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uphill welding

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  • uphill welding

    hello everybody im new here just wanted to say hi first off, i have been recently practicing uphill welding and to no end cannot get a decent looking yet strong weld and was wondering if any of u can help,im just doing this for pratice so i know the method for when i start to build trailers, im praticing on 3/16 inch thick coupons by 4 inches .every time i do it , it seems to droop down and looks horrible, i was told to turn the heat down and did and still got the same results, is there some type of weaving method or wrist action im not doing, am i going to slow???? is it possible to make and uphill weld look like a fillet weld , using a mig welder with .035 wire with the mix, i can turn out other wleds no problem but the uphill is kickin my arse. i appriciate any advice or feedbak guys . thanks alot

  • #2
    spend more time on the sides than the middle. weave side to side.

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    • #3
      welcome.
      i'm about to start trying stick in the up tomarow i think, wish me luck.

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      • #4
        If you watch some one who is a good uphill welder you will find it a big
        help in learning the correct technique, welder setting is important. I have
        found a 7016 rod made it easier as they freeze quicker than say a 6013. I was using it with an engine driven DC welder.

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        • #5
          sorry i might have side tracked it a bit, he is using a MIG not stick. i just mentioned i was going to try stick up today.


          test save button
          Last edited by fun4now; 08-14-2007, 04:29 PM. Reason: test save button

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          • #6
            All the time is spent on the sides the center is a passing zone only no parking or stopping or slowing down in the center. Snap from the left to the right turn the voltage down about 30% from you best setting for a flat fillet.

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            • #7
              Fat Fab, love your description of the no parking zone, I have found I can hear a change in the sound of the arc when the sides have had enough and it is time to move to the other side. Hope this helps, Paul

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              • #8
                Same as with a stick, side to side and don't sit in the middle. Correct procedure when running uphill with sticks is to run overlapping stringer beads, with the stringers being no more than 1 and 1/2 times the width of the electrode. I.E 1/8th electrodes would have a bead width of no more than 7/16 inch. It isn't as pretty a weld, but the chance of inclusions is much lower.

                I don't use 7016 for anything always 7018. Lincoln Excalibur is the most forgiving I have used. If I can't get it I prefer Harris E7018. Stay away from Lincoln 7018AC if you are using a DC machine (the only place I have ever seen the stuff is home depot or lowes, but on dc it bugholes worse then anything I have ever used with any amount of breeze). The others don't care if it is ac or dc. I have had the best luck with these two. When you are learning use 3/32, and don't get in a hurry to move on. Stick with it until you have it down then move up to the next size.

                Just thought I would share since you are planning to start with sticks. Basically if you can run 7018 uphill properly you can do anything.

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                • #9
                  Since we are on the topic of uphill welding and kinda got onto stick electrodes has anyone ever used ESAB's 7018, or OK55 as its called? I personally dont think its that great for what u pay i think $34/ 20# box. I find that it sticks alot more and doesnt flow as nice as the linoln or Blueshield 7018? i mean i could be full of crap but thats just what i think, and was wondering what other people think as well

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                  • #10
                    well above poster is right if u can master vertical up stick u should be able to learn any kinda welding.


                    Now with the mig vertical up u need to set up ur machine to run low, not sure but some call it short circuit welding(some dont) set ur settings at 175 wire speed and around 17-18 volts. Not sure what ur welding but this should work good for mild steel around 3/8. If running hot or bead to big adjust wire speed first down or up. If that dont work then adjust volts either down if getting to hot to handle or up if it isnt. Doing this u need to pause in each side and let bite in and fill up then whip to other side and repeat. Make sure u go quick in middle and it will fill up by itself.

                    other than that as with any kinda welding PRACTICE, practice and more PRACTICE will get u going

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                    • #11
                      thanks for the replies guys

                      hey just wanted to say thanks for all ur guys advice on the uphill welding . ill be trying it this weekend , a big problem i knew right off the bat was i stayed in the middle so ill try the side to side and well c how it goes. thanks again woop woop

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                      • #12
                        try pushing wire at 5-10 degrees uphill angle also from parrelel to floor. works 4 me on thin stuff running 072

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                        • #13
                          I have burned tons of ESAB7018, also known as atom arc. Now I buy the rods and it is strictly last resort (as in I absolutely cannot get anything else). I buy 7018 in this order: Lincoln Excalibur, Harris E7018, Lincoln LH70, anything else I can possibly get, and then ESAB. ESAB's 6011 is a different story. It is a great rod.

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                          • #14
                            Jolly Roger, what is the shelf life of 7018 ?? just kept on a shelf not in a hot box.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by fun4now View Post
                              Jolly Roger, what is the shelf life of 7018 ?? just kept on a shelf not in a hot box.
                              James,
                              I wouldn't worry about 7018 for just welding up coupons as practice. Now if you were doing code work, 7018 has to be kept in a rod oven. The new 7018 electrodes today resist moisture pretty good, but if you are doing code work like say bridge repair 7018 out of the rod oven is good for aproximately 1 hour (don't quote me on that it may be 2 hours). Anything longer than that would have to go thru a be-bake process. Which if I remember right has to be at 500 degrees for either 8-10 hours. I'm a little rusty at remembering...it has been a long time.

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