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Using an Elite Hood in sunlight

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  • Using an Elite Hood in sunlight

    Just upgraded from my trusty old Speedglas to a new Elite analog. Weather was nice today, so I was working on the pad in front of my shop. I was surprised that the sunlight made it almost impossible to get the filter to work right - if I bumped the sensitivity towards max, it wouldn't darken, if I turned it back down towards the mid setting, it would stay dark. Finally moved the work inside - seemed OK then. Other Elite owners have the same experience? My SpeedGlas (fixed 11 shade) never seemed that sensitive to ambient light. Maybe I shoulda sprung the extra for a Digital Elite..



    Elite Digital Hood (2007)
    Syncro200 Runner (2007)
    HyperTherm Max20 (1992)
    Century 83110 (1990)
    SpeedGlas fixed (1988)
    Linde 230 w/DC/HF/TIG (1977)
    Sears Craftsman Industrial O/A (1967)
    What - me worry???

  • #2
    I am always getting comments about being in the dark ages and being old school, how I need to come into the times and get an auto dark lens.

    Welp, with all the stories and problems I've experienced and have heard about with these lenses, I'll stay in the stone ages with my trusty old Jackson hood and my fixed shade lens. I aint never had a problem with them yet! Dave
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

    Comment


    • #3
      i weld inside and out with mine. i dont know of a digital miller hood. mine is also the elite. anyways, i look into the lens and adjust the sensitivity until it turns dark, then turn it back until it gets light, and then just a hair more. kinda like adjusting valves on an old chevy. make sure your delay is at 0
      welder_one

      nothing fancy, just a few hot glue guns for metal
      www.sicfabrications.com

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      • #4
        I also have an elite. I love it. elite helmets have a 30% larger window and I don't have to move my head before I strike an arc. I couldn't imagine using old school after using the elite helmet.
        Syncro250DX Tigrunner
        Victor set
        Elite auto-helmet
        Dewalt Bench grinder
        Mastercraft miter saw
        Mac air tools
        Mac hand tools
        Toothbrush
        pencil
        toilet paper

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        • #5
          The Digital Elite ( http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...ital-elite.php ) has been out for a little while. The only real difference I saw was that along with the digital controls, it has magnetic field sensors along with the optical ones. Apparently you can crank the optical sensitivity way down and it'll darken on a near EMF field. The only caution on that was the problem with working too close to another welder. I do like the Elite's view size - I wear bifocals and still haven't put the cheaters in from my SpeedGlas. Only other b***h I've got is the headgear isn't big enough for me to wear a ball cap and still use the extra "comfort cushion" on the back of the band. Had to dig out the old beanie...



          Elite Digital Hood (2007)
          Syncro200 Runner (2007)
          HyperTherm Max20 (1992)
          Century 83110 (1990)
          SpeedGlas fixed (1988)
          Linde 230 w/DC/HF/TIG (1977)
          Sears Craftsman Industrial O/A (1967)
          What - me worry???

          Comment


          • #6
            Using an Elite in sunlight

            Hi Kide,

            I work in the helmet department at Miller Electric and would like to help you get your Elite set correctly for your conditions.

            Welder_One's response on how to adjust the sensitivity is correct. The procedure that he outlined is exactly what we would have suggested you try. If you just recently bought your Elite, it most likely has Grind-Mode in it. When you turn the sensitivity all the way up, the lens enters Grind-Mode and the lens will not darken so be careful that you do not enter Grind-Mode while adjusting your helmet for welding.

            As Welder_one mentioned, point your helmet towards your work piece and turn the sensitivity up until the lens darkens. Once it darkens, turn the sensitivity back just a little until it lightens, and then turn it up just a little bit(but not enough for it to darken again). This should keep the sensors from reacting to the ambient sunlight and be the best way to set up your helmet for any welding that you do.

            Please let us know if you have any other questions about the helmet and we will help any way we can.

            Thank You,
            MillerHelmet
            Eric Sommers
            Product Specialist
            Miller Electric Mfg Co

            Comment


            • #7
              MillerHelmet:
              Thanks for the reply.. I won't have a chance to run through things again until the weather gets better (forecast is rain/snow and colder, so I'll probably be working inside most of the time for the next few days). As noted previously, this isn't my first auto-dark helmet and yup, I'm aware of the Grind mode not darkening. The only thing I can attribute it to is a combination of very bright (noon time) sunlight and fairly low amperage (60-80 amp) MIG causing the correct range of sensitivity to be very narrow, maybe because of the four sensors, versus one on my old one.. I was setting the sensitivity pointed at the work, but even that was pretty bright in the sunlight. Just not what I expected after the upgrade from the single shade SpeedGlas, which I left on automatic most of the time, even when working on jobs outside..



              Elite Digital Hood (2007)
              Syncro200 Runner (2007)
              HyperTherm Max20 (1992)
              Century 83110 (1990)
              SpeedGlas fixed (1988)
              Linde 230 w/DC/HF/TIG (1977)
              Sears Craftsman Industrial O/A (1967)
              What - me worry???

              Comment


              • #8
                Update...

                Just to update, I was given the opportunity to update from the Elite to the Elite Digital (Thanks, Miller and my LWS, Purity Gas). The X-Mode has resolved the issues I was having - I can run low amperage in direct sunlight with no problems. Since this won't be used in an environment with other machines running in the same work area, I'm not sure if I'll need to use it in any other mode. I'd add that I really like the controls placed below the lens rather than above it, don't have to fumble through the head gear to make a change.. Only other change I'd make is to make the head band open a little farther, as I wear a 7 7/8 hat and with a cap on, you can't use the "comfort cushion" pad.



                Elite Digital Hood (2007)
                Syncro200 Runner (2007)
                HyperTherm Max20 (1992)
                Century 83110 (1990)
                SpeedGlas fixed (1988)
                Linde 230 w/DC/HF/TIG (1977)
                Sears Craftsman Industrial O/A (1967)
                What - me worry???

                Comment

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