ oxy + acet + rosebud tip, with a come-along and sledge hammer. It was out 1.25" and we got it back .25" after a lot of effort. Nothing was working so we quenched the inside of it with water and it sucked back over. It ain't perfect but I can work with it or cut the ****ed thing off and start over.

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                    • #25
                      how about something like this.

                      Click image for larger version

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                      IBEW electrican 26 yrs

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by UpperCanadaTree View Post
                        Heres a pic of one i built a few years ago. Its got a 30 ton cylinder on it and nothing has budged a bit.
                        That looks amazingly like my wood splitter.... My uncle built it back in the mid 70's and it still runs strong to this day....

                        If the OP's splitter was mine... I'd just cut off the backstop plate and weld on a stub beam of similar size to the main beam. problem solved.
                        Bobcat 225NT
                        Cutmaster 52
                        Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
                        Caterpillar TH63
                        '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by rvpc View Post
                          how about something like this.

                          [ATTACH]29362[/ATTACH]
                          Yes, exactly, there is no reason the plate couldnt be cut and welded if need be.

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                          • #28
                            Personally I would gouge out the face of the plate, place a couple good BFH swings til its where i want it and weld solid. Then take a couple semi circle pieces "the length of the plate" and weld them solid on the back.
                            Joe
                            wrench3047@gmail.com

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