Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums

The forum is currently undergoing maintenance and is in a 'read-only' mode for the time being. Sorry for the inconvenience.


  • If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Announcement Module
Collapse
No announcement yet.

Band saw blades?

Page Title Module
Move Remove Collapse
X
Conversation Detail Module
Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Band saw blades?

    I am currently in the process of rebuilding a horizontal/vertical metal band saw. I got it for free several years ago, and am just finaly getting around to cleaning it up. I just put all new bearings on it, and made the first cut. It was cutting great and then it sort of jumped and started cutting very slow and crooked. When I shut it off and looked at it, there are a coouple very large stretches where the teeth are broke off. It is sort of odd, they are not worn off, they are clearly broken off.

    So, I need to get a new blade. What would be the best type/tooth count to get? It will mostly be cutting tubing and flat stock, up to 1/2". I will be using it for aluminum down the road, but that is a ways off still.

    Thanks for any suggestions.

  • #2
    I'm thinking that I have a 10/14 on my saw that I use for everything thicker than 16g.

    If you were doing production runs you would probably want to take the time to change to the optimum blade for whatever you were cutting.

    Others will chime in.

    Comment


    • #3
      http://www.countrysaw.com/ has any blade you could ever need...Bob

      Comment


      • #4
        Band Saw Blades

        That's what I'd suggest, 10/14 tooth blade. If you have a 64 1/2" (common) you can get standard blades at Home Depot for around $10. A higher quality "bi-metal" blade goes for around $25 each. I've had the teeth break off of new blades too. I bought my old "PowerCraft" 64 1/2" saw from my neighbor for $25 last year! You can get a belt for the motor at NAPA, check the lube in the gear box, use a good hypoid lube, not grease. Mine doesn't cut perfect, but it suffices until I get a new one. When we all get our "stimulus package" I'll buy a new JET. (LOL)

        Dave

        Comment


        • #5
          grizzly and enco have a lot

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Scarsman View Post
              Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.
              Do yourself a favor and source your blades from some other dealer. If you go with Harbor Freight don't expect much and you won't be too disappointed.

              Comment


              • #8
                I vote bi-metal. I use Lennox from my LWS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Take it for what it's worth -

                  I have a belt drive Enco (same as HF) 7x12.

                  If I want to cut say a 10"x1/4" piece and stand it up in the saw I know it won't be square, just the nature of the machine, cheap.

                  If I lay it down I know that the cut will load with chips and wreck the blade.

                  I keep my belt a little loose so that if the blade locks up the motor pulley
                  will spin inside the belt. It makes a horrible screeching sound but at least I
                  haven't ruined a $25. blade.

                  Also pays to keep an eye on a long cut like this and lift the blade occasionally
                  and clear the chips.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chuck U&R View Post
                    Take it for what it's worth -

                    I have a belt drive Enco (same as HF) 7x12.

                    If I want to cut say a 10"x1/4" piece and stand it up in the saw I know it won't be square, just the nature of the machine, cheap.

                    If I lay it down I know that the cut will load with chips and wreck the blade.

                    I keep my belt a little loose so that if the blade locks up the motor pulley
                    will spin inside the belt. It makes a horrible screeching sound but at least I
                    haven't ruined a $25. blade.

                    Also pays to keep an eye on a long cut like this and lift the blade occasionally
                    and clear the chips.
                    The blade loads with chips even with cutting fluid?

                    Do you have any other comments about this saw. I was planning on purchasing it as I thought it would be a better choice than the 4x6 that HF sells but if the quality is the same maybe I am better off just getting a small but high quality machine.

                    Thanks
                    Last edited by dudical26; 02-12-2009, 12:41 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I'm just a hobby guy that likes to fabricate.

                      I've never run coolant, the saw came with it but I don't need that mess.

                      I run the second fastest pulley and control the cut with the down feed.

                      I think I'm on my 3rd blade. The first 2 taught me to loosen the belt.

                      I bought the saw at least 5 years ago (Enco $450. free shipping) and have cut tons of steel with it.

                      This saw is fine for my needs, I don't need anything fancier.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Here is a small tip for you for cutting wider pieces of flat bar etc. Put a bit of a spacer under the trailing edge of the material so the blade never cuts across the whole surface at the same time. The blade will only contact a small portion of the material thus keeping the teeth from loading up and breaking off.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanx Shep-

                          I never thought of that - good idea.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Scarsman View Post
                            Thanks. I think I will run down to Harbor freight and see what they have.
                            i run a HF 64 1/2 blade and it works great i push it in the vertical position as hard as i dare wail I'm sitting on the bed and i haven't broke it yet. (witch amazes me as i thought the blade was a piece of crap) (bi-metal 10 tooth on sale $8 )

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X
                            Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.