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help needed urgently!!!

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  • help needed urgently!!!

    please can all u tig welders help.
    i hav a test on monday doing a 2" stainless pipe in the 6g position and hav had no experience with this atall. the test is an 8 hour drive away from where im at so am really keen to get any info or tips to pass it. my experience with tig is not much and i know i shld hav more experience to do this test but times are hard and im desperate for a job.
    im going for training tomoro for 8 hours so can put ur advice into practice.
    its more the root and the hotpass i think im goin to struggle with so any info with these runs will be so greatly appreciated.
    thankyou so much in advance
    will keep u posted on how i get on tomoro.
    xx

  • #2
    your are kidding?

    your kiddding right? when i decided to become a certified welder for a major oilfield company that i work for, i practiced welding pipe in 6G position for over a year before i took the test!!! not even taking into account i've been welding since the age 14 & worked as a "pipe fitter" for 2 years prior to taking the test. my words of advice is do not take the test unless you know without a doubt that your going to pass it. i work in a refinery that has miles & miles of pipes, some of which has 8500 psi. it would scare me to death at the thought of someone with no experiance had made some of those welds. sorry if i sound rude. good luck!

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    • #3
      Good luck, but handirod is absolutely right, you need more time with tig as eight hours is not enough.

      Wheelchair

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      • #4
        Been a pipefitter welder for 28 years and an inspector for 18, the other guys are right, the weld tech will know if you know your stuff in 30 seconds, learn everything you can in those 8 hours and remember it.

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        • #5
          its too soon i know!!

          just before xmas there i was at a company learning the tig for 2 months. the gaffer and the boy teaching me were delighted wi how much i progressed in that time. im a perfectionist when it comes to doing my job, everything i do has to be spot on or im not happy. ive been doing x-ray work with the mig for a few years now and been the main repairer for the worst failures on ships as im pretty small and very consciencous at what i do. i know it is very soon but ive got to start somewhere. the superintedant inspector on the job knows me from a past employment and has said not to worry about a thing as theres pipe brackets i can do if i fail. i dont want to do this tho.(he knows my experience with tig). my plan is to go, so any encouraging advice is most welcome.
          if i pass that means ill be good enough for the job (thats what the test is for) if i fail, i obviously need more practice. please help if you can xx

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          • #6
            Go for the Flat !!

            You might want to go for the flat, if you roll the work as you weld. As for the ship hulls welding, Sometimes those welds are done at a dock as a ship is taking on cargo by a commercial diver and sometimes the diver can do underwater a better weld then a surface welder but in most cases, not. Again depends on their experience. I have helped another diver weld but he had to be certified by Lloyd's for insurance purposes.

            Skaught

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            • #7
              Greetings and best of luck with this. I am probably going to take some flack for this but if you are willing to drive 8 hours for this then you at least might have the guts to pull it off. Everyone has to start somewhere and you have to make the most of the chances you are dealt.

              Since you are a pro already and claim to have a good background I believe you can pull this off if you have the hand skills, judgement and a little luck! FYI your question may have also been answered on the Miller Motorsports message board.

              I do this using the walk the cup technique, which you should be able to find more examples of on the internet:

              http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/WalkingTheCup.htm

              Prep the pipe to a feather edge and use a file to straighten out the landing to maybe a 1/16th" width or so at most.

              I use a ratcheting Bessy clamp with bit of angle iron welded to each jaw to clamp the pieces at the right gap - which is a loose 1/8th".

              This pipe is stainless so you need to setup an argon purge. Use masking tape to seal up the whole gap and around the clamp. Tape or cap off ends of pipe and start purge. Peel back a bit of the tape where you place your 1st tack which will be about 1/2" long. When done, cover that tack with tape and proceed to do 2 or 3 more. If the pipe is tacked correctly a 1/8th" rod will just not quite fit through the gap. You are going to weld from tack to tack so feather back the edges of the tack you are starting on to the one you finish on.

              Set the piece in the 6g position, with ends capped/taped off and purge on. Peel back some of the tape on the bottom and start your root. I think about 80amps is good starting point. Use a 1/8th" rod, lay it in the groove, set the torch cup against the bevel and wiggle your torch over the filler. If you get a wide spot where the rod really slips through too easily switch to a 5/32" filler - if too tight use a 3/32" filler rod. Weld from the bottom up each side, finishing off at the top. When done, a good root pass (hot pass too) will almost look like it has a little cold lap in the edges of the bevel

              The hot pass goes in the same, with the same heat or maybe a hair hotter if you like. Just lay the rod on the root pass and wiggle the torch over it, wetting it out onto the bevel but not far up it. If the inside of the root sugars after the hotpass, you didn't purge well enough, your hot pass was too slow, or too hot. Should be able to remove the purge after the hotpass or maybe 1st fill pass.

              For fill passes you may want to switch to larger cup sizes. Flush out the weld right to the edges of the bevel but do leave the edges there as a guide when you cap. By the time I cap I am at a #10 cup size and just roll the torch over the filler rod as with all previous passes and bring it just a hair past the bevel edge. A nice cap will be just above flush. If you are low just run another on right on top of it.

              Let us know how this goes!
              Last edited by hurricunning; 01-31-2008, 10:06 AM. Reason: speling

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              • #8
                ur some man!!!

                can i tell u chris that ur an absolute gem!!

                this is exactly the kind of info i was looking for and uv helped me no end and put my mind a little more at ease as im so very worried about the whole thing. hope u dont mind but ive printed off ur instructions and will be taking it with me to read while im training tomoro. u certainly no what ur talking about and i understand everything, just putting it into practice is going to be the hard bit for sure.
                i will send u a private mgs tomoro and tell u how i got on.
                as for getting cheek off the bears, a million apoligies in advance.
                im a stubborn little bugger and when i want to do something i do it!! usually in style too! this might be way out of my league but i wont no until i try. im absolutely determined to pass this test though. ive worked with some of the boys on the job in the past and they wld get a right good giggle if i failed so im not going to let this happen if i can help it.

                cant thank you enough for ur help. better go to bed now cos i need to be up in 5 an a half hours an probably wont sleep much tonight with worrying.

                kindest regards lorraina xx

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                • #9
                  Try to get a copy of the test procedure before hand so you know exactly what the inspector will be looking for. He may dictate that you need XX number of tacks which are XX long in XX orientation etc. He may want to inspect it after fitup and after the root pass. Be very familiar with the procedure - you don't want to be making any silly errors as test inspectors can be very unforgiving. You are surely going to be learning how bad your hand can cramp up walking that **** tig torch too! Relax a bit and just use enough pressure to keep the cup on the surface and keep it from slipping off. You don't need a death grip. There are also other methods to do this weld ie Freehanding and feeding the rod through the top of the gap to make the puddle on the inside of the bottom but that stuff may be more tricky and need more practice time. Walking the cup is pretty foolproof once you have it down. Have fun!
                  Last edited by hurricunning; 01-31-2008, 10:22 AM.

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                  • #10
                    this might be a little late but.. remember to tail out every time u have to stop it is so important to do this. also not too much heat on ur fill u will get some suck back but staying in the middle will cause more and that is no good.

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                    • #11
                      hi guys.
                      thanx for ur comments. its not too late as i never slept i wink last nite till about 6 this morning cos i was worrying so much, so nvr went in to do the training today. also when i did get up i remembered i had to collect money from the credit union today cos its closed tomoro and im away sunday. its all a bit of a disaster really.
                      called the training guy and he was fine about it and said just come in tomorro no bother. if im doing well he said hed stay back for an extra hour or so for more experience which is ace. so early nite tonight for sure!!

                      i will get in touch with my mates who are already on the job and find out the procedure and any other specifications that i will need.

                      wen i was at that company up north i managed to walk the torch quite well and found that if u do use too much pressure it tends to slip a way up the pipe so id hold it just lightly and then it worked no bad. yeah, ive experienced the sore hand after a days practice. this is probably more because my technique isnt at its best yet.

                      yeah the tailing off is quite important (as with any welding) so i will be sure and do that. the boy teaching me before said i wasnt spreading the metal enough at first and it would cos me problems in future so when welding now my mind keeps telling me to spread more. seems to work or mabay im just mad!!

                      i promise to keep u posted on the outcome of my quest to pass this darn test.

                      thanks again so much for ur replies.

                      lorraina xx

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                      • #12
                        Excellent Instruction!!

                        Hurricunning,Your instructions to Girly Welder brought back memories of things I had forgotten long ago. Time flies, 29 years ago I was a certified tig welder in Louisiana working in construction of Petrochemical Plants. I quit welding for a living in 1982 and started working with wood. I still enjoy welding. You were right on with the things you said, to bring back alot of memories. Back in the day, we had asbestos cloth and packing available, I made a index finger stub glove so I could run the root passes by placing index finger on work piece and not get to hot. I would then "walk the cup" for fill and cap. Have a good day.

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                        • #13
                          girly_welder!

                          hope ya made out good and kicked butt

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                          • #14
                            Just a breif comment Go for it and good luck posative thinking will get ya started the rest will come

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                            • #15
                              "i will send u a private mgs tomoro and tell u how i got on."

                              That'll never do. We all want to know how you did.

                              My sister was the City and County of Denver's FIRST female firefighter. Yep, she kicked down the door on the good ole boy's club, 1984.

                              Good Luck!!

                              Comment

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