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current draw for Syncrowave 250DX

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  • current draw for Syncrowave 250DX

    Hello all.

    I just purchased a Syncrowave 250DX to be used for AL and SS fabrication. The manual references the use of 125 amp fuses, but then at 100% power states the current pull will be 96 amps. I have a real old breaker panel and the breakers are VERY expensive for dual pole 125Amp (I plan on running off of 230V)

    2 questions:
    1-Does the Power Factor Correction module have any negative side effects other than the few hunderd dollars it sets you back? It seems it would help in the breaker/wire costs and may simplify my installation.

    2-If I go with 100 Amp breaker to feed Welder disconnect will I have problems. I do not plan to weld much more than 1/4" AL plate, and this not very much, primary being Sch 40 pipe (no more than 2" dia) or SS tube with no more than .12" thickness. Majority of work would be Schd 40 in 1 1/2" (.145" thick) or less size. So was thinking I really never use the full 250 power, thus be 'okay' with 100 amp

    Just looking for some real life expierience.

    Also does anyone know a good on-line source for flexible wire (to go from disconnect to 250DX)? I'd like 50'.

    Thanks for any help and looking forward to belonging to this forum.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Metalfab,

    My Syncrowave 250 is wired through a 100A breaker and I've never had a problem. For the material you're talking about, I doubt if you'll ever have a problem. At 200A output, my book shows the unit pulling about 77A. (That's at a 60% duty cycle).

    The Power Factor Correction definitely has another downside (in addition to initial cost). The unit will pull considerably more power at idle. PFC is generally used in a production environment where the machine is being operated continuiously all day long. For the average home/small shop user, the additional electric bill will outweigh the initial installation cost.

    Sorry, don't have a lead on power cable. I was lucky enough to pick up about 100 feet of 4/3 SO cable when we rewired our docks. Cable had always been in a conduit and looked brand new, even after about 10 yrs.

    Post up some sources if you find a good deal on wire.

    Hope this helps.

    Comment


    • #3
      My welder sub panel is fed with 4-3, so it's rated for 100A, as is the outlet drop from said panel. The panel is fused with a 100A breaker.

      My sync 250dx is currently living on a 60A breaker because I already had one. I've run it up to 310A and not tripped that 60A breaker, but I also didn't run it there for anywhere near its duty cycle at full power.

      You'll be fine with something smaller if you keep it below "wide open." I wired the circuit for the future, in the event I ever run into a problem with my substantially cheaper circuit protection. I can always upgrade that when it's needed.

      As long as your wiring is capable of handling the load, you can't get yourself in trouble using a smaller breaker. Worst case scenario is it will trip.

      Comment


      • #4
        a lead in the right direction

        Since I dont know where you are. Have a look at the attached link.
        Its for general cable. They supply the world with all kinds of wire and cable for every practicle purpose.

        If you want to make yourself an "extension cord" look for a flexible cable that says- or is called "SJOW" (Silicon Jacketed, Oil & Water resistant) It is available in many different gauges and if your so inclined, you could do as some of the homeless do here in vancouver and go to the nearest high rise being erected and steal the main feed for the construction crane... (just kidding...)

        heres a link and a head start:
        http://www.generalcable.com/GeneralC...ducts/Catalog/

        http://www.fouraker.com/Carol.html

        If these leads dont get you anywhere, you can find what you need (most lilekly) by calling your local electrical distributor. Westinghouse??? I dont know who supplies the US. ask for something along the lines of : "#4awg 3conductor sowj" rated for 300 volts AC - and be prepared to hold on to your shoes when they tell you the price.

        Comment


        • #5
          rocket science ..............

          I run my 250dx off of a 100 amp breaker. I have to watch my power. No laundry etc. make sure you get the right size wire and if your going to bury it make sure it's rated for outside use. when you lay the line put a 2x4 on top of it before covering. If your going to use the cheaper aluminum wire make sure you use anti-corrosion gunk on all the connection points. I also made rocket science out of it. just hook it up to a 100 amp breaker and "good to go" "good to go"............................................... ............

          Comment


          • #6
            The 100A breaker will be fine for that machine, especially modern breakers. It would run on even smaller circuits, probably 70 would be fine, run my 300 on 60 and only ever trip it once on alum. You could use a number 6 cord for this machine, some circumstances you could use 8.

            Comment


            • #7
              I just built a new shop, my 250 is on a 100 amp breaker with 6/3 feed to the plug and a 6/3 SO power cable . No problems so far, I purchased all of the wire from a local electrical supply store. IIRC the So was about $3 per foot,

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks everyone for the feedback, what a great site.

                Based on the feedback, I'm gonna go with a 100A, but for the short term 'steal' my existing 80 amp breaker (currently used for my 'auxillary heat' on the heat pump that NEVER gets used) till I figure out what I want to do with my main panel. It sounds like for my initial runs (learning on small stuff) it won't trip much if at all.

                I can't wait to get this fired up and manage my first TIG pool down a line.....Hopefully over the Thanksgiving holidays....

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by justinp61 View Post
                  I just built a new shop, my 250 is on a 100 amp breaker with 6/3 feed to the plug and a 6/3 SO power cable . No problems so far, I purchased all of the wire from a local electrical supply store. IIRC the So was about $3 per foot,
                  First, I would like to say hi as I am new to posting on this board. I have been lurking for a bit, but never posted.

                  I have similar problems I am facing with the same welder and how to wire my garage. I have told the electrician what Miller says to run (with and without power correction) and he needs more information as he is just an electrician and needs a better idea of what I want. And if I can get some ideas from you guys it would be GREAT!

                  1-I am NOT going with the power correction, so we know I will be running 6/3 on a 100amp breaker (maybe lower if you guys think its better for what I need)

                  2-I would like to run the welder from a plug so I can use the receptacle for an air compressor. I don't know if I can yet, because 100amp may not be safe to run the compressor off of. I think it runs off 50amp line if run just for the compressor. Does anyone know if this is okay? p.s. I will run them one at a time, thats why I need the plugs.

                  3-Since I want to run off a plug/receptacle where did you guys get yours? The 100amp plug/receptacles are $100-$300 each! To buy 2 for the welder and compressor is a deal breaker for me as I just dont have that kind of cash. All the other welder plugs I can find are only rated at 50amp. If thats the case, why pay more for the 100amp breaker if my plug/receptacle is only rated for 50amp?

                  I quoted you Justin because you say you run a plug. But if anyone can answer these for me it sure would help me out to tell the electrician what I want and need.

                  THANKS!

                  Comment

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