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Is welding of thin stainless steel tubing (wall thickness 0.01" - 0.02") possible ?

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  • #16
    I tig .022 steel parts .57 mm, these are done at about 10 amps for a butt joint, this is the thinnest material I work with. There are pics in my profile, click on album.

    I never knew they made 80% silver solder, good to know.

    I use a Dynasty 200 dx machine, wp9 torch and a gas lens but my work isnt as small as your compound joints.

    For filler wire I use .023 steel mig wire inside a small diameter piece of copper tube to hold it straight. I have a roll of .030 stainless 304 that I have used on stainless parts. This wire may come in smaller diameters.

    The thin gage materials are purge welded too, as the atmospheric oxygen can attack the material from the backside as well.
    Last edited by popspipes; 01-09-2012, 09:00 AM.
    mike sr

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    • #17
      Pop
      for what it is worth.... you could use sterling silver wire as "silver solder" on anything that has a higher melting point.... 92.5 percent silver, melting temperature of 1475°F (802°C) and a liquidus flow point of 1650°F (899°C)

      so for stainless steel it would work fine as a top tier ultra hard silver solder...
      .

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      • #18
        Originally posted by H80N View Post
        Pop
        for what it is worth.... you could use sterling silver wire as "silver solder" on anything that has a higher melting point.... 92.5 percent silver, melting temperature of 1475°F (802°C) and a liquidus flow point of 1650°F (899°C)

        so for stainless steel it would work fine as a top tier ultra hard silver solder...
        Thanks for the info, I dont do much silver soldering, I use 45% for most of it as its noncritical things.
        mike sr

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        • #19
          Joint fit is crucial. I would imagine a jig with file/burr tooling is available. Like chainsaw sharpening files.

          The next issue is jigging to hold joint while welding. But seeing how you have silver soldered, that should be a given.

          Micro torch is also a must for most joints. I would stick with 0.040" electrodes with a good inverter type machine that has adjustable arc starting parameters, like a Dynasty. These also have an automatic spot mode which might be handy for tack welding. 0.020" tungstens are fragile. WP125 is a good choice here since the glass/fused quartz nozzles in 45, 90 and 180 degree heads make for great visibility.

          Shade 8 with suitable magnification is a good starting point, I weld up to 50 amperes with shade 8 with my Dynasty on the small stuff (0.040" tungsten).

          With good fit and practice, this can be done. If you could find a few feet of ER309L in 0.023", you would be set for life.

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