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Accessories / Features For Your Welding Table

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  • Wacko Welder
    started a topic Accessories / Features For Your Welding Table

    Accessories / Features For Your Welding Table

    Any suggestion as to accessories/features to add to your welding table. Any suggestions to make it a more useful tool.

    ie . . . mig gun holder, grinder bracket . . .etc . . .

  • jackh
    replied
    ahh thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Fishy Jim
    replied
    Cutting. They support the work and allow the flame/plasma somewhere to go. When they get cut up or severed, they're replaced.

    Leave a comment:


  • jackh
    replied
    Originally posted by pegleg1 View Post
    My small table I started with and now use it for cutting and clean up. I use the mounted grinder to cut and clean edges for welding and the swamp cooler motor for well you know... I saw that on a forum years ago with the grinder from a guy named Ernie L. ???????? I took the grinder that it was built for off because it was one of the H/F grinders and it would walk all over the floor if I was not holding it down and to noisy.... The De Walt is much quiter and more amps..
    Originally posted by 2002MIG View Post
    One of my first projects was to build a table out of some scrap angle and plate I picked up at one of those "by the lb" places. It's about 60" wide x 38" deep with a .25" top. Now I need a table to catch the slag from cutting with the torch, and I need to mount a post-dolly and bead roller, but don't have any space in the garage. My solution was to build a "work-station" for metal-mooshing. I welded in two 3" square horizontal tubes under my welding table. In these slide 2.75" square tubes with holes to lock into different positions in the outer square tube. These smaller horizontal square tubes are welded to vertical square tubes, which act as receivers for different tools. In the pic I've got a post-dolly stuck in the end. I can remove the receivers when not in use and store them under the table.

    I also wanted to make a cutting table for my torch, so I welded angle on to the horizontal 3" square tubes to act as a shelf for a frame I made out of angle. I also added some angle above the shelf to keep the sliding frame from tipping when extended. I filled the frame with angle, and now I have a cutting table I can slide away under my welding table when I don't need it. Ian
    what are the grate looking parts of these tables for?

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisgay@sbcglo
    replied
    T-slots continued

    1) I had to clean the paint off to weld the riser, which was a chunk of 316 stainless pipe I had laying around. The wall is about 1/2".
    Hey, I had the piece... it was looking for a new home.

    2) The cleaner.

    3) Zip it.

    4) Zipped up.

    5) Pre-paint. Waiting to be dressed up (but ready for work).

    I'll try to post pics of my other welding tables in another post.
    Thanks for looking.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • chrisgay@sbcglo
    replied
    T Slots

    I recently modified the base to one of my welding table (which is actually an older mill/shaper table).

    1) The table.

    2) The table used to be bolted to a 1/2" plate, which had four small steel casters bolted to it. I wanted to raise it up and add larger casters in the process. I just welded the new casters on; well, actually, these casters weren't new, but were recycled from a previous project. I've been really trying to use up all my "scrap" and inventory into shop-related items.

    3) Two fixed, two ridgid.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 10-11-2008, 11:43 PM. Reason: spelling

    Leave a comment:


  • KC1
    replied
    My table

    Here is a photo of my table simple but serves me very well.I use this table for small projects and welding of jigs and fixtures for my bigger table. The bigger table is 4`x 16` and I use it primarily for chassis fabrication.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Orbitalgrind
    replied
    A different Approach to your extentions?.

    Originally posted by EdZep View Post
    I built the table for which Miller has provided full plans (but, no plasma chute until I have plasma, and 3 x 5 instead of 4 x 6 feet). The 2 x 2 x 1/8 square tubing is open on the ends. I think I will eventually add a table extender to at least one end. This could be as simple as rails that slide out of those tubing openings, with an attachable top, or a complete unit that could slide into the openings to attach.

    One problem I've noted is that the inside tubing seams will interfere with sliding of an otherwise properly sized inner tube. How do people remove those seams? Or, maybe I'd have to use round tubing, as the seams are off near an edge.
    What if instead of spending tons more on different tubing, you made a 6" piece
    of channel to fit over the inside tubing,that could slide the length of it.
    On top of the channel/slide, build a sturdy pair of brackets/clamps to hold a grinder with the edge of the blade at 45 or 90 degrees.
    Clamp your grinder in, fire it up, and notch the length of your inner extentions
    on one side, or all four sides if you want.
    Maybe get creative and have the grinder clamps ride on large screws to vary the depth of your cut?.
    Yes, I am nuts, just thinking aloud.

    Leave a comment:


  • Marcel Bauer
    replied
    I am also for leaving tube ends (especially the longer ones) open extra versatility. I leave the lower tubes un-capped for the same reason.

    Table extensions, a place to put a crowbar or pony clamp, a tube of filler rod, whatever you need at the time.

    Leave a comment:


  • SNUNEZ
    replied
    Welding Table Accessories

    I have 2 tables in my own shop and one where I spend 8 to 10 hrs each day day job and I made the frame out of square tubing leaving the longer ones open on the ends "not mitered '' or boxed in then I put a smaller tube in each one of them I slide them out as I need to hang lead stinger C CLAMPS OR for table extensions my tool boxes are opossite table so when I trun around I can get hood grinding shield from hooks at top of tool box about 6 foot high 1 table is slanted for prints sketches or writing the other is flat also tables have a shelf for small parts or drops Hope it helps

    Leave a comment:


  • harold
    replied
    I have 2 small vices each mounted to a seperate 12" x 12" x 1/4" plate. You need to counterbore the bottom mounting holes in the plates so they lay flush on your welding table. They are not bolted or clamped to the table they just slide around to wherever you need them. mighty handy for holding those small and awkward pieces when you are tigging them.
    Harold

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubiconmike
    replied
    My Table

    Here is my home table.
    It was my first project afew years back.
    It fit's in my work-mate.









    This shows the wind/flash guard.

    Leave a comment:


  • mitchell beri
    replied
    The table looks pretty practical for someone like me who doesn't do "heavy stuff".

    Originally posted by EdZep View Post
    >> does anyone have some photo of some welding tables getting ready to build one .

    Brian, here's a pic of my nearly done table from the Miller plans. My first welding project, with a new MM180. I learned too late that the edges of the 3/8 plate could droop a little, with voltage high enough to get good penetration. Glad I used scrapyard plate. I think I should have welded the top on along the inside edge of the frame, rather than the more accessible outside edge. Or, maybe I should have turned the whole thing over, rather than sitting on my butt and doing overhead welds.





    >> You put shims inside the tube to offset the seam.

    Fishy Jim, thanks. Yeah, and I guess I should have made sure all the seams were turned the same way, so shims could be applied the same everywhere needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • lotechman
    replied
    Originally posted by EdZep View Post

    One problem I've noted is that the inside tubing seams will interfere with sliding of an otherwise properly sized inner tube. How do people remove those seams? Or, maybe I'd have to use round tubing, as the seams are off near an edge.
    You can purchase square tubing with a clean interior. Towing hitch shops often use it for hitch extensions. It is very expensive.

    I put a large electrical box well under the table with multiple plugs and a short tail for an extension cord. Plug boxes tend to collect grinding dust unless well underneath the bench.
    Last edited by lotechman; 09-04-2008, 10:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MilwaukeeMike
    replied
    Awesome thread and great ideas!
    once I get my Jap truck frame welded up, i'll be building a table!

    MM

    Leave a comment:

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