Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums

The forum is currently undergoing maintenance and is in a 'read-only' mode for the time being. Sorry for the inconvenience.

  • If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.


Announcement Module
No announcement yet.

Rehabbing a gooseneck Car hauler. Trailer Gods....

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
Conversation Detail Module
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Rehabbing a gooseneck Car hauler. Trailer Gods....

    Ok I just did some horse trading to get this trailer. All the sides and expanded steel and gate is coming off. I am gusseting the neck and adding a 2' dovetail. I am running new 5 inch Channel the length of the trailer. Currently the gooseneck hits the 5 inch channel and runs to the front of the axles. There is a piece of 2x3 angle running the length. Not quite strong enough for me. So I pull the wood and run the channel next to the angle? When I add crossmembers should I use 3" channel, 2x3 angle, 2x2x.120 tubing or something else? Should I move the axles back if I am adding the dovetail? The trailer has 2 3500lb axles with brakes on both. I plan on towing new cars and trucks, but occasionally my Buddy's cummins whenever it breaks down. I am pulling the wood now as I wait for my plasma consumables to come from hong kong in the mail.
    Last edited by Joey-D; 02-24-2009, 04:46 PM. Reason: Took out pictures so it could be read

  • #2


    • #3


      • #4
        If you could, repost the words, without the pictures. Your pics are so big, expands everything to the point the miller ads, cut into the words, make them meaningless,,,, I can't read what you wrote.


        • #5
          I couldnt read your post either.

          The axles are 3500 Lb axles total load 7000# including the weight of the trailer, Figure tonge weight at 1000# means your load capacity is approx. 5,500- 6,000 lbs probably closer to the 5500.

          The rear half only has an angle support so the side angle that sticks up approx. 12" is where your strength is.

          To make it a heavier duty trailer you will need to cut the spring perches off add a channel and then mount the springs to the new channel so it will sit higher and yes move the fenders & axles back a little if your adding 2' onto the trailer and then with all that you might want to add 6000lb axles & springs rims I tires for the bigger load.

          All that gets expensive so you might want to sell that one and buy a bigger one which will be alot cheaper


          • #6
            I removed the deck. Which was a pain. Ended up cutting the three crossmembers it was screwed to out. Gonna post some more pictures with the wood and three crossmembers out. Then I gonna read what you guys wrote and go from there.


            • #7


              • #8
                Do you guys follow what I am saying with adding the channel. Put in "inside" the angle that runs the length of the trailer. Add my cross members to that, and then add my wood back on. If would be a lot easier than removing the axles and putting it under the angle and/or replacing the angle with it. If I put it "inside" the angle if would give me a little more strength then replacing the angle.

                As far as weights go, shouldn't it be 7000lb of axles weight plus tongue weight (say a 1000lb) minus trailer weight (say 1500lbs) equal load allowance. Meaning

                7000# (2-3500# axles rating)
                +1000# Tongue weight
                -1500# Trailer weight
                6500lb cargo weight on trailer


                • #9
                  And if I pull the cummins home again, it weighs in at 7100#. But since that truck weight is in the motor, I would be exceeding the rating of the trailer yes, but most of the weight would be added to the tongue weight. Am I correct in this logic? Not trying to argue, just trying to learn.


                  • #10
                    If Im not mistaken, dont gooseneck trailers put up to 20% of the load on the truck?


                    • #11
                      That would be even better at 20%.

                      I was looking around on good ol craigslist and found some steals on steel.
                      So I was thinking 6" channel with 3" angle crossmembers. A stick of 5" at the yard was $112 for a 20fter. 6" from this guy was $60 before haggling. By the way if you ever need a quick steel quote use this website
                      Shipping is crazy but I have ordered small quantities from them before.


                      • #12
                        thats a nice project, but if your adding channel to the inside it's going make it narrower yes? if you plan on hauling a truck your just asking for trouble. you might want to consider just giving it a good clean up and fresh paint. and selling it put the money toward the right size trailer. you didn't give the dementions or what your using to haul with. but you sould have a 10,000 pound trailer for a 7000 pound truck. and i hope your pulling with a dually or it's going to push you down the road.


                        • #13
                          The trailer is 82" between fenders. If I put channel inside the angle and run the wood under the channel "leg" it will be almost even with the top of the channel. So not really narrowing it at all. Plus I plan on having removable fenders also. As far as my tow rig, I have a 2001 Chevy K3500 Duramax Dually 4x4 extended cab longbed. Why a 10K trailer for a 7K load? I understanding not overloading a trailer, but a 7k truck on a 7k trailer should be fine. Since 1400 lb will be on the truck and the trailer should weight 1400lbs then I will be at max load. But still at load limit.


                          • #14
                            Adding the channel will not give one much more strength as the depth of the sides is what is giving the trailer strength, and since the depth of the side is greater than what your adding it will not do much besides, add weight, IMO

                            and to increase it weight carrying capacity add a new Axel to the existing two, that would be the easiest way to increase it weight capacity,

                            but then your "goose neck hitch" is not much heavier than what the trailer is built for currently.
                            Last edited by Farmer Boy; 02-25-2009, 10:34 PM.


                            • #15
                              Sanora, Your probably right about the Gooseneck having 20% of the load on the truck.

                              I'm used to bumper hitch type which is 10-15%.

                              Thanks for the correction.


                              Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.