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  • What tig rod

    I removed my neighbors old receiver dish which must have been at least 8-9 ft in diameter. With the exception of the pole mount, and a steel circular backmount..........the dish frame is made of extruded aluminum 1.5x.250 and the screen is expanded aluminum. I cut it up and will keep the material for projects. I have no clue what grade of alum it is. Is there a special rod to tig this or does anyone have recomendations. Nick
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  • #2
    Monte,

    Have no clue as to what grade of aluminum was used to fabricate the dish.

    I'd try 4043 filler first to see how it's going to react. Key here is going to be how well you're able to clean up the base metal. I suspect, having been out in the weather for some time, that there is going to be a fair amount of oxidation to deal with.

    For the extruded metal, you may want to try a dremel tool with a SS wire brush for getting into those hard to reach places.

    Just my .02
    Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200 DX
    Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
    Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
    Hobart HH187
    Dialarc 250 AC/DC
    Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
    Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
    PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
    Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
    Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
    More grinders than hands

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
      Monte,

      Have no clue as to what grade of aluminum was used to fabricate the dish.

      I'd try 4043 filler first to see how it's going to react. Key here is going to be how well you're able to clean up the base metal. I suspect, having been out in the weather for some time, that there is going to be a fair amount of oxidation to deal with.

      For the extruded metal, you may want to try a dremel tool with a SS wire brush for getting into those hard to reach places.

      Just my .02
      SundownIII......thanks for the comeback...............the aluminum has a flat black paint like cast to it like it was painted at first but very thin now and in good condition. It comes off easily with course steel wool and the metal shows no oxidation. Nick
      Nick
      Miller 252 Mig
      Miller Cricket XL
      Millermatic 150 Mig
      Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
      2-O/A outfits
      Jet Lathe and Mill
      Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
      DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
      Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
      20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
      Propane Forge
      60" X 60" router/plasma table

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
      Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
      and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

      Comment


      • #4
        More than likely probably 6063 T5 extruded aluminum. 4043 gets my vote.
        Rich Ferguson
        Sales Technician
        Jackson Welding Supply Co.
        "Keep America Strong.....Weld It"
        www.jacksonweldingsupply.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Same here 4043 I've used on cast before and seems to work OK
          Scott
          HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

          Comment


          • #6
            Guys! Why 4043, when I hear 5356 is more universal? thanks
            I'm not late...
            I'm just on Hawaiian Time

            Comment


            • #7
              Bert,

              Sorry to take so long to get back, but wanted to do a little research first. My first response, which was to use 4043, and was seconded by others, was just based on experience (read best guess) based on what has worked for me in the past.

              Being an engineer, the more I thought about it, I felt the response needed more substantiation. I have listed two sites which I feel will give you a better explanation of why certain filler materials are chosen. These two sites provide a "basic" understanding. If you wish to delve deeper, you may want to check out the AWS site. (Listed since I'm not up on linking)

              http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...nt/tigalum.asp

              http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...uminumwire.asp

              Bottom line. Sounds like there is substantiation as to why 4043 was recommended.

              Anyone else got further references as to the selection of filler material?
              Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
              Dynasty 200 DX
              Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
              Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
              Hobart HH187
              Dialarc 250 AC/DC
              Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
              Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
              PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
              Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
              Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
              More grinders than hands

              Comment


              • #8
                SundownIII

                Very good reference, thanks.
                I noticed they mentioned using 5356 for the spool gun and I have not tried it. Used only 4043 on 6061 and some 3003 plate and it seemed to work well. Would 5356 work any better? Might have to get a spool and try it to see. Also only used 4043 with TIG and repaired lots of alum castings with this filler with good results.
                Scott
                HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

                Comment


                • #9
                  HMW,

                  You definitely need to pick up a spool of 5356 and try it in the spoolgun. Works great. I tried 5356 first in the HH187 because, for the life of me, I couldn't get 4043 to feed without creating a "habitat for birds".

                  I probably use 5356 2 to 1 over 4043 in my 30A on the MM251.

                  As I'm sure you know, you can re-anodize 5356 whereas 4043 will turn black. Just don't want to use 5356 where ambient heat will exceed 165F. (grills would be a prime example).

                  Let me know what you think.
                  Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
                  Dynasty 200 DX
                  Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
                  Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
                  Hobart HH187
                  Dialarc 250 AC/DC
                  Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
                  Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
                  PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
                  Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
                  Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
                  More grinders than hands

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sundown III and HMW:
                    Sundown, I've got the same setup as you (251 with 30A spoolgun)!!!!!!!!!!
                    I'll be bugging you for more info for marine stuff, ok???
                    I'm not late...
                    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OOoops, sorry!!
                      HMW, THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT!!!
                      I'm not late...
                      I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                      Comment

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