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  • steel finishes

    hi guys. i have a few ideas on things to make as sculptures. they will be painted on the inside, but grind with a flapper wheel on the outside. how can i keep the metal/steel from rusting from weather? spray can clear laquer? or will that rust over time?

  • #2
    You can spray clear from a rattle can or a spray gun. Or you can have them powdercoated clear. I have used clear polyurathane that i use on my hardwood floor and a spray gun because i has some left over from doing my floors...Bob
    Bob Wright

    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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    • #3
      I've found that over time the steel tends to rust under the clear. Use stainless?
      Miller syncrowave 200 runner with coolmate 4
      and wp2025 weldcraft torch
      Miller 125c plasma cutter

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      • #4
        fab,

        you'll need to be Surgically Clean when handling the bare metal: Oil from your hands will start the rusting process quite quickly and if you miss the finger prints as well as any dirt/crud you'll end up sealing it and then you'll really notice it.
        Ed Conley
        http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
        MM252
        MM211
        Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
        TA185
        Miller 125c Plasma 120v
        O/A set
        SO 2020 Bender
        You can call me Bacchus

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        • #5
          they are horseshoes, so i cannot use stainless. i guess i could powder coat them....$$$$

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          • #6
            i found penetrol....its in the spray can too, just trying to find it.

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            • #7
              One of the best ways to treat outdoor sculpture (small scale projects) is by first cleaning it VERY well as SB stated...

              I use Nitrile gloves (not latex and nothing with powder) and wipe down with Acetone as it does not leave a residue behind...

              Then I use a product called "NU-LUSTRE-55" (found at almost any Hardware Store). IT'S Crazy stuff... It will coat ANYTHING as long as it's not 'Waxed or Heavily Polished' and keep it that way FOREVER. Buy the 'Anti-UV' stuff for your application and you're more than good to go. It won't Crack, Peel, or Yellow. Even though it's an 'Epoxy' it can still be brought back to life (should it become seriously scratched or dulled by wind/sand/weather..) by using successive grades of sandpaper. A pumice stone will even bring 'easy access' surfaces to a high gloss after initial sanding...

              Cheers,

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              • #8
                you could also use a hot oil treatment

                brush on boiled linseed oil and heat with a big flame
                like a weed burner. it creates a glazed finish that can
                range in color from a light amber to a deep dark brown
                that is almost black. i think i remember seeng some
                work that was slightly blue or violet too

                there is a giuy on the hobart message board - hotfoot -
                who is a master at it. five minutes with the search tool
                should get you all you need

                post pictures when you are done

                frank

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