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your absolutely right lol i cut the side welds and got the top flat and now my holes dont match.
i may do something along the lines of Desertrider's advice and cut the whole middle section out then get my plates to on the 2 outside peices of tube then put the middle tube back in but weld some 1x1 3/16 angle to support it like so.
This is the best idea so far, you could had 2 more pieces of HSS or angle iron on the open end to stiffen the ends up. When welding small materials less weld is better then to much. And never weld square tubing across the face, it becomes a weak point afterward, when you joint two pieces of HSS you should weld only the joint along the corners Less warpage and weak point that way
Pre heat is good.
By pre-stress I mean trying to anticipate the warping of a tube or plates your welding together and tacking them up with a slight bend in to them.
Sometimes I think to much ahead and my head is there before my legs and I end up with my head hitting the ground
well i thought the plates weren't warped all that bad but i'm wrong.
i tried flipping the plate over and bolting it down and then putting a bottle jack under the plate on the angle at the bottom of the frame and pressing it that way but doesn't seem to be doing anything in straightening the plate out. *shown in first picture*
I have one of the propane soldering torch would it be easier to heat the middle up with it to straighten it out? *shown in the 2nd picture*
You won't get it nearly hot enough with that. Heck, those things barely get hot enough to sweat 3/4" copper.
There are two ways to deal with distortion. You can be proactive or reactive. Since the crooked ship has already set sail, you are relegated to being reactive, unless you decide to scrap it and start again.
Unfortunately, undoing distortion is a lot more difficult than preventing it. Now that everything is welded together, you have a structure that is statically indeterminate to the unteenth degree. As they said with the "every action has a reaction" statement, any load you place at any point in any direction will cause some deflection everywhere. The key to being able to straighten distortion is knowing where to bend so to maximize the desired deflection and cancel unwanted deflection.
It's like chess, or Rubik's cube, or tuning a piano, the first move may make things worse, but it's the sum of all the moves that determines where you end up, and you have to think a half dozen moves ahead.
One option is the use of a porta power. It's a real lifesaver. But in all honesty, it will be much easier for you to start over and be proactive in distortion control than it will be for you to learn frame straightening from scratch.
80% of failures are from 20% of causes Never compromise your principles today in the name of furthering them in the future. "All I ever wanted was an honest week's pay for an honest day's work." -Sgt. Bilko "We are generally better persuaded by reasons we discover ourselves than by those given to us by others." -Pascal "Since we cannot know all that there is to be known about anything, we ought to know a little about everything." -Pascal
I have one of the propane soldering torch would it be easier to heat the middle up with it to straighten it out?
That propane torch is almost useless in the world of welding, except to heat up a cup of coffee!
Seems, as your tool arsenal is a little light, do you have a hacksaw? If so go back to post # 9, see how I said to heat shrink those tubes? Well now take your hacksaw and cut that red area out! Well not that much! But cut a small one-sided wedge out of the tubes and force the middle of the table frame down.
If you can get around someone who has an O/A torch I’ll show you how to straighten that plate, but the propane torch won’t touch it!
These are "my" views based only on “my” experiences in “my” little bitty world.