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  • #16
    Originally posted by m.k.swelding View Post
    do it the easy way and drill it a size bigger then weld it in place
    thats what welders do!!!!........they like to weld.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by con_fuse9 View Post
      On many cars the wheel is centered by the the studs. If you allow the studs to float around you will loose that. Not sure what tolerances matter, but lets just say most hubs are machined to better than .001. .001 is the kind of runout a good set of brake rotors (which sit on top of the hub) have when bolted to the hubs.

      The bolts are heat treated. You want to mess with that?

      Anyway:

      From this page: http://www.arp-bolts.com/FAQ/Answers.html

      "To determine what drill size you need for your wheel studs, you will need to know your axle/hub material and the wheel stud knurl diameter. If your axle/hub material is cast iron/steel your drill size will be .005˝ less than the knurl diameter. If your axle/hub material is aluminum, your drill size will be .007˝ less that the knurl diameter. The Wheel Studs Section in the catalog shows the knurl diameter sizes."
      If you read the OP's original post he is using wheel studs but they are NOT being used as wheel studs.

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      • #18
        That's my point.........But what is he making??
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        • #19
          Are you making a spare tire carrier?

          I had a spare tire carrier on a travel trailer and the studs were pushed through a hole and welded onto the 1/8" plate. It was made by a trailer parts place in Indianna.

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          • #20
            So in a way they are being used as wheel studs, sorta'. I put a spare tire carrier on my trailer, I tacked the studs (2) on the backside in 2 or 3 places. I used mag wheel locks because the tire is just hanging out there saying "take me". They could still take it but.....at least I'm making an attempt to keep them honest.

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            • #21
              I am using the studs instead of bolts, to mount the 1//4 x 4 in flat bar on top of the forks on a walkie stacker rated at 1500 lbs, to extend them 4 inches, in order to lift a 700 lb ATV onto pallet racks that are 48 inches high.

              The forks now reach all but about 3 inches across the bottom frame of the ATV and lift it alright but I want it to go all of the way across the frame.
              The extended 4 inches just makes me feel better about it.

              A material handling company suggested that it should be OK, since I'm lifting less than 1/2 of the load limit and I'm keeping the load close to the mast.
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