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on-off switch question

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  • on-off switch question

    New to TIG and getting decent with easy stuff on a bench using foot pedal. (I'll be welding Aluminum sheet, angle, and pipe (SCH 40) and some SS tube).

    In my reading and research I've noticed many welders using a pulseing technique and I'd like to learn this. I've praticed with pulseing the foot pedal (and using the pulser of the machine), but in the end I won't be able to use a foot control, so I'd like to start using a torch mounted control, thus my question:

    What torch mounted control do ya'll use?

    I see 2 offered from Miller -

    A- BRMS-14 Remote On/Off Control (14-pin plug)
    Momentary-contact switch for contactor control. Rubber-covered pushbutton dome switch ideal for repetitive on-off applications.

    B - RMLS-14 Remote Switch (14-pin plug)
    Momentary and maintained-contact rocker switch for contactor control. Push forward for maintained contact and backward for momentary contact.

    But my local LWS guy was clueless to the following questions:

    Q1-do you have to hold down the button on the BRMS-14 switch? or is it a toggle - push it once for on-release and it stays on/then push again for off/etc. How exactly does it work.

    Q2-on the RMLS-14 I assume the 'momentary' is spring loaded and it has to be held down for 'on', can anyone confirm? What happens if you just hold it down?

    Q3-on the RMLS-14 if I push forward will the switch 'lock on'? So that to turn off I would push backward gently (else it would be 'momentary' on?).

    Q4-what are the advantages/disadvantages from any of ya'll with real world expierience?

    Thanks much

  • #2
    If I remember right your
    (A) Momentary is just that when you push it it closes contact. When you release it breaks contact. Think of the trigger on a MIG torch. they are mainly used for a pre programmed sequence. Every time you bump it it goes into the next step.
    (B) Rocker type Momentary side functions like (A) Above. rock other way it latches in to a maintained contact, stays on till you rock it back to center.
    Hope that helps you out.

    Comment


    • #3
      on off switch

      i just got the rccs-14 #043 688 from cyberweld .com for $169.15
      no tax no shipping it works great just roll the knob forward for more
      amps

      Comment


      • #4
        What you call the on-off switch I lovingly call "the button". It is a production @$$ kickin' setup!!
        I learned to use from knowing people who welded aluminum in factories and hearing them go on about it so much. I just went to my local LWS and picked out the cheapest one I could find ($40) and wired it into my old Airco with plain old "lamp cord" from the hardware store. It transformed that old machine into a whole different way of welding. It is basically a manual pulser.
        Then I went to work in a factory (boat) that used it and kept right up.
        You set the machine to whatever you think is as hot as you would ever want it and GO. Then if it is a little too hot you can just let up a second. At the end of a weld you can "flutter" it if it is thin material that will burn away.
        It can fill gaps like nobodies bizness.
        It is the ultimate weapon when welding anodized aluminum because it can blast away all anodize to the edges of the weld and lay down a bead superior to any other method for making marine fixtures...many factories do this making it possible to weld pre-anodized material.
        All that said I presently have the east-west fingertip controller on my Dynasty and like it also because it is hard for me to crawl out from under boats all day to reset all the time. I will get the "button" next before the "pedal"
        I have used all 4 methods a bunch ( nothing..just live, pedal,ie ball and chain IMO, button, and fingertip both east-west and north-south) they all have their place....master them all and you will never want for work.
        All of this was on aluminum BTW. HTH

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