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Marine grade stainless + wood slat table

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  • #16
    Looks Amazing man...Great work A+ Build!


    • #17
      thanks fellas. the tables pretty stiff and stable in general use, as it's not overly large and heavy, so i decided not to cross brace the legs.

      the next piece for my place is going to be a tall, long, skinny serving table arrangement, for the BBQ. i reckon i might do a set of high bar stools to go with it, so it can double as a bar once the servings all done

      the slat table isn't staying with me, so unfortunately it wont be me soaking the suds and watching the waves, but hopefully the recipients enjoy it!


      • #18
        do you mind posting pics of how the wood is mounted to the frame. trying to do something similar.


        • #19
          given that this is not on a boat, teak wood would be a waste of money. Ipe is a solid choice for this project. Mangaris would also give the same look and is cheaper then ipe.

          Both these woods last just as well as teak. Teak is popular with the boating industry because it is a light hardwood.


          • #20
            hi fshkypr,

            i don't have any pics of the underside but its not hard to visualise with an explanation. the table in the current thread isn't attached in the best of ways but the other pieces i've made are done a bit better

            basically get some 25x25x3 stainless angle (1"x1"x1/8") and cut it so it sits flush inside the frame width-ways

            using an offcut of the timber or something the same thickness as whatever the table top will be, set the depth and stitch weld the SS angles in place. for a straight slatted top i'd put one on either endpiece and two in the middle if it's a big long table.

            now if you're using slats roughly mark out their position and drill holes in the angle supports. i like to do 2 screws per slat per support so i do end up drilling plenty of holes. i should have recommended doing this before welding them in especially if you have a drill press to take some of the pain away

            lastly line up the slats and screw them in from the underside, making sure to keep the slats straight and the gaps even. if you set the depth correctly on all the braces any warped planks will be pulled into line and you should have a flat, flush top