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  • Tool stand project

    Hello all,

    I am going to buy a tubing bender soon and didn't want to spend the $100+ for a stand. I also wanted something that could be used in multiple ways. Finally, I didn't want to take up a bunch of space when not in use.

    Here's my solution:



    I have a plate assembly that is attached to the floor. The 'reciever' actually goes into the floor an additional 3 inches. I had to bust a hole for that. I did this to have enough support and have the unit only 3" off the ground.

    I can drive/park a car over it and a tire hitting it shouldn't hurt anything. I'll paint it yellow but I'm sure I'll trip over it sooner or later.



    There's a reciever at the top as well, so I can change out those tools that need space but aren't used every day. I threw the buffer attachment together with scrap, I'll have to buy some more steel for the bender or anything else.

    Pics of welds. I tigged it. Probably overkill, but good practice.



    I'm also going to put a reciever under my welding table so it will all interchange. I'll probably make something for a vise, I could make a table extender or some sort, etc. Plenty of uses as far as I can see.

    I might even bolt my wood miter saw to an mdf top, and bolt a 'hitch' to it too.

    Thanks for looking,

    James

  • #2
    James, nice job, I like it. If I had a garage I would do the same. I like the way you can interchange everything when you need it. Sure saves a lot of space.

    I'm afraid if you hit it with a tire, you might blow out the sidewall or break some bands. You could always make some kind of ramp that goes over it, maybe use an old tire. Either way it will still be a trip hazard.
    Ken

    What else is there besides welding and riding. Besides that

    Miller Thunderbolt XL 300/200 AC/DC
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    2009 FXDC

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    • #3
      tool stand

      looks well made. if you could have it put next to the work bench it seems that it would not have taken up much space with the way its made.be sure to get that base plate painted with caution yellow. nice job.

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      • #4
        When it's not in use, stick a broom in it.
        No tripping.

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        • #5
          bust hole - how?

          Looks good, especially the base design. How did you make a hole in your concrete without making a mess that might show beyond the base?

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          • #6
            Nice welds!

            Beautiful TIG welds. What are you running for a machine?

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            • #7
              Thanks guys.

              I think it would be fine driving over it slowly. I wouldn't do it on purpose.I did consider some kind of 'hat' for it though. It's placed where it would be inside of the left rear wheel on a car parked over it.

              My welding table will be over it most of the time. I could also leave the post installed when my garage is full of projects and not cars, which is a lot.

              For the center hole in the floor I hammerdrilled five holes and started in with a chisel, then an air chisel. After a bit of frustration, the shop-vac, and more drilling I got a decent hole for the reciever tube. If I ever sell the place it will patch up nicely.

              My machine is a Dynasty 200dx.

              Other details: You can actually have two tools mounted at once if their 'tails' are kept at 5".

              The main reason for the location of this tool is the tubing bender. I wanted plenty of clearance all around for bending long tubes. It'll be nice to have the buffer out in the open too.

              I think I've seen the reciever hitch idea on this site as well as a few other places. I have a reciever on the front of my trailer for a winch mounted in the same manner.

              James

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              • #8
                James

                Hi there,I had 4500 3/16 round ss collet racks to build!,So the iron worker brake was to much power,so a 100 buck grizzly,Not saying my mounting is right,I had a 1/2 disc approx 3 ft,and tacked it down,so the guy can stand on it,and he can bend as much as the bender will take by standing on the plate.

                Then easy enough,roll it under the set up bench,,Boy,cant wait till the shop is movable into, But now were fighting with 5" of frozen Dagwood sandwith,ice,sleeet,snow,more ice,than sleet,and a nice 1/2 topping of ice!!!!!!!! And about 10 degrees with the wind chill!!!!! ,But this is New England!,,Looks Good,Thanks,Jack
                Attached Files
                Last edited by storts; 12-18-2007, 09:26 PM. Reason: same

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                • #9
                  I've often thought about the same type of floor mount.

                  One change my idea has is that you would use a latch buried inside the male tube and thus eliminate the need for an above ground lip.

                  A simple Z shaped lever engaging a hook on the opposite side would be one way to do it. Put a spring across from the bottom leg of the pivot and it would retain itself in the hole.
                  Syncrowave 250DX
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                  • #10
                    Jack: I have a bench grinder stand like that, but I don't think it would work for me. I'm getting a jd2 bender that has a long handle, I don't weigh enough anyway I think I'll be standing five feet out straining.


                    Jim: A totally underground mount would be ideal. Actually, you could fab up something really simple and sink it in the concrete if you were building a new garage shop. Sort of like those 'pull pots' they put in the floors of body shops.

                    -James

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                    • #11
                      I agree about superb workmanship, there is always the thing that its steel and can change it. If I was willing to have the plate above grade I might not have bothered to chop a hole in the floor but since I did I might be tempted to simply pour rock a receiver in flush.

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                      • #12
                        The issue with having it set in the initial pour is that your crew then has to work around it.

                        In terms of strength; yes, it would be ideal. You could even have rebar welded up and spread the load over several square feet from within the slab.

                        In terms of finish quality of your floor; maybe not so much.

                        They were working the butter a long time on the surface of my slab and the quality is excellent because of it. I think they'd be more likely to avoid hitting something embedded and you might end up with a strange consistency across the surface of the slab.

                        I could be wrong. I don't do big concrete.
                        Syncrowave 250DX
                        Invison 354MP
                        XR Control and 30A

                        Airco MED20 feeder
                        Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                        Smith O/A rig
                        And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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                        • #13
                          concrete pour

                          IANACW, but I think I know how this would be done. The receiver would be set so that it's maybe 1/8 inch below the concrete surface. stuffed with rags to keep it from filling with concrete. After the floor is finished and cured... tap, tap tap to find it, then break it out and clean it up a bit.

                          Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
                          The issue with having it set in the initial pour is that your crew then has to work around it.

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                          • #14
                            Nice - but

                            I know if I had anything like that mounted in my floor, all kinds of things would get damaged - and most likely it would be from tripping over it while carrying something heavy, awkward, and fragile. Can you say broken leg? Already done that once - was not fun.

                            However, why not just make the same receiver such that the bracing is on the underside and a 1/4" flat plate on the surface? Bash your hole in the floor, drop the "upside-down" receiver in with some wet concrete, lag it down on the 4 corners and now you have a receiver hole in the floor with 1/4" plate being the only projection. If you make the sleeve 10-12" deep, there would be no need to pin in place. And you are much less likely to trip on a flat plate lying flush. (You could even recess it if you wanted to get fancy sp the plate was completely flush) Only problem would be the need to vaccuum out all the crap that falls in once in a while.

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                            • #15
                              James

                              Originally posted by jamscal View Post
                              Jack: I have a bench grinder stand like that, but I don't think it would work for me. I'm getting a jd2 bender that has a long handle, I don't weigh enough anyway I think I'll be standing five feet out straining.


                              Jim: A totally underground mount would be ideal. Actually, you could fab up something really simple and sink it in the concrete if you were building a new garage shop. Sort of like those 'pull pots' they put in the floors of body shops.

                              -James
                              This was a quick,and only 3/16 round. The new shop will have the recievers in the floor,say 1/4" down,filled with rags,I seen a guy do it like Jim said,concrete guys get real ornery!Specially when the paddle machine hits one!When they were doing the finish,they kept wacking them,,My buddy must of had a dozen all over,,cost him more in beer to keep the crew happy!! Good luck with the JD2,,then it will be hyd. in a year,Jack

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