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Trying to fix warped wedling table

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  • Trying to fix warped wedling table

    So I picked up a used 4'x8' welding table for $50 from a pre-fabbed barn manufacturer going out of business. It is made of 1/2" plate, galvanized on the top with a frame made mostly of 2" x 3/16 sq. tube. I welded on plates for casters on the corners and installed retractable screw supports on the center two legs. Then I discovered that the center of the table top is higher than the ends. It is kind of hump backed with the center about .20" higher than the ends. I'd like to find a way to restore it to flatness.

    I'm guessing that the frame assembly is somewhat responsible for the warped top. Take a look at the photos. I'm considering gouging out the welds holding the top to the frame with a plasma cutter, except for the ones in the center of the table, to see if the ends of the top spring up. There are about 36 1" to 2" welds I'd have to eliminate. Later, I could even play an O/A rosebud flame under the center of the top to see if that forces it in the desired direction. If those methods work, I would shim between the top and the frame as necessary and reweld.

    I'm alternatively considering severing some of lower parts of the frame to see if weld shrinkage in that area has bowed the top. At least one of the lower connectors was welded with a gap (see photo). Or maybe there's another option I haven't considered yet. Your suggestions are appreciated.
    Attached Files
    Miller XMT-350 CC/CV
    Miller S-22A wirefeeder
    Bernard 400A "Q" gun
    Miller 30-A Spoolmatic w/WC-24
    CK 210 & WP-18 GTAW torches
    Hypertherm Powermax 30
    O/A Rig, Enco 4x6 bandsaw, etc.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Dmaxer View Post
    I could even play an O/A rosebud flame under the center of the top to see if that forces it in the desired direction.

    Dont do that!
    That is opposite of where you need to apply the heat!
    Place the heat on the crown of the hump. Id remove the gap in the frame first, then look at adding a center support in the frame.
    Caution!
    These are "my" views based only on my experiences in my little bitty world.

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    • #3
      I would seriously consider cutting the top completely loose and flipping it over.

      By cutting it loose you will find out what is really going on. You are not gonna staighten it if it is welded together wrong. That doesn't happen on sheet metal, let alone 1/2" plate.
      If you was to heat it to bring the top down without cutting the frame loose it will most likely bend the frame some when it comes back flat...that metal has to go somewhere. And that's providing the frame was square in the first place. I'm betting it was all the perimeter welds that BOWED it in the first place, which is a common rookie mistake. Most flat tables have very little welding done on them. You can lay one decent weld and lay a staightedge down and watch it warp as it cools almost anywhere you do it.
      I would attempt to get it almost flat while loose and then let a couple of tacks to the frame do the rest for me.
      If the bottom isn't galvanized (?) flipping it would be a good thing in my mind.

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      • #4
        [QUOTE=FusionKing;197725]that metal has to go somewhere. QUOTE]
        Contraction!

        When the heated zone cools, those little molecules in the steel get closer and closer and closer! Kind of like a group hug.
        Caution!
        These are "my" views based only on my experiences in my little bitty world.

        Comment


        • #5
          If it is warped from welding the perimeter you won't bring it back by heating the middle.
          It ain't gonna happen! BTDT, you will end up with a wavy POS. You need to UNDO what is wrong with it.
          You may make it close enuff tho...myself I would much rather strive for perfection.
          If I had wanted to put a bow in that table I would have welded it exactly like they did
          One thing you can do is weld all around, at the welds only on the opposite side and then grind them off.

          www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
          Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
          MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
          Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
          Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

          Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
          Miller 30-A Spoolgun
          Miller WC-115-A
          Miller Spectrum 300
          Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
          Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

          Comment


          • #6
            That box tube frame pretty much has the plate trapped from moving, (much).
            First thing Id do is cut the plate loose from the frame; place a straight edge on the plate to find the crown. The size of the crown would determine what method Id attack the bow with.
            Attached Files
            Caution!
            These are "my" views based only on my experiences in my little bitty world.

            Comment


            • #7
              Looks like the consensus so far supports cutting the top free of the framework. I think for now I'll resist the urge to flip the top just because I want to preserve the galvanization for the future (and because it's so d**ned heavy).

              FK, your idea to apply welds on the top was intriguing, but I think I'll try another approach first for the same reason.

              Thanks FK and Sonora for your thoughts.
              Miller XMT-350 CC/CV
              Miller S-22A wirefeeder
              Bernard 400A "Q" gun
              Miller 30-A Spoolmatic w/WC-24
              CK 210 & WP-18 GTAW torches
              Hypertherm Powermax 30
              O/A Rig, Enco 4x6 bandsaw, etc.

              Comment


              • #8
                If you dont want to use heat, you can always do it the tuff way. With a beam and port-a-power.
                Attached Files
                Caution!
                These are "my" views based only on my experiences in my little bitty world.

                Comment


                • #9
                  easy way

                  nobody really suggested, except sonora, its just mild steel, why make it a career, move it cold, it will go, know some one with an excavator, block 4 corners, push down the ctr, but if you use it alot for welding and tack on it alot, it will still move around

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                  • #10
                    easy way II

                    For better control you could use a hydrualic jack between the plate and say the stright axle on a heavy truck or a pallet loaded with something heavy on a fork lift. Be Carefull.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Could you not just cut all sides but 1, then heat her up and let it streatch back to normal. By leaving one side tacked to the frame it won't be so likly to buckel/bow.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by overkill 19 View Post
                        Could you not just cut all sides but 1, then heat her up and let it streatch back to normal. By leaving one side tacked to the frame it won't be so likly to buckel/bow.
                        The frame below the tabletop is warped the same as the 1/2" plate. So, no matter whether I cut the top free from all of the welds or just a few, I'll have to shim beneath the straightened top before I reattach it to the curved frame. From that perspective, it makes more sense I think to free the plate from all of the welds. Maybe tomorrow. I'll decide what to do about the crown in the plate after I measure it free of the frame.

                        FK is right, there are too many welds holding the top on now. I think the excess heat from those beads and the ones holding the frame together is what bent the top in the first place. I'll not make the same mistake when reattaching the top; fewer welds applied with better timing and spacing are better.
                        Miller XMT-350 CC/CV
                        Miller S-22A wirefeeder
                        Bernard 400A "Q" gun
                        Miller 30-A Spoolmatic w/WC-24
                        CK 210 & WP-18 GTAW torches
                        Hypertherm Powermax 30
                        O/A Rig, Enco 4x6 bandsaw, etc.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You might have a difficult time with 1/2", but when I made my table (3/8") I attached it to the frame by welding some nuts to the table (on the bottom of course), welded some spacers on the frame and bolted it down. This let me pull the table straight by adjusting the bolts.
                          Of course if you had access to a really big mill, you could just grind it flat!
                          Miller Syncrowave 200
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                          130XP MIG
                          Spectrum 375
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                          Select Machine and Tool Mill
                          More stuff than I can keep track of..

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                          • #14
                            $50

                            you only paid $50 for the table!, cut the warped plate off and add a new top. For me to buy all the HSS castors and plate to build that table it would cost around 2-$300, so dont waste your time with a rosebud, or cutting some of the welds and try bending it back, your wasting your time, just replace the top
                            DODGE 1 TON 6.7
                            PIPEPRO 304
                            TO MANY TOOLS
                            JUST WELDING IN CIRCLES
                            rig welders are like wheelbarrows hard to push around
                            and easily upset
                            go flames go

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by pipeline Dan View Post
                              you only paid $50 for the table!, cut the warped plate off and add a new top. For me to buy all the HSS castors and plate to build that table it would cost around 2-$300, so dont waste your time with a rosebud, or cutting some of the welds and try bending it back, your wasting your time, just replace the top

                              But dude...what would that prove??? It's the principle
                              Besides if he wasn't all hung up on the stinkin' galvanize, it would almost come back flat simply by flipping it and welding it back down in the same spots. And if not at least everything would stay on the table

                              www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
                              Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                              MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                              Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                              Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

                              Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                              Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                              Miller WC-115-A
                              Miller Spectrum 300
                              Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                              Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

                              Comment

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