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  • tnjind
    started a topic lanthanated

    lanthanated

    I finally tried the lanthanated tungsten on stainless yesterday. It sharpens easier, seems to hold the point much longer and appears to provide a more stable arc. I may not use the thoriated any more.
    I am wondering about other peoples thoughts on this.

  • fun4now
    replied
    glad to help.

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  • journeyman
    replied
    fun4now

    thanks for that, I'll give it a try as soon as I can get my hands on some.

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  • griff01
    replied
    Tungsten

    Originally posted by tnjind View Post
    I finally tried the lanthanated tungsten on stainless yesterday. It sharpens easier, seems to hold the point much longer and appears to provide a more stable arc. I may not use the thoriated any more.
    I am wondering about other peoples thoughts on this.
    I am currently successfully using Lanthanted tungstens on mild steel, stainless and Aluminum. It will form ball on AC for aluminum but it is a very small ball.

    Roger

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  • fun4now
    replied
    great on low amp's

    they have excellent low amp starts.i use the 1/16" for low amp. you will really like them. Cerated might have a slight edge here (from reading its stats), but they both work so nicely i could not tell it in real life usage. as i definitely prefer the 2% lanthanated big time at higher amps and on AC i just went all Lanthanated. i just did not feel any advantage to the Cerated. i suppose if i was doing a lot of like 5amp DC welding i might look again at the cerated but with its shorter life span ....... i think lanthanated would still win out for me in the long run. but by all means give it a try, see what you like best.

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  • migman69
    replied
    i use a wheel grinder and point my tungsten like a spear seems to work fairly well

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  • Jetmekdc-10
    replied
    D-back,, Your post makes a lot of sense and explains some of my problems with consistency. Every time I grind my tungsten The arc acts slightly different. I may need to look into figuring out a way to get my angles down a little better. I grind and point my tips by hand and that very well could be my problem. Thanks, Adam

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  • journeyman
    replied
    how is the lanthanated and ceriated @ low amps for say ss?

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  • fun4now
    replied
    2% or blue holds up to heat better.

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  • tnjind
    replied
    I am using the gold, didn't know about the blue. I will have to try it.

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  • fun4now
    replied
    i add a small flat to the tung. for AC work. just sharpen it the same as you would for DC then flatten the tip just a lil bit.
    are you using 1.5% (gold) or 2% (blue)?????

    Samurai Dave makes a good point about trying it for your self. when i first started i tried all the types of tungsten to see for myself how they worked for me, then stuck with 2% lanthanated. for me its the best fit, but many like cerated better for inverters. to each his or her own. best to go with what works best for you, just don't be afraid to try some thing new. it could be just what you wanted even if you didn't know you wanted it.

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  • tnjind
    replied
    Thanks for the responses,
    I have a synchrowave 350. I welded quite a bit tonight on stainless again. The langth. is awsome, holds point much longer, seems alot more controlleable.
    I always point my tung. longways. also sharpen chisels the same way.


    Thanks, again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Samurai Dave
    replied
    One more vote for Lanthinated

    I too have standardized on Lanthinated for all TIG on my inverter-based machine. Makes reordering eletrodes a simple proposition, and I don't have to guess if that gray thing sticking out of my torch is the correct flavor for the metal I'm welding.

    On the transformer-based equipment at class, the Lanthinated didn't work so hot (for me) on mild or stainless steel, but fine on Aluminum. This was confusing for me because some guys at the local welding shop were saying Lanthinated should work fine in any machine, and I was trying to figure out if it was my rookie technique or the equipment. Usually I assumed it was not the equipment. However, just get some and try it for yourself. The one thing I have learned about welding is that you ask for advice, but try it out for yourself in your environment. If it works for you, great. If it doesn't, then you can say you tried it.

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  • SignWave
    replied
    interesting

    Originally posted by diamondback View Post

    There is alot more but this will be sufficient to consider for now.
    good to know. thanks for posting those tips. (get it? tips) sorry couldnt resist... thanks DB I look forward to more.

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  • diamondback
    replied
    same size?

    Yes the alloyed rods will carry more amps than the same sized pure tungsten. The functionality is that the alloy agents are "electron emissive oxides". That is to say they give up their valence electrons easier than the pure form of tungsten. Other benefits include: improved arc starting, arc stability, usable life increase, contamination resistance, and ability to maintain a sharpened tip longer.
    Now let's hit point geometry quickly.
    The taper or point is usable from 30 to 120 degrees depending on the degree of arc concentration required. The tip shape has a heavy effect on the depth of penetration, weld geometry and arc characteristics. A blunt electrode will have the arc wander around the end trying to establish a good path. It moves because of a cathodic reaction where resistance builds and forces the electricity to find an easier path. Keep in the back of your mind that the arc comes off of the smallest cross section of the electrode that can carry the amperage, therefore some common practices can be understood. One is blunting the tip, unless you are working with less than 10 amps you don't really need the sharp tip, it will only end up dipping into the puddle and leaving some tungsten contamination. Also when you grind the tip always grind along the axis or longitudinally to the rod to allow the electrons a smooth path. Finish it as smooth as you can as well and keep the grind even from the tip, reducing one side more than the other will make it difficult to keep proper control of the arc manipulation.

    Yes to weld aluminum with the inverters you should grind your tungsten, try some different tapers to find their different uses. One angle of taper does not fit all applications.

    There is alot more but this will be sufficient to consider for now.
    Last edited by diamondback; 12-11-2007, 09:53 AM. Reason: cover both topics

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