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  • Hi I got a ?

    Hi everybody this is my first post. I have been watching this site for a couple of months now and have gotten a ton of usefull info from it. With all the cool projects it sure has me itching to get back out into the shop and starte on my new ( very used ) trailer. Just waiting for the doc to give me the ok to starte walking again , got in a very bad motorcylct accident back in june of 07 , still waiting to go back to work.

    Alright hear is my ? I have been given a tandeum axle trailer in exchange for some snow plow work i did last year. I am going to post the pictures in this post I hope. The trailer frame is good, the tongue is just cobbled together. Also it needs new axles and lights . My main use for the trailer will be hauling firewood. I am loking to put 2 3500lb axles under it.

    The trailer frame is made up of 4" c-channel 3/16 thick with a 1and 1/2" top.
    size of trailer is 5'5" X 11'

    Is this strong enough for 7000lb gross weight

    What materail should I use to replace the tongue, Angle ,c-channel , or tubing

    Should I put on A wood or steal deck

    Sorry for the long post
    Attached Files

  • #2

    By the looks of it, it appears that the I-beams are a bit under sized and the supports are spaced out pretty far. But I think the main concern is the integrity of the I-beams. 7K is a lot of weight! I have a S185 Turbo bobcat that weighs in at about 6,200 pounds and my trailer is rated at 10K and it always seems to tax it anyway. The I-beams on my trailer are 8"X3/8" and the supports are 3"X3/8" angle iron @ 12" OC. I'm not an engineer, but perhaps you are best off looking at a "rated" 7K rig to see what lurks underneath. This may give you a better idea all around and perhaps give you some additional thoughts over all to better prepare your rig.

    Good luck and welcome to our boards. Lots of smart, funny and otherwise fun to converse with folks here.



    • #3
      I know I will need to add more cross braces, at 16" or 12" on center, The cross braces will be 11ga flat bent as a c- channel. I have been able to look at a lot of trailers online and do think that this fram might be fessible. Remeber iam only looking for a 7000lb gross weight so it will only have a 5200 lb to 5600lb cargo weight. These pictures were taken after it thawed out . It was buried in a snow bank. Will 2 X 4 X3/16 tubing work for the tongue.

      Thanks for the feedback


      • #4
        Not too sure but..

        For the tongue this should be O.K., but again I think a bit more steel (5/16") will let you sleep better at night and give you more confidence on the road. I think the "C" channel is your best choice here as "c" and "angle" sections tend to yield better and stronger cross sections. Now back to the main frame. Please check that thing very close. After you get it blasted or otherwise cleaned up, inspect the "I" or "C" channel mains for integrity! I think 3/16" for mains on a 7K is pushing it and perhaps hanging some 3/16" flat stock to the outside will suffice and beats changing out the mains which would probably end your project. I have a tendency especially on vehicles to beef things up. But bad things can happen on the road and there's no point to take any chances. Anyway, this should be a good solution and not to $$ and the additional steel to the tongue is also a good investment for just a bit more $$.

        Good luck, keep me, us posted.



        • #5
          My dad was given a similar trailer that was rolled over in an accident. The frame was twisted in certain areas pretty badly and it was significantly rusted in certain areas. I spent a lot of time bringing this trailer back to decent condition and now the guy who originaly gave it to my dad doesn't even belleive its the same trailer.
          The rear center light bracket is 308 SS and was welded on using 309 filler. After the trailer gets blasted and painted it will be cleaned up and polished. All wiring is enclosed and water tight. The machine is a CAT 262 and I beleive it weighs in at around 11,000lbs. I don't remember what the trailer is rated for but it's not an incredible amount more.


          • #6
            If I welded a rub rail on the outside of the fram and then welded 3/16 on the inside of the fram to box it in. That would give it a lot more strength. I know this traier will never carry a skidder do to how narrow the deck is, If I was looking to carry wheeled items were there is only 4 contact points I whould really have to beef up the fram. The loads Iam looking at carrying are bulding materials like dimensional lumbar and sheets of plywood, also firewood. The load is more spread out then when you have a smaller contact point like wheels resting on the deck.

            That sure is a nice rebuild on the equipment trailer. Looks very well built now compared to before.

            Thanks again


            • #7

              Dabar39 is the resident trailer expert on the Miller board. Guess he's been busy since I haven't seen him in awhile. You may want to drop him an e-mail and get his opinion. Whatever he says, you can take it to the bank.

              Just a suggestion.


              • #8
                Thanks. It took quiete a while to get it to it's current state. I'd also have agree with sundownlll. Dabar does awsome work.


                • #9
                  ? for Anti-GMAW. On the trailer you rebilt I see that there is a adjustable hitch, would you now the dimensions of it L x W X D and the hole spacing. I like the idea of adjusting the hitch and not the ball.

                  I see what you guys are saying about Dabar39, He seems like he is the trailer building king!!!! I have done a search on here for trailers and he sure has possted a lot of good info along with everbody else.

                  I am hoping to keep the trailer as light as possible but still strong . Whould using 3" c channel be better for crossmembers then bent up sheet stock in the form of a c channel ?

                  Thanks again for all your help


                  • #10
                    Sorry but that hitch is long gone in favor of a 2-1/2" ball and hitch. As far as C channel versus angle C channel is a lot stronger.


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