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  • #16
    Removable Teeth for bucket

    Started putting The removable teeth in the bucket I built a while back the center tooth on back order hope to get it soon.
    Vernon
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    • #17
      for a 12 in. bucket

      you did a great job, i like the flare it has on the tooth edge, nice welding and fabbing but im sure the operater will appreciate the design, perfect for cutting sharp, perfect corners without re positioning, nice work kevin

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      • #18
        No offense to your design, I like it alot, but shouldnt there be a leading edge or a cutting edge on the sides where the teeth bolt on? Since the teeth are coming straight out, you are using the flat edge to do the digging on the sides of the bucket? Just a thought, I thought I always seen a cutting edge along the leading sides and down below where the teeth are. However, nice looking bucket either way. Good job.

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        • #19
          Edge on Bucket

          Originally posted by dj722000 View Post
          No offense to your design, I like it alot, but shouldnt there be a leading edge or a cutting edge on the sides where the teeth bolt on? Since the teeth are coming straight out, you are using the flat edge to do the digging on the sides of the bucket? Just a thought, I thought I always seen a cutting edge along the leading sides and down below where the teeth are. However, nice looking bucket either way. Good job.
          Seem to cut fine here in southwest Ohio maybe not elsewhere but work just fine here in a clay like base, I do see your point. I lived in south florida before and I'm sure it would need a edge on bucket their. Alot of coral rock in south Florida.
          Vernon

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          • #20
            I'm speaking from the viewpoint, of somebody who's been doing larger excavator buckets for years.

            First off, the curved side pieces ... this is absolutely the right thing to do, you get maximum strength and the least stress, as the bucket is digging into the ground.

            For the big buckets, I normally use 1044/1045 blades, straight up from the bottom blade, about six inches or so, then straight up to the top of the bucket. No curve, unless a guy had huge amounts of work to do like this, the overhead and waste would be prohibitive.

            If a guy wants an edge, simply run a fairly cheap hardfacing along the outside of the leading edge, you will get an inside bevel soon enough.

            Points??? We ALWAYS, tilt the outside teeth outwards, so they cut slightly wider, than the size of the bucket. Yes, they wear faster, but it's always easy to move move outside points to the middle, and replace the outsides with new points. Also easy to swap, the right and left outside points.

            Just one other point ..... generally, when I build or modify a bucket, I like to make it usable both ways, either as a bucket, or as a shovel. Sometimes, you just can't get into a hole the traditional excavator way, a guy needs a shovel. Easy to do, as long as you can still get full stroke, most times only takes another 1/4" or so clearance.

            REMEMBER, of course, my experience is based upon certain customers, that do certain types of jobs, in certain kinds of soil.
            Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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            • #21
              I would also like to mention, those HUGE nuts and bolts, in the last few pictures. I would suggest counter-sunk screws, flush on the outside for sandy soil, flush on the inside for clay soils.
              Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

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              • #22
                Ditto what JSFAB said about angling the outside teeth wider than the bucket. One question, Why the bolt on/off attachment for the teeth? So you can dig without any?? Also you may have been better off welding on shanks to install replaceable teeth, it would save a lot of work down the road. But nice fab work just the same!
                Miller Syncrowave 200
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