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  • lanthanated

    I finally tried the lanthanated tungsten on stainless yesterday. It sharpens easier, seems to hold the point much longer and appears to provide a more stable arc. I may not use the thoriated any more.
    I am wondering about other peoples thoughts on this.
    Tim Beeker,
    T-N-J Industries
    (my side bussiness)

    Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
    Esab 450i with wire feeder
    HH135 mig
    Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
    Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
    Marathon 315mm coldsaw
    vertical and horizontal band saws
    table saw
    Dewalt cut off saw
    Sand blast cabinet
    lots of hand grinders
    Harris torch
    beer fridge

  • #2
    Im no expert on the subject and Ive got a pile of ceriated elctrodes to use up, but I do have one Lanthanated point and I kinda like it too.
    Like you siad , its seems to provide a nice stable arc and for a beginner like me, I thnk thats a good start towards understanding exactly whats happening at the puddle.
    Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

    Miller 251/30A spool
    Syncro200
    Spectrum 625
    O/A
    Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
    Standard modern lathe
    Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
    horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
    Roland XC540 PRO III
    54" laminator
    hammer and screwdriver (most used)
    little dog
    pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

    Comment


    • #3
      I switched several months ago to all lanth except in .040, could'nt find it. Works good for me.
      Webb's Welding and Repair LLC
      MM210 w/a 3035 spoolgun
      Syncrowave 250
      Spectrum 625
      Trialbazer 302 w/HF
      http://webbsweldingandrepair.com/home

      Comment


      • #4
        2% lanth. is all i use. works great for AC & DC, so no problems keeping them separate after the paint comes off.
        although its debated as the the true risks of thorated, i just don't see the point of risking it when lanthanated works so well.
        i'm a big fan of the lanth. try it on some aluminum you will really like it.
        thanks for the help
        ......or..........
        hope i helped
        sigpic
        feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
        summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
        JAMES

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks to all. When I do try it on aluminum is there any need to ball it, or use it like I do the thoriated and just let it ball itself?
          Do you think it might handle a little more amps then the pure of same size?
          Tim Beeker,
          T-N-J Industries
          (my side bussiness)

          Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
          Esab 450i with wire feeder
          HH135 mig
          Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
          Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
          Marathon 315mm coldsaw
          vertical and horizontal band saws
          table saw
          Dewalt cut off saw
          Sand blast cabinet
          lots of hand grinders
          Harris torch
          beer fridge

          Comment


          • #6
            same size?

            Yes the alloyed rods will carry more amps than the same sized pure tungsten. The functionality is that the alloy agents are "electron emissive oxides". That is to say they give up their valence electrons easier than the pure form of tungsten. Other benefits include: improved arc starting, arc stability, usable life increase, contamination resistance, and ability to maintain a sharpened tip longer.
            Now let's hit point geometry quickly.
            The taper or point is usable from 30 to 120 degrees depending on the degree of arc concentration required. The tip shape has a heavy effect on the depth of penetration, weld geometry and arc characteristics. A blunt electrode will have the arc wander around the end trying to establish a good path. It moves because of a cathodic reaction where resistance builds and forces the electricity to find an easier path. Keep in the back of your mind that the arc comes off of the smallest cross section of the electrode that can carry the amperage, therefore some common practices can be understood. One is blunting the tip, unless you are working with less than 10 amps you don't really need the sharp tip, it will only end up dipping into the puddle and leaving some tungsten contamination. Also when you grind the tip always grind along the axis or longitudinally to the rod to allow the electrons a smooth path. Finish it as smooth as you can as well and keep the grind even from the tip, reducing one side more than the other will make it difficult to keep proper control of the arc manipulation.

            Yes to weld aluminum with the inverters you should grind your tungsten, try some different tapers to find their different uses. One angle of taper does not fit all applications.

            There is alot more but this will be sufficient to consider for now.
            Last edited by diamondback; 12-11-2007, 09:53 AM. Reason: cover both topics

            Comment


            • #7
              interesting

              Originally posted by diamondback View Post

              There is alot more but this will be sufficient to consider for now.
              good to know. thanks for posting those tips. (get it? tips) sorry couldnt resist... thanks DB I look forward to more.
              Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

              Miller 251/30A spool
              Syncro200
              Spectrum 625
              O/A
              Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
              Standard modern lathe
              Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
              horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
              Roland XC540 PRO III
              54" laminator
              hammer and screwdriver (most used)
              little dog
              pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

              Comment


              • #8
                One more vote for Lanthinated

                I too have standardized on Lanthinated for all TIG on my inverter-based machine. Makes reordering eletrodes a simple proposition, and I don't have to guess if that gray thing sticking out of my torch is the correct flavor for the metal I'm welding.

                On the transformer-based equipment at class, the Lanthinated didn't work so hot (for me) on mild or stainless steel, but fine on Aluminum. This was confusing for me because some guys at the local welding shop were saying Lanthinated should work fine in any machine, and I was trying to figure out if it was my rookie technique or the equipment. Usually I assumed it was not the equipment. However, just get some and try it for yourself. The one thing I have learned about welding is that you ask for advice, but try it out for yourself in your environment. If it works for you, great. If it doesn't, then you can say you tried it.
                Dynasty 200 DX
                Coolmate 3

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the responses,
                  I have a synchrowave 350. I welded quite a bit tonight on stainless again. The langth. is awsome, holds point much longer, seems alot more controlleable.
                  I always point my tung. longways. also sharpen chisels the same way.


                  Thanks, again.
                  Tim Beeker,
                  T-N-J Industries
                  (my side bussiness)

                  Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
                  Esab 450i with wire feeder
                  HH135 mig
                  Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
                  Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
                  Marathon 315mm coldsaw
                  vertical and horizontal band saws
                  table saw
                  Dewalt cut off saw
                  Sand blast cabinet
                  lots of hand grinders
                  Harris torch
                  beer fridge

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    i add a small flat to the tung. for AC work. just sharpen it the same as you would for DC then flatten the tip just a lil bit.
                    are you using 1.5% (gold) or 2% (blue)?????

                    Samurai Dave makes a good point about trying it for your self. when i first started i tried all the types of tungsten to see for myself how they worked for me, then stuck with 2% lanthanated. for me its the best fit, but many like cerated better for inverters. to each his or her own. best to go with what works best for you, just don't be afraid to try some thing new. it could be just what you wanted even if you didn't know you wanted it.
                    thanks for the help
                    ......or..........
                    hope i helped
                    sigpic
                    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
                    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                    JAMES

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I am using the gold, didn't know about the blue. I will have to try it.
                      Tim Beeker,
                      T-N-J Industries
                      (my side bussiness)

                      Miller Synchrowave 350LX with tigrunner
                      Esab 450i with wire feeder
                      HH135 mig
                      Thermal Dynamics cutmaster 51 plasma cutter
                      Miller aircrafter 330 - sold
                      Marathon 315mm coldsaw
                      vertical and horizontal band saws
                      table saw
                      Dewalt cut off saw
                      Sand blast cabinet
                      lots of hand grinders
                      Harris torch
                      beer fridge

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        2% or blue holds up to heat better.
                        thanks for the help
                        ......or..........
                        hope i helped
                        sigpic
                        feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
                        summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                        JAMES

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          how is the lanthanated and ceriated @ low amps for say ss?

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                          • #14
                            D-back,, Your post makes a lot of sense and explains some of my problems with consistency. Every time I grind my tungsten The arc acts slightly different. I may need to look into figuring out a way to get my angles down a little better. I grind and point my tips by hand and that very well could be my problem. Thanks, Adam
                            Webb's Welding and Repair LLC
                            MM210 w/a 3035 spoolgun
                            Syncrowave 250
                            Spectrum 625
                            Trialbazer 302 w/HF
                            http://webbsweldingandrepair.com/home

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              i use a wheel grinder and point my tungsten like a spear seems to work fairly well

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