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warped table frame

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  • #31
    Originally posted by andyman View Post
    your absolutely right lol i cut the side welds and got the top flat and now my holes dont match.

    i may do something along the lines of Desertrider's advice and cut the whole middle section out then get my plates to on the 2 outside peices of tube then put the middle tube back in but weld some 1x1 3/16 angle to support it like so.
    This is the best idea so far, you could had 2 more pieces of HSS or angle iron on the open end to stiffen the ends up. When welding small materials less weld is better then to much. And never weld square tubing across the face, it becomes a weak point afterward, when you joint two pieces of HSS you should weld only the joint along the corners Less warpage and weak point that way
    Good luck

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by Daniel View Post
      you should weld only the joint along the corners Less warpage and weak point that way


      Until you run into one of these!
      Attached Files

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Sonora Iron View Post
        Until you run into one of these!
        What I mean is welding 1 HSS to another HSS at 90 degree, you should'nt weld across the face of the one your connecting, only on 2 sides along the corner.
        You know what I mean ?

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Daniel View Post
          What I mean is welding 1 HSS to another HSS at 90 degree, you should'nt weld across the face of the one your connecting, only on 2 sides along the corner.
          You know what I mean ?

          No not sure I do! You mean like this? Weld at the green arrow, not the red?
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #35
            What does High Speed Steel have to do with making a welding table out of mild steel square tube ??

            If you only weld on 2 sides of the tube, the joint is half as strong as the tube...

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by Sonora Iron View Post
              No not sure I do! You mean like this? Weld at the green arrow, not the red?

              Yes, that's the one

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Desertrider33 View Post
                What does High Speed Steel have to do with making a welding table out of mild steel square tube ??

                If you only weld on 2 sides of the tube, the joint is half as strong as the tube...
                HSS means Hollow Structural Square.

                On a small table like that there's no need to weld it all around.
                Like I said the less weld the better,time wise and for saving materials.
                And plus you save yourself warping headaches

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Daniel View Post
                  Yes, that's the one
                  I agree with you that on a small table like this welding all the way around is not necessary, but like in my earlier post sometimes the drawings will call for it. Then what do you do?

                  In my opinion you put any kind of heat inside the red circle, tube A will bend up. To what degree depends on how much heat you apply.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    One method would be pre-stress.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Daniel View Post
                      One method would be pre-stress.
                      Pre-stress or pre-heat?

                      If you mean pre-heat I like that! That is thinking about 4 steps ahead of yourself, most weldors can’t think 1 step ahead of them selves unless it’s what they’re going to have for lunch!

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Sonora Iron View Post
                        Pre-stress or pre-heat?

                        If you mean pre-heat I like that! That is thinking about 4 steps ahead of yourself, most weldors can’t think 1 step ahead of them selves unless it’s what they’re going to have for lunch!
                        You're a cynical old coot . . . man after my own heart . . . and "old" because you're older than me, welding tubing 50+ years ago.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Pre heat is good.
                          By pre-stress I mean trying to anticipate the warping of a tube or plates your welding together and tacking them up with a slight bend in to them.
                          Sometimes I think to much ahead and my head is there before my legs and I end up with my head hitting the ground

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            need some more ideas

                            well i thought the plates weren't warped all that bad but i'm wrong.

                            i tried flipping the plate over and bolting it down and then putting a bottle jack under the plate on the angle at the bottom of the frame and pressing it that way but doesn't seem to be doing anything in straightening the plate out. *shown in first picture*

                            I have one of the propane soldering torch would it be easier to heat the middle up with it to straighten it out? *shown in the 2nd picture*

                            Andy
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              You won't get it nearly hot enough with that. Heck, those things barely get hot enough to sweat 3/4" copper.

                              There are two ways to deal with distortion. You can be proactive or reactive. Since the crooked ship has already set sail, you are relegated to being reactive, unless you decide to scrap it and start again.

                              Unfortunately, undoing distortion is a lot more difficult than preventing it. Now that everything is welded together, you have a structure that is statically indeterminate to the unteenth degree. As they said with the "every action has a reaction" statement, any load you place at any point in any direction will cause some deflection everywhere. The key to being able to straighten distortion is knowing where to bend so to maximize the desired deflection and cancel unwanted deflection.

                              It's like chess, or Rubik's cube, or tuning a piano, the first move may make things worse, but it's the sum of all the moves that determines where you end up, and you have to think a half dozen moves ahead.

                              One option is the use of a porta power. It's a real lifesaver. But in all honesty, it will be much easier for you to start over and be proactive in distortion control than it will be for you to learn frame straightening from scratch.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Originally posted by andyman View Post
                                I have one of the propane soldering torch would it be easier to heat the middle up with it to straighten it out?
                                That propane torch is almost useless in the world of welding, except to heat up a cup of coffee!

                                Seems, as your tool arsenal is a little light, do you have a hacksaw? If so go back to post # 9, see how I said to heat shrink those tubes? Well now take your hacksaw and cut that red area out! Well not that much! But cut a small one-sided wedge out of the tubes and force the middle of the table frame down.

                                If you can get around someone who has an O/A torch I’ll show you how to straighten that plate, but the propane torch won’t touch it!

                                Comment

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