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Anyone adapted the 100 series spoolgun to the 175 yet?
The BetaMig 2510 uses a M-25 gun which has the same brass end as a Spoolmate 100 . The switch kit 300409 is used to add the two wires and pins to the 4 pin trigger plug . And to splice into the wires gouing to the drive motor for power to the switch and to add power to the spoolgun and origional drive motor.
The spoolmate 185 or 3035 can also be used with the same switch kit . Basically the spoolgun lug is placed on the positive terminal, the switch kit adds voltage to the spoolgun ( 8-28 volts ) and the gas hose has to be hooked up to a gas diverter valve ( miller 195539) so you can switch between the regular mig gun or spoolgun . The valve is not needed on the spoolmate 100 setup.
As far as the gun getting shorted , the trigger wires need to be touching the welding wire . This can be caused by a gun being driven over, pulled out at the machine -by pulling machine with gun, or when it was made . The trigger wires are on the outside of the inner sheath and not near the power cable. I have in 25 years seen 3 guns shorted . Two Lincoln and one Miller . So if you think about it , thats great odds , as I am sure that there are a few hundred thousand in circulation and word would have gotten out .
The Millermatic 185 and DVI require a 207642 switch kit as they have a harness set up already . All most all mig machines use 12-28 volts to drive their drive motors the same as the spoolguns . There might be a wiring difference in some models and the reversing of the red and black wire on the switch controls which way the spoolgun drive motor turns . Its a DC motor so polarity makes it spin one direction or the other.
So I got the welder up and running this weekend, MM175 with 100 Series spoolmate. As mentioned previously, I used the switch that came with the 100 series and had to cut the wires to the drive motor, no big deal. Also had to make up the recepticals in the gun plug for the 2 additional wires. It sounds like perhaps the retrofit kit would have taken care of this. In any event. After I turned the gas on (straight argon) after the first attempt, everything worked very well. I was primarily playing with 1/8" flat bar coupons and also some 1/4" I had kicking around. I was running harbor freight 0.030 4043 wire and used a stainless wire brush (manual) for prep. On both the 1/8" and 1/4" the 175 w/ spoolmate was able to make great looking, good penetration welds with almost no spatter, tig looking at times. The process and sound was different than welding steel, but very quiet, clean, and fairly predictable. Overall a huge success. For th 1/4" and anything above I could definitely use .035 wire. The only thinner stuff I had was really too thin and with the exception of a piece of old diamond plate that was maybe 1/16" thick, I blew right through. I was able to stick the diamond plate together but not with the success of the 1/8", but I didn't play with it very long. I'm guessing I should be able to do that thickness but not much thinner based on the chart that was included with spool gun.
I am looking at purchasing the Spoolmate 100 for my Millermatic 175. I do not see any reason to purchase the Retro Fit kit as the Spoolmate 100 comes with the switch and I can build my own connections from the switch. The only connection that I am having a problem with is the 2 pins that need to be added to the trigger plug. Does anyone know if and where these pins can be purchased?
Just finished installing the Spoolmate 100 on a MM 175 with the retrofit 300409 switch and all I get is the red temp light going off whenever I switch it to the gun... everything works fine when regular gun is used... anyone have this problem before?
We do not recommend attempting to operate the Spoolmate 100 on any units other than the Millermatic 140's, 180's, 211 and Passport Plus. Installing it on any other units could result in damage to the unit and/or the Spoolmate 100 spoolgun.
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.
I suppose that warning applies to the use of ANY spoolgun, right? I've been using a Trafimet gun and control box to spray aluminum with my MM175 with no problem so far (other than the occasional birdnests, which are hard to clear with this gun).
I am not very familiar with the gun you have there but if it has it's own motor control circuitry in the control box you should be fine. The potential for damage comes into play when someone tries to utilize the motor control circuit inside the unit for something it is not designed for.
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.
A very simple and cheep diode would solve the posable feed back/ short that is being brought up. Also adding a pot with controller for about $25 from China in eBay would solve all the problems Miller is giving why not to hook this up on a mm175