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Y'all talked me into a mm210, now I need....

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  • Y'all talked me into a mm210, now I need....

    First, thanks to everybody for some useful advice on picking a machine. I'm just getting into welding, decided on a mm210
    Now I need some more advice on some other items. Specifically a decent angle grinder and a chop-saw. Any ideas on the best places to purchase, brands, models etc? Also, anything else that i'll absolutely need & might not have anticipated.
    I don't have a cutting torch, hoping to get by with just the saw & grinder for a while, hopefully next year I can get a smaller plasma unit.
    Thanks again.

  • #2
    I have two 4 1/2" angle grinders from Sears, they are Dewalts in Sears colors about 80 bucks each. I have one with a hard wheel and one with a flapper disc. I also use a 4x6 Harbor Freight bandsaw, good deal for 169 bucks and it won't wake the neighbors like a chop saw...Bob
    Bob Wright

    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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    • #3
      Depending on youre finances you might want to look into a small metal band saw instead of a chop saw. They are quieter, cleaner and more acurate. A little more money but well worth it n my opinion, although there are some who swear by their chop saws. As far as angle grinders , mine is a Makita 4 1/2" and I'm quite satisfied with it. Any name brand should do good but I like a trigger I can lock on.Also you want to avoid a cheaper , under powered unit even if it is a name brand.I would look at their higher end models, you'l be happy you did, or should I say if you dont youwill soon find out why you should have.
      Bob : It looks like we had the same thought on the band saw. Hah
      Last edited by burninbriar; 03-10-2006, 03:00 PM.
      To all who contribute to this board.
      My sincere thanks , Pete.

      Pureox OA
      Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
      Miller Syncrowave 250
      Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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      • #4
        I got a Mekitta brand 14" chop saw at Harber fraight and , was kinda skepical,
        the girl at HF said it was new not referbushed and I looked at the other stores and checked it out, same model# and new in the box for alot less in price 187.00 and it works great. sometimes the things at harber fraight are not good quality but this time same as everyone else but best price.

        as far as angel grinders . I belive you need to go to Home Depo and look. they have a their grinders on display where you can pick them up and look at them. then you can select the best amprige and price for your budget. but I would stay with one of the better well know brands of tools.
        I do not recamend the angle grinders from Harber Fraight...cheep
        in angle grinders you will find that they have alot of styles to chose from with the on/off switch in diffrent places , you need to see witch switch style-location you like. also get a 4&1/2" angle grinder with 5/8"corse thread shaft... they have more avalible discs, cup brushes, & accesories avalible for them than others.
        I hope all this helps. I belive you are doing the correct thing by asking and talking to people before making a perches.
        sorry about the spelling

        Richard

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        • #5
          Chop saw .

          I own both a chop saw and a bandsaw , a chop saw works great on material under 3/16" but thicker than that I have had problems with the wheels glazing over and refusing to cut , and they are dirty as heck .You can find a 4 x 6 bandsaw at Tractor Supply Company or similar store for a reasonable price . I bought a Clarke there and it has been a good saw . As for a angle grinder , I like the Metabo 4 1/2" grinder , it has plenty of power and a quick change nut . I you only have one grinder ,using the spanner wrenches all the time is a pain in the you know what . They are a little more than the dewalts and the like , but worth every penny extra .You can find them on Ebay for reasonable prices . Some one suggested going to Home depot , I would suggest you look in the Yellow Pages for a Industrial supply house in your area ( Fastenal is one ) and check and see what they have . I have four different places I buy power tools and most of the salesmen remember me , so if I have a problem with the tool they try to help me out . A few extra dollars spent at a local business can save a lot of hassle latter .
          Last edited by Lu47Dan; 03-10-2006, 07:02 PM.
          Tools to Men are like Shoes to Women you can never have too many .
          Miller XMT-304
          Miller Spectrum 2050
          Miller 10-E Feeder
          Hobart 175 Handler
          Lincoln AC225
          And assorted others

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Lu47Dan
            A few extra dollars spent at a local business can save a lot of hassle latter .
            Not to mention it can go along way to help save a local buisness.
            To all who contribute to this board.
            My sincere thanks , Pete.

            Pureox OA
            Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
            Miller Syncrowave 250
            Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

            Comment


            • #7
              portable bandsaw

              Originally posted by aametalmaster
              I also use a 4x6 Harbor Freight bandsaw, good deal for 169 bucks and it won't wake the neighbors like a chop saw...Bob

              I was just looking at my Harbor Freight sales paper and they have a 2 speed portable bandsaw on sale for $69.00, regular $139.00. Sale ends 3-27

              Tom

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              • #8
                Cutting and Grinding Tools

                First of all, get yourself a decent face shield, ear muffs and work gloves because you'll need them! And a good respirator or particle mask. And keep them near your equipment where you'll be more likely to use them--and USE them all the time! Your body will thank you for it. As I tell my employees or students: a dead or injured employee is a non-productive employee! (ie: trip to the hospital, time off healing, etc.) Pay attention to bystanders and have them leave or put on protective gear--you are responsible for their safety.

                For grinders I use a Makita, Milwaukee and yes, a Harbor Freight ($9.99 on sale), all 4-1/2" machines with 5/8" lockable threaded shafts. Since I am used to a bare wheel, none of them have the guard installed. You may want to keep your guard on until you get used to using a grinder. To tighten a wheel, I'll hold the shaft lock button and spin and tighten the wheel with my hand--you probably wont ever need your wrenches. Do this with the grinder unplugged, just in case. Never use the trigger to "power" a threaded wheel on because you'll never get it off! Don't use a chipped wheel or one that vibrates excessively because they could explode! I use a 120 blending wheel and seperate wheels for steel and aluminum. The HF grinder works pretty good for the price and replaced a 5-year-old HF after it puked. I made the mistake of buying a Homier grinder--what a P.O.S.! It started smoking after I plugged it in and that was enough for me.

                A bench grinder can also come in handy. 6" would be the minimum size and you can probably get one for $40 or less on sale. Remove one of the wheels and mount a wire brush and you should be all set. The same warning about chips and vibration applies--don't use--it is not worth the trip to the hospital. I have three bench grinders, one with grinding wheels, one with a wire brush and buffing pad and one with two flavors of deburring wheels: fine and medium. The deburring wheels are the cat's meow but are very pricey at around $60 EACH! They do last a long time and are indespensable for alum. and other soft metals. They'll also polish steel to a mirror-like finish.

                For cutting steel and stainless I use either a Milwaukee 14" chop saw, a MSC larger horz. band saw with cooling/lube pump (3/4" blade, for precision cuts) or a Hobart plasma cutter (for curved or angled cuts). The oxy-acetylene torch also gets used on occasion--usually for the dirtier cutting work. I had a Harb. Freight horz. band saw as others have mentioned here and it lasted about a year before the blade started popping off and that is after replacing some of the bearings. If I put too much pressure the blade would pop off. I adjusted and shimmed and did all sorts of stuff to it and could never get it perfect. The MSC saw (or comparible, Enco for example) cuts fine and goes for around $600 new.

                For alum. I use a slightly older Delta 10" miter saw that does not tilt sideways so the fence is a little beefier. I use 8" carbide tipped blades that happen to be "take-offs" from a machine I produce so they are free. I've tried the "special" aluminum/plastic blades with the lube and they suck and dull quickly. The only problem with carbide is the blade can heat up and the braze holding the carbides on will soften and the carbides will come off possibly ruining your cut. And carbide is not for steel. You could probably use a fiber metal-cutting blade commonly available in your local hardware store for cutting steel. Body protection is a must because metal flies all over the place and at a very high velocity. A basic "beater" miter saw will set you back under $100. My Delta is going on six years cutting mainly aluminum but I know some people who have not been as lucky with their machines cutting metal. The plasma cutter also gets used on occasion for curvy cuts of aluminum.

                I also use a belt sander (Enco 6"x48", about $200) with 80grit and have a "back-up" Ryobi 4"x36" (about $100). I don't use the round wheels on the side of either--just the belts. A typical finishing routine would be grinder, belt sander, deburring wheel.

                For cordless tools I have been using Ryobi 18v drills, drivers, flashlights and saws (circular and riciprocating) for years and have nothing but praise for them!

                Some other equipment you might consider: drill press, air compressor, material stands, hand deburring blades, Scotchbrite pads, etc. Hope this helps... Bob
                Last edited by mccutter; 03-12-2006, 02:22 AM. Reason: added more info
                TA Arcmaster 185 w/TIG/Stick Kit
                MM210 w/3535 Frankengun
                MM140 w/o AS w/SM100 & CO2
                Hobart (Miller) 625 Plasma
                Hobart 250ci Plasma
                Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
                Lincoln Patriot Autodark (freebie)
                .45ACP Black Talons for those difficult jobs

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