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  • Getting into a safe.











    I had the neighbor call me up this weekend and ask if I thought I had something to cut into a safe. My first question was (is it your's?). Well he had a good friend of his pass, and the safe was left to my neighbor. Tonight was the first chance I had so I backed his truck over to my driveway. A few minutes with the metabo and we were in from the back side. I was able to unbolt the locking bolts and get the door open. The reason for this is that the locksmith wants 475 dollars to get inside and then fix the lock-set to a new combination. If the door is open he will fix the lock for 175 dollars. The pics arnt the greatest but here they are. Oh yes, the top, bottom, and sides are 3/16th plate bent and welded and the door is 3/8th.








    I know it wasnt anything really wild but I thought it was pretty cool.
    Last edited by tom37; 06-30-2009, 09:18 PM.

    Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
    Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
    Clarke 180 EN Just in case
    Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
    O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
    Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
    4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
    Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
    Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
    I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


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  • #2
    What was in it?
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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    • #3
      Shop around before paying $175 just to change the combination!!!!!! That's way high.
      Jim

      Comment


      • #4
        Sorry guys I forgot about what was in it.

        There was several leather goods, such as coin holder, wallet, and pouch with 4 old watches. Some rocks. And I dont think they were the kind of rocks that are worth money. There was a clarinet, complete with all the parts and a nice case. Oh yes there was a small pill case with a tooth in it. I'm not sure why the tooth was in there.

        The neighbor is going to check on the lock fix tomorrow. I know nothing about the locking mech. This one has a dial for the combination, with a key hole below and to the right of the dial. Then there is a 3 knob dial to turn the bolts after the lock releases. I almost want to think that from the setup inside, that you may have to have the key and the combination.

        Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
        Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
        Clarke 180 EN Just in case
        Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
        O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
        Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
        4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
        Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
        Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
        I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


        Projects and Misc Albums
        http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

        Comment


        • #5
          Thats looks to be a McGunn B-rate safe. Used in a lot of convenience type stores in the midwest. McGunn is now defunct. 175 is a bit on the high side to reset a combo, Since it is in the back of the truck, he can drive it to a lockshop and avoid paying a service call which is about 75-90 bucks
          Miller 350P
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          7x12 bandsaw
          1910 ATW 14 x 72 lathe
          fridge full of adult beverages
          Sirius radio

          www.snpequipment.com
          callouses and burns a plentysigpic

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          • #6
            A Safe is not Safe around Tom

            Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
            Bob

            Comment


            • #7
              Thank You strength and power, for the possible name of the safe. The neighbor was wondering who is was made by since it has no name anywhere on it.

              Well he called around today and found that his good buddy locksmith was gona slam the bill right in his kester!!

              40 bucks will get it in working order, he is going to lift the door off the hinge and run it in the store.


              Over 100 bucks to 40, really makes ya wounder what good buddies are for.

              Thank You for the compliment urch.

              Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
              Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
              Clarke 180 EN Just in case
              Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
              O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
              Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
              4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
              Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
              Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
              I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


              Projects and Misc Albums
              http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

              Comment


              • #8
                Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.
                Miller Econotig
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                O/A Smith rig

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by gda View Post
                  Try taking the cover off the inside where the dial is. You may see how easy it is to change the combinations on some safes. On my MOSLER safe there are 3 brass rings with engraved numbers that mount via a 100 tooth spline. Changing the combinaition is as simple as removing the rings and lining the numbers you want for the combination up with arrows on the hub.
                  Most combo locks I've seen have a change key. You insert the change key into the backside of the lock. Give the key a 1/4 turn. Dial in the new combo using the 'changing mark' instead of the 'opening mark' (changing mark is at the 11 o'clock position instead of the 12 o'clock). Give the key a 1/4 turn in the opposite direction and remove the key. Test the new combo by locking and unlocking the door without closing it. All total maybe 5 minutes. If there's a keyhole on the backside of the lock, I'd start looking at buying or making a change key (square stock with a little tab, or something similar)

                  Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by urch55 View Post
                    Tom now you can add safe cracking, cutting, getting into on your resume.. Looks like a nice weld job putting the patch back in.
                    Bob
                    Also be sure to add
                    welding the safe back together to hide the evidince.
                    This is an automotive discussion forum that has some great infromation

                    www.autobodytoolmart.com/shoptalk

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Pad lock will work fine.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Two statements of caution on cutting into old safes,
                        Some are filled between the steel walls with concrete and or asbestos/cement combo. A big mess as the dust goes everywhere and is a pain I A to clean up not to mention a health/toxic waste hazard.

                        Some of the real old safes, had vials of cyanide in the doors as a burglar proofing system. As I wasn't a safe man, just locks and keys I don't remember the dates when they quite using it them. But I do know there are still a lot of them out there. So be careful if you start working on the doors of any real old ones.

                        As to the tooth could have been his or his child's tooth, it is amazing what is kept in the safes by people. There are always interesting stories in the locksmithing magazine.
                        glen, If your not on the edge, your wasting space

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                        • #13
                          WOW PT!!

                          Cyanide !! I guess that would take care of the burglar, and then some.

                          I defiantly appreciate the info Sir. I try my best to look ahead and even try to stop for a second and think of the common sense kinda stuff. I thought about the concrete and drilled a tiny hole to make sure that it was only steel. I never thought about asbestoses tho, I guess it makes sense for fire proofing.

                          I will defiantly keep these tips in mind if I ever come across this again.

                          Miller 211 A.S. and Spoolmate 100
                          Stickmate LX 235 AC / 160 DC.
                          Clarke 180 EN Just in case
                          Spectrum 375 X-Treme.
                          O/A Medium Radnor Torch, Large Victor Torch.
                          Milwaukee 14" Chop Saw.
                          4 x 6 Horizontal Band Saw.
                          Rockworth 80 Gallon 2 Stage 16 SCFM @ 175 PSI , 15 SCFM @ 90 PSI.
                          Jackson Passive shade #5 for the plasma.
                          I almost forgot the Hobart XVP AD Hood.


                          Projects and Misc Albums
                          http://picasaweb.google.com/keesfriend Feel Free to Have a Look ( Just keep in mind I am an amateur )

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            That sounds just as bad as having a bomb in a coffin just in case a body snatcher comes along.

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