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Metal blade for circular saw

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  • #16
    Originally posted by KBar View Post
    Thats ok with a small grinder but in the small tool section, I use mostly air tools and it was too far to drag an air hose, besides, an air hose gets dangerous when you cut it.

    As far as metal blades with teeth, personally I would go with a metal cutting saw rather than a wood saw if you are going to use it on a regular basis. They make them for wood and they make them for metal for a reason.
    I use air tools alot too but use electric 4 1/2 " grinders and working on the building electric was easy. And I agree with the right saw for the right job. I think I'll end up buying a Millwaukee metal cutting saw.

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by migman69 View Post
      you want to cut metal this best might work with the proper abrashive wheel


      Oh thats cute........ already have one of those but hard to follow a line with it...ha ha ha
      Works great on something you dont care about the exact cut, But really works well on concrete

      Comment


      • #18
        syn

        Originally posted by Synchroman View Post
        I cut metal all of the time on my 10" Delta Contractor's Table saw. I use blades from my 14" chopsaw that have worn doiwn to about ten". I use some of mine and also a supply that I get from a friend who has a machine shop. My table saw has a 1 hp Dayton motor with a belt drive at 3,450 rpm.

        It will cut most any thickness of metal up to 1/2". I use it mostly for long cuts in 1/8" sheet. Of course, you need a face mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt to be safe.

        I blow the saw off now and then to keep it clean. It willl still cut wood nicely whenever I want.
        God must be on your side,,how bout a suit of body armor,when one of those worn out blades let go,and sorry,they will!!!!!!!!Have to agree,accident waitng to Happen!!!!!!!!!!!!

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
          Syncroman,

          What you're advocating is truly UNSAFE. You may not have had any problems up to this point, but believe me, it is an accident waiting to happen. It's not a matter of whether an accident will happen, it's a matter of when. I don't know if you've ever seen an abrasive blade "blow up" when put into a bind. I can assure you it's not pretty.
          I agree with you Sundown

          Even with my Dewalt Metal saw, I clamp the metal and it still binds up, stuff flys, wheels break but there is a nice shield in place so I was protected because it was made for these kind of things. When I used the abrasive blade in a circular saw that time, that was bad enough but that was only tin sheets.

          Comment


          • #20
            i am much more experienced as a wood worker than a metal worker and i can say a wood saw is just that a wood saw i dont use my skil saw to cut anything but wood unless its non ferrous metal or im using a diamond blade to cut tile or formica. When i have to cut metal i use my cut off tool, or my 7 1/2inch grinder, or my sawzall with a carbide blade. but i have plans for getting a metal saw

            Comment


            • #21
              Notice how emergency rooms never seem to run out of business. Some of the previous posts explain why.

              Comment


              • #22
                The idea of a metal cutting skilsaw has always scared the bejesus out of me. I could see it's use for cutting tube or bar in the field. I have had some close calls with wood tools and cutting sheet with one of those things I dread if it fed back.

                I typically don't need to cut sheet. If I needed something cut I could get it precut. I cut mostly tube and bar so I've been using a Porter Cable 14" dry cut saw for the past 3 years. This is a great metal saw. It's very accurate, but cuts get sloppier when the blades get dull. Typically the blades last me for 1-2 major projects. Miter cuts wear them out faster. I've had most of the blades resharpened once or twice; except for the ones with missing teeth. I typically find myself needing one when I don't have time to get an old one resharpened, so I've bought six replacement blades. It's heatbreaking to watch how fast a $100+ blade gets dull.

                My dream saw is a KAMA mitering band saw. At $3000+ it's steep but replacement blades are cheap and it's a very accurate saw. Even with the PC saw ($600) plus 6 blades ($600+) it's still a far cry from $3k. Sigh.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Tasselhawf,

                  Believe me, safety is always of the utmost concern to me.

                  For the hobby metalworker (non-production) an inexpensive skil (circular saw) from Lowes/HD for around $60 and a Bullet 7 1/4" Metal cutting carbide blade, provides a means of cutting mild steel plate up to about 1/4". A Milwaukee 8" Metal Cutting circular saw with carbide blade (prefer Morse Metal Devil) is better but much more expensive. A straight edge guide should be used with either.

                  Both saws are much safer than a table saw. Neither saw has the power or inertia of a table saw. If you bind the blade in the cut, the saw will stall, rather than the blade exploding as I have seen with the abrasive blades. Both of these saws should be used with adequate protection (face shield, heavy gloves, etc) since they do throw a fair amount of shavings.

                  I have used both to cut a fair amount of sheet goods. For anything heavier I will use the plasma, or take the material over a buddies shop and have it sheared or cut on the CNC plasma. For really intricate cuts we'll use the water jet (awesome machine).

                  I also own and use the Porter Cable 1410 saw. I have had good luck with the Freud 14" metal cutting carbide blades. They seem to last a good while and can generally be found on e-bay for around $50 plus shipping. You may want to try one. I've also used the Morse Metal Devil 14" blades (around $130 ea) and I don't see a lot of difference in how they wear or cut. I'm pretty particular about what I cut with the PC. For rebar and junk material, I'll drag out the DeWalt abrasive chop saw.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    this seems like a good saw.
                    made by milwaukee electric.

                    powerful 4.8 max HP motor, 15 amp motor (1,500 rpm)

                    Tool-free fence and vise system

                    Heavy-duty cast base

                    Horizontal D-handle for optimum comfort

                    Largest cutting capacity in class

                    Cuts fast with virtually no sparks or burrs

                    SPECIFICATIONS
                    Voltage

                    120 AC/DC
                    Amps

                    15.0
                    Wheel Size

                    14 in.
                    Max. HP

                    4.8
                    Spindle

                    1 in.
                    No Load Speed

                    1,500 RPM
                    Spindle Lock

                    Yes
                    Bevel Capacity

                    45
                    Capacity in O.D. Pipe

                    5-3/8 in.
                    Capacity in Bar Stock

                    ---
                    Capacity in Square Stock

                    5 in.
                    Maximum Opening

                    8 in.
                    Length

                    16-1/2 in.
                    Tool Weight

                    50.0 lbs.
                    Shipping Weight

                    59.0 lbs.

                    INCLUDES

                    Circular Saw Blade 14 in. 72 Tooth Dry Cut Carbide Tipped

                    Hex Key

                    The 6190-20 utilizes dry (a.k.a. "cold") cut technology which will cut on average three times faster than an abrasive machine and costs 1-1/2 times less to operate. The saw produces little to no sparks when cutting and leaves a virtually burr-free finish. The motor is a 15 amp, 4.8 max H.P. The base is a heavy-duty cast aluminum reinforced with a 1/4 in. steel plate. The vise and back fence is tool free. The horizontal D-handle provides optimum comfort whether the tool is on the ground or sitting on a bench.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      migman,
                      I am sorry but you are wrong, cold cut means just that, cold. period. I worked in the industry of sawing equipment, Kaltenbach cold saws and Beringer bandsaws.
                      A cold saw, and I own a coldsaw, means the blade is liquid cooled. A cold saw produces a very accurate cut with minimal bur.
                      I would not trade my saw for anything, it is a copy of a Scotchman but it cuts straight and true even on miters.
                      I am not bashing the guy that cuts sheet steel on the tablesaw, i have seen people that should have known better throw wood pieces because the fence was not true.Their fault for not checking the fence.
                      A table saw is only a tool to be used with some common sence .

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        I own a Millwaukee 8" metal saw, it is one of my favorite tools. I have cut everything from metal roofing, to 1/2'' plate, to diamond plate alum., to 1-1/2" ram stock. The metal is cool to the touch, with little or no burring. The saw collects most of the shavings in the blade cover, but you should still use eye protection. Of course, the blade didn't last too long after I cut the ram stock 3 or 4 times, that's ok with me. The longer you own one, the better it works because you know when to slow down or speed up or change the blade depth, and don't cut any type of spring steel unless it's worth the $50 blade. I would reccomend this saw to anyone.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by tnjind View Post
                          migman,
                          I am sorry but you are wrong, cold cut means just that, cold. period. I worked in the industry of sawing equipment, Kaltenbach cold saws and Beringer bandsaws.
                          A cold saw, and I own a coldsaw, means the blade is liquid cooled. A cold saw produces a very accurate cut with minimal bur.
                          I would not trade my saw for anything, it is a copy of a Scotchman but it cuts straight and true even on miters.
                          I am not bashing the guy that cuts sheet steel on the tablesaw, i have seen people that should have known better throw wood pieces because the fence was not true.Their fault for not checking the fence.
                          A table saw is only a tool to be used with some common sence .
                          how are you telling me im wrong i said it seemed like a good saw and then you go one to say you have one and wouldnt trade it for nothing so how am i wrong by saying its a good saw

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Migman,
                            I apologize, I didn't mean you were wrong about the saw. It probably is a good one, for what it is.
                            I meant that these days industrial technology is samewhat copied and sold to comsumers.
                            The saw I have is all cast iron, swivels, takes a 315 millimeter blade and the cut is coolant cooled.
                            The saw you spec'd out is a cross between an abrasive saw and a true cold saw. That being said I am sure that saw will do well, but it can't be rigid enough for repeatable accurate cuts.

                            The portability will be an advantage big time.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by tnjind View Post
                              Migman,
                              I apologize, I didn't mean you were wrong about the saw. It probably is a good one, for what it is.
                              I meant that these days industrial technology is samewhat copied and sold to comsumers.
                              The saw I have is all cast iron, swivels, takes a 315 millimeter blade and the cut is coolant cooled.
                              The saw you spec'd out is a cross between an abrasive saw and a true cold saw. That being said I am sure that saw will do well, but it can't be rigid enough for repeatable accurate cuts.

                              The portability will be an advantage big time.
                              i appreciate the apology and yes im sure the saw i mentioned probably doesnt have the gusto in the industrial world but for a do it yourselfer at the home shop or anyone needing to cut alot of tubing it would be a great asset i feel since it does not throw a shower of sparks like a standerd chop saw

                              Comment

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