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  • #16
    i would have thought the WD40 would cause a problem. i may just have to give that a try.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped
    sigpic
    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

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    • #17
      Does Weld-O affect anodizing?

      Originally posted by jwsrep View Post
      The best way to remove aluminum oxides are aluminum cleaner (chemical cleaner). Dynaflux makes an okay cleaner that you can buy for about $8 for a pint. The best cleaner is made by a company named Arcal and the product name is WELD-O. It's more expensive than the Dynaflux, but works great. All you do is apply it on the area you want to weld with an acid brush, leave it on for a minute or two and wipe off. All oxides are removed and you are ready to go.
      Hey Rich
      Weld-O sounds like something I would like to try on aluminum.
      Any idea if it adversely affects the surface for anodizing?
      How long does the surface stay oxide free?

      Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
      Dynasty 200 DX
      Coolmate 3

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      • #18
        those ez-wipes say it's acetone free, and a lot of people here say they use acetone right before they weld! Rich and the rest of you guys, thanks, but that stuff can get expensive for me! I'll think I'll start with the scotchbrite pads and wipe it with the acetone. Then we'll see what I try next
        I'm not late...
        I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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        • #19
          Why Does Everyone ALWAYS Go Off-Topic?

          Originally posted by Bert View Post
          Hi guys, lot of you mention about using a scotchbrite pad to your aluminum.
          Forgive me for being ignorant, but I'm guessing that's the same round one that goes on the rubber backing pad, onto your grinder or drill? I see red, green and brown ones. Which is best?
          thanks,
          bert
          I just freakin LOVE how we get soooo off-topic on these posts. Bert, the green pads you see are "commercial grade" pads that are sold in various thicknesses and sizes. You can also use the "green side" of the standard yellow/green 3M Scotch Brite pads you find in your grocery store. In many cases, when professional welders talk about Scotch Brite pads, they're referring to 3M's Industrial Products line. Green isn't an option, but there are other colors and yes, the colors represent different "grits" or abrasiveness. Here's a link for you to check out:
          http://www.freemansupply.com/ScotchBriteIndustr.htm
          I believe you'll find it enlightening.

          For God's sake, STAY AWAY FROM WD-40 for GTAW welding! WD-40 ignites at about 250 degrees and your torch is a good bit hotter than that (well, several thousand degrees, on par). WD-40 is a grease-based petroleum product.....it's the LAST type of chemical you'd want to introduce into an aluminum weld.

          Do yourself a favor: when cleaning your filler-metal rods or cleaning your base material initially, use a standard green scotchbrite pad. Just go to your local grocery store for now and pick a few up to try. For heavier oxides, like when you go to the marina and see that "white stuff" on 3" 6061-T6 tuna towers, buy and use a wire brush that you use EXCLUSIVELY on aluminum...don't use it for anything else including Stainless. If you get into a situation like I was in last month (that you and I already spoke about), prep your material with a wire brush, use the deoxidizer suggested by the Jackson rep, and then wipe clean with a painter's tack-cloth.

          Remember: aluminum WANTS to oxidize...the oxidation process is going to begin instantaneously after you clean it. Do your cleaning immediately prior to stepping on your pedal or pushing your button.
          sigpic
          Clint Baxley
          Baxley Welding Service
          Rembert, SC 29128

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          • #20
            I've used scotch brite pads and use them some but mostly after its welded. I have some maroon colored ones which is very fine. They leave like a dust behind which is little particles. As simple as it may sound, a stainless steel wire brush works good no matter how much oxidation is on it. I just buy the little wood handle ones, just a couple bucks. Like somebody said I mark them with a sharpie. Also I like the wire brush becuase I can clamp 2 pieces together then wire brush them both at the place your going to weld. The wire gets in the crack very good.
            Scott
            HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

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            • #21
              wd-40

              I have heard of some old timers using wd-40 to prep the weld area. I could never figure out how it could work, you're supposed to be cleaning out the impurities but wd is a petroleum based product. How do you clean something with oil? Dave
              If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

              sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
              Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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              • #22
                Originally posted by BWS29128 View Post
                I just freakin LOVE how we get soooo off-topic on these posts. Bert, the green pads you see are "commercial grade" pads that are sold in various thicknesses and sizes. You can also use the "green side" of the standard yellow/green 3M Scotch Brite pads you find in your grocery store. In many cases, when professional welders talk about Scotch Brite pads, they're referring to 3M's Industrial Products line. Green isn't an option, but there are other colors and yes, the colors represent different "grits" or abrasiveness. Here's a link for you to check out:
                http://www.freemansupply.com/ScotchBriteIndustr.htm
                I believe you'll find it enlightening.

                For God's sake, STAY AWAY FROM WD-40 for GTAW welding! WD-40 ignites at about 250 degrees and your torch is a good bit hotter than that (well, several thousand degrees, on par). WD-40 is a grease-based petroleum product.....it's the LAST type of chemical you'd want to introduce into an aluminum weld.

                Do yourself a favor: when cleaning your filler-metal rods or cleaning your base material initially, use a standard green scotchbrite pad. Just go to your local grocery store for now and pick a few up to try. For heavier oxides, like when you go to the marina and see that "white stuff" on 3" 6061-T6 tuna towers, buy and use a wire brush that you use EXCLUSIVELY on aluminum...don't use it for anything else including Stainless. If you get into a situation like I was in last month (that you and I already spoke about), prep your material with a wire brush, use the deoxidizer suggested by the Jackson rep, and then wipe clean with a painter's tack-cloth.

                Remember: aluminum WANTS to oxidize...the oxidation process is going to begin instantaneously after you clean it. Do your cleaning immediately prior to stepping on your pedal or pushing your button.
                Not just any metal brush though, it has to made from aluminum or stainlesss and only use it on alumiunum. I also wouldnt recomend using WD40 got to be right up there with the worst things to use, there ares some commercial cleaners but unless this is a big time project or operation you got going i would stick to the brushs.

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                • #23
                  Man,

                  I just caught that comment about "spraying on a little WD-40".

                  Can't imagine how that'd help. Heck, might as well swab the area with axle grease so the cup won't stick to the base metal.

                  Different strokes for different folks, I guess.
                  Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                  Dynasty 200 DX
                  Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                  Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                  Hobart HH187
                  Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                  Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                  Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                  PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                  Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                  Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                  More grinders than hands

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by HMW View Post
                    I've used scotch brite pads and use them some but mostly after its welded. I have some maroon colored ones which is very fine. They leave like a dust behind which is little particles. As simple as it may sound, a stainless steel wire brush works good no matter how much oxidation is on it. I just buy the little wood handle ones, just a couple bucks. Like somebody said I mark them with a sharpie. Also I like the wire brush becuase I can clamp 2 pieces together then wire brush them both at the place your going to weld. The wire gets in the crack very good.
                    I agree with you completely except for one side-item, HMW: I do a good bit of work in the maritime industry, where 6061-T6 is really common on stuff like T-Tops and Tuna Towers and bowrails/taffrails. Most of the time, the T-6 has been anodized (sometimes prior to welding!) and the least little bit of a wave at the dock can send your wire brush skating across someone's shiny rail/tube and that tends to pi** owners off like nothing else! I know Bert does a lot of work on boats and is trying to break into that area, which is the reason I was suggesting the ScotchBrite pads. I like the green and the same maroon ones that you like....I usually don't use acetone like Bert's been doing, but probably should...

                    Back to the wire-brush issue: I found a "new" style of wire brush today...made by Fourney. It has the standard size head and looks to be about the same amount of wires as my other wood-handled brushes, but all the bristle tips come together in a line no-more-than 1/4" wide........I bought two thinking that they'd be GREAT to try on t-top welds where I didn't want excess scratches in the anodizing. Most of the time green pads will get off the "white crud" on the boats I run into, but every once in a while I run into something stubborn and need more "juice". I've never tried any of the stuff the Jackson rep suggested, but I think I'll ask my LWS if he's got some.
                    sigpic
                    Clint Baxley
                    Baxley Welding Service
                    Rembert, SC 29128

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
                      Man,

                      I just caught that comment about "spraying on a little WD-40".

                      Can't imagine how that'd help. Heck, might as well swab the area with axle grease so the cup won't stick to the base metal.

                      Different strokes for different folks, I guess.
                      Sir (or was that C-U-R, as Col Beckwith used to say...?)
                      While you're getting that axle grease from the tread-heads, would you mind running down to the aviators and grabbing me a roll of flight line, please?

                      Going back to the WD-40 issue, and it really doesn't deserve a spot in this thread due to the inaccuracy, but I could see maybe using WD-40 as a possible means of loosening up mill scale or ultra-light corrosion/oxidation on carbon steel just prior to hitting it with a wire brush, but then you'd still have to go back and clean the joint with something like acetone or isopropyl prior to hitting it with the juice. But then, that would sorta defeat the purpose of the WD in the first place, right? Also, and this is just a guess because I've never tried it, but I would imagine that due to acetone's and isopropyl's rapid drying, you'd have to use quite a bit of either to cut through WD-40. Since a lot of Bert's questions are geared toward the maritime industry (gee...not like YOU'd know anything about boats, huh?) I think I'd also worry about WD-40 overspray.....oil-based-stuff on a white fiberglass deck mixed with the first 3-footer that rolls across the transom would be Recipe # 1 for a busted butt. And then, WD-40 on a teak-floored cockpit of some of those million-dollar-dreams you deal with would/could mean a butt-whippin' right after the butt-bustin.........unless I miss my guess again... Let's not forget what petro-products do to white vinyl fighting chairs or deck chaise's...ugly brown spots that are impossible to get up with all the green pads and Simple Green in the world....trust me.... 3-in1 on a flapping halyard hoist in 30kts/6' 'ers goes ALL OVER the boat (and does not make for happy Coxswains!!!

                      Okay...end of rant.
                      sigpic
                      Clint Baxley
                      Baxley Welding Service
                      Rembert, SC 29128

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Clint,

                        LMAO

                        Got to admit though, I've never tried WD-40 for prepping my tig welds.

                        Have used it with a torch to loosen rusted bolts. Not pretty the residue it leaves when ignited by the torch. Scotchbrite, SS brush, acetone about all I've ever used to prep alum. I'll have to try some of that aluminum prep that was mentioned. As you're well aware, some of the repairs are pretty difficult due to the condition of the base metal. Just love some of the manufacturers' who use aluminum swim platform brackets rather than SS.
                        Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                        Dynasty 200 DX
                        Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                        Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                        Hobart HH187
                        Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                        Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                        Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                        PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                        Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                        Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                        More grinders than hands

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          All you guys are awsome, 'special thanks to Clint
                          I start the H-power shutdown on Wed, so I won't be able to weld for at LEAST a month. NOW you guys may have some peace and quiet on this board!!!!
                          ok...don't cry...I'll make time
                          I'm not late...
                          I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            BWS29128

                            They sound like the little wire brushes I use. Wooden handle about 6" over all length handle and all, and the wire is about 1/4" wide. Your right about messing up other things when your working on stuff, thats one reason I don't do any portable work. Also I hate people watching me work If it can't be brought to me I don't do it. But, theres a good market for portable in the marine business, restauraunts etc. Maybe after I retire [12 more yrs] I might try some. I live in a resort so tons of marina's, hotels, restauraunts etc. Right now it would take up to much time doing the portable thing, Leave it and I'll try to fix it
                            Last edited by HMW; 08-21-2007, 06:48 AM. Reason: spelling
                            Scott
                            HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              you have mentioned the little tooth brush sized ones before, where do you get them ?? all i have seen is steel no S.Steel ones.
                              thanks for the help
                              ......or..........
                              hope i helped
                              sigpic
                              feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
                              summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
                              JAMES

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by fun4now View Post
                                you have mentioned the little tooth brush sized ones before, where do you get them ?? all i have seen is steel no S.Steel ones.
                                I buy them usually at LWS, but got them from Enco too $1.22 ea Great brushs, cheap and work well because all I want to clean is where I want to weld
                                http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32
                                Last edited by HMW; 08-21-2007, 10:20 AM. Reason: spelling
                                Scott
                                HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

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