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Anodized Aluminum........help ! ...........

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  • #16
    Dustyhaze,

    Check out TACO metals. They have a great website and distributors all over the US and I believe in Canada. We get all our anodized aluminum from them (marine applications). In answer to the question about what to do with the weld area (cleaned of anodizing), you paint the area with silver colored rustoleum or (as mentioned) Sheffield aluminum colored paint. (Sheffield has better pot life than Rustoleum).

    If you decide to go with a non-anodized aluminum, you may want to contact Strataglas in Ft Lauderdale, FL. They offer a product called Clear Coat which we've found to do a great job of protecting aluminum structures in the marine environment.

    Powder coating the part may be a better option than painting. Do you have a powder coating operation in your area. Just a thought.

    Let us know which way you go.
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    • #17
      I thot about posting TACO but didn't realize they were in places other than FL

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      • #18
        Hi Dusty, how goes the battle? Something i was thinking about today as the aluminum boat was coming apart. If you can, use stainless hardware on the bolt up parts for your rack.. Steel or copper, or zinc or brass do not mix well with aluminum. Corosion is accelerated due to the difference in potential that exists within the different metal types(electrolylisis). Stainless is not affected and it doesnt cause the aluminum to go to powder.
        Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

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        • #19
          SignWave,

          Wrong answer.

          Stainless steel in direct contact with aluminum will cause accelerated oxidation of the aluminum.

          I work in the marine industry and deal with the effects of dissimilar metals nearly every day. There are nylon washer/spacers made to isolate the two from each other. I'd be happy to go into more detail about how some of the quality marine manufacturers go to great pains to guard against galvanic corrosion but I don't think this is the place.

          In several of your other posts I note that you tend to make "profound" statements about a multitude of subjects which you seemingly know little about. I don't post as much as many on here, but, when I do, you can be assured that I have data to back up my statements.
          Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
          Dynasty 200 DX
          Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
          Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
          Hobart HH187
          Dialarc 250 AC/DC
          Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
          Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
          PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
          Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
          Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
          More grinders than hands

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          • #20
            Okay Sundowner,
            you're right and I am wrong. I am sorry for the error. It seems that I was reading my table incorrectly. I had crossed up base metal and fastener metals oops. lets chalk it up to dislexia and poorly illustrated diagrams.

            I still feel that stainless is a permissible fastener though.I suppose it would depent on the grade of stainless. Austenitic stainless, would only marginaly increase corosion of the base and that could take years to actually be seen -or not,but Martensitic would most likely chew a hole in the base metal.I have used stainless for a number of years without problems (316 & 18-8). Perhaps there has been little corrsion due to the fact that there is little contact with an electrolite? this is the only reason that i can think of or maybe it had to do with the amount of surface area?? Im not sure.. I have used them in a marine enviro, I see them on aircraft, and on commercial structures. They stay clean looking for a number of years when other fasteners turn ugly and unsigthly.

            And as well, I take offense to a public slagging I wouldnt do it to you. So why do you feel that you have to do it me?

            Sorry Dusty, I guess i got it wrong, But stainless looks good and I see alot of racks down here with stainless. Maybe next time I inspect one up close, I'll do a double check just to make sure they're not plated fasteners and im not losing my mind.
            Last edited by SignWave; 10-22-2007, 02:09 AM.
            Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

            Miller 251/30A spool
            Syncro200
            Spectrum 625
            O/A
            Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
            Standard modern lathe
            Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
            horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
            Roland XC540 PRO III
            54" laminator
            hammer and screwdriver (most used)
            little dog
            pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

            Comment


            • #21
              Sign Wave,

              I apologize for the way I "came down" on you. After going back and reading your posting, I now realize I was too harsh.

              With all that said, I do agree that stainless fasteners are the best option for this application. Not perfect, but the best option. Proper selection of grade (316 preferred) and bedding compound will further enhance durability.

              I'd also like to add that my previous response was partially motivated by a degree of frustration I get from reading other postings on this message board. Some of the more experienced guys do not post as much as some of the "internet welding experts". As an example, in another posting, one of the better TIG welders on this board (Engloid) had his recommendations shot down/criticized by a few posters who, I guarantee, can't hold a candle to Engloid's TIG experience. In fact, I'd venture to guess that he's forgotten more about tig than they'll ever know.

              The new guy coming on the board with questions seldom has the experience to differentiate between good advice and bad advice. That's why he asked the question to begin with. He therefore looks at a poster's post count and says "this guy posts a lot, must know what he's talking about". Not really a good gauge. I'm not putting you in that category but I think you can understand where I'm coming from.

              I'm not a "professional welder" (never relied on welding to put food on the table), but I have been welding for over 50 years (Stick, O/A, MIG, TIG--dad ran a body shop when I was growing up). I am an engineer (Civil & Industrial) who's also had the good fortune to have been around some of "the best welders" in their respective fields. While I do not consider myself a professional welder, my welding is.

              By the way, I've never been known for having a lot of "tact". Guess some of that comes from 20+ years in the military working in the Spec. Ops. arena.

              Enough of this rant.

              Hope you have a great day.
              Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
              Dynasty 200 DX
              Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
              Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
              Hobart HH187
              Dialarc 250 AC/DC
              Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
              Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
              PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
              Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
              Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
              More grinders than hands

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              • #22
                Much appreciated Sundowner. Thanks for the apology. I dont claim to know everything, nor do I want to sound as if I do, but i do however know what I know. If that makes any common sence..? I post alot because I work mostly at a computer and I enjoy this "place". When My machines are set and cutting or printing, their isnt much else to do while supervising the operations, so I cruise about the site and look for stuff to comment on.. And I have seen Engloids work. I am truly amazed by his handywork. In fact something he mentioned got me thinking how the h-ll???? how is it possible to weld something so small that its barely a 16th of an inch around. incredible.

                By the way SD, I respect the fact that you've been at this game longer than Ive been alive. Ive been a journeyman electrician for about 14 years now. (deosnt seem like much when you think about it but 14 years it is...) My ticket has taken me to some awesome places.. Ive been on military bases, airforce bases (special civilian clearances issued) , Ive worked on multimillion dollar yachts installing every spec of bloody wiring and equipment you could ever think of.. (what a nightmare), and ive done the more common stuff too.
                Ive seen alot of stuff in the last few years, Even motion pictures (the land of everything fake...) Anyway, were all human, we all make mistakes. we all (hopefully) learn from them, and we are all here together.

                Thanks again for the apology.
                Will it weld? I loooove electricity!

                Miller 251/30A spool
                Syncro200
                Spectrum 625
                O/A
                Precix 5x10 CNC Router12"Z
                Standard modern lathe
                Cheap Chinese mill that does the trick... sort of...
                horizontal 7x12 bandsaw
                Roland XC540 PRO III
                54" laminator
                hammer and screwdriver (most used)
                little dog
                pooper scooper (2nd most used...)

                Comment


                • #23
                  thanks for all the posts. I got the help I was looking for.
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                  • #24
                    316 stainless

                    316 stainless is least susceptible to salt water corrosion.
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                    Syncro250DX Tigrunner
                    Victor set
                    Elite auto-helmet
                    Dewalt Bench grinder
                    Mastercraft miter saw
                    Mac air tools
                    Mac hand tools
                    Toothbrush
                    pencil
                    toilet paper

                    Comment

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