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MIG welding cast iron exhaust manifold.

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  • MIG welding cast iron exhaust manifold.

    You guys know how hard it is sometime to weld an old junky exhaust manifold? I have done hundreds of them over the last 34 years most of them stick with Ni rod and some brazed. Some worked well some didn't. So move ahead 30 years i picked up some Crown Alloys .035 44-30 mig wire for cast iron. Its used with Argon and works great. This manifold on my Geo Metro had a crack and it has been hissing for 4 months or so. I drove the car around to warm it up since i wasn't planning to remove it and hit the crack with a die grinder and a stone. Then i dabbed the mig wire in the clean area and triggered it right up the crack. It took about 30 seconds and sealed the crack right up. I let the car run for a few minutes and then let it cool. So far so good. The 2# spool is 75 bucks and i wanted to try it out for a test...Bob
    http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet...ew_Warning.pdf
    Attached Files
    Bob Wright

    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  • #2
    Looks like a miracle wire for cast iron, looks like it does well, with not so clean parent metal. Did you notice any porosity anywhere in the weld?
    I might have to get myself a roll.

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    • #3
      The cast has to be clean. I ground where i was going to weld with a die grinder and a stone to shiney metal. The wire stuck perfect to that area. Nope no pin holes. It could have been better if i had more then 2" of room to work in but it was fine...Bob
      Bob Wright

      Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
      http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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      • #4
        Keep us posted on how it lasts. New technology is great. Good job , Wayne
        252 Miller Mig
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        • #5
          I will watch it since its on my daily driver. I didn't want to try it on someone elses ride first...Bob
          Bob Wright

          Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
          http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

          Comment


          • #6
            That is some awesome wire. I bought a 10# spool and it was worth every cent.
            It is so nice to be able to just spot it in quick like that. Much more control than rod.
            JIM

            Owner Operator of JNT Mobile Welding & Repair LLC
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            • #7
              Hi Bob,
              Let us know how it's holding up a month from now. I'm curious. I've never MIG welded a cast exhaust manifold before but sounds a lot quicker than how I've been doing them for a long time now. In the past I've been drilling stop holes at the ends of the crack then veeing them out with a die grinder, pre heating then TIG welding them with some coated 309L filler I've had around for so many years now I can't remember who made them or where I bought them then some post heat and pack in sand to cool. I've not had any problems with this method but yours sounds so much easier and definitely faster especially if you can reach the crack without removing the manifold.

              Thanks for sharing this info with us!
              Blondie (Owner C & S Automotive)

              Colt the original point & click interface!

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              • #8
                I will watch it. I have been driving the car 80-100 milkes a day for the last week and so far the weld is just fine. It was a stress crack from the exhaust hanging on it and i fixed the broken hanger also...Bob
                Bob Wright

                Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
                http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi Gang,
                  I realize this is an old thread but I thought I'd give my opinions of 44-30. I bought a 2# spool ($85 bucks!) to do my friends F150 manifold with a hole in it about the size of a nickel. I cleaned the manifold meticulously with a carbide grinder and preheated to about 350F. It seems to me this manifold is not cast but forged. The grinding left a shinny surface with no traces of grey cast iron and heating the manifold changed it's color similar to steel.
                  I used the 44-30 which worked very well but I'm wondering if I could have used 70s-2 and TIGed or Miged it with good results. Anyone tried it?

                  Rob

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                  • #10
                    Exhaust manifolds should be cast iron. The iron compound may vary some but they should be cast iron. Back in the day i would weld them with 7018 but that didn't always work well...Bob
                    Bob Wright

                    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
                    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by robaroni View Post
                      Hi Gang,
                      I realize this is an old thread but I thought I'd give my opinions of 44-30. I bought a 2# spool ($85 bucks!) to do my friends F150 manifold with a hole in it about the size of a nickel. I cleaned the manifold meticulously with a carbide grinder and preheated to about 350F. It seems to me this manifold is not cast but forged. The grinding left a shinny surface with no traces of grey cast iron and heating the manifold changed it's color similar to steel.
                      I used the 44-30 which worked very well but I'm wondering if I could have used 70s-2 and TIGed or Miged it with good results. Anyone tried it?

                      Rob
                      Hoping someone will answer your question. I'm repairing an old Baby Bear wood stove (cast -- likely high carbon content) that has most, if not all the floor, burned out from years of use. I'm planning on putting a 1/8" or 1/4" steel plate floor in as a replacement, but have had poor luck working on old castings. I know the Premium Nickel-Iron-Manganese MIG Wire is often used with pre-heating (500-1200 degrees), but I'm doing a very long rectangular plate (stove floor) and will have difficulty getting uniform preheating (even when I monitor it with my laser temp sensor).

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                      • #12
                        I would fab up a pan that bolts in and seal it with stove cement. So that it can not crack and fall out.

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