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  • #16
    Originally posted by fun4now View Post
    i had no intention of pressurizing it. not heating with steam, just hot water. worst case is it leaks water all over the house and the house heater kicks in to keep us warm. in the morning i just have a wet floor to deal with. no boom option.

    shortarc
    It circulates on it's own, hot goes up cool comes down, no pumps involved.


    i was planing to use a pump for circulation, how did you make it un-needed ??
    can you elaborate ?? would be nice to take the pump out of the system.
    On the ones I build for them they have a pipe coming out of the top of the tank, it goes up maybe 5 feet with an elbow then runs the length of the building (greenhouse) then it drops to the floor into a manifold that runs to about 5 or 6 pipes that run the length of the house to a manifold on the other end which it turn feeds back into the bottom of the tank.

    The way I understand it as it heats up it comes out of the top and cools during the circulation and re enters at the bottom. Seems to work well.

    From what I've been told some of the first John Deere tractors worked the same way with no water pump. That was a little before my time I guess.
    Trailblazer 302
    Lincoln SP-135-T
    Hobart Stickmate AC/DC
    Smith torch
    Spoolmatic 30A

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    • #17
      These are pictures of a bigger one I made last year, shows the plumbing a little better.

      The valve was inoperable and only used for the flange connecting point and was installed vertical.
      Attached Files
      Trailblazer 302
      Lincoln SP-135-T
      Hobart Stickmate AC/DC
      Smith torch
      Spoolmatic 30A

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Jeepnford View Post
        The household water furnaces are not pressurized. They have a vent tube out the top of the tank for relief. Most of them have a temp sensor on the side of tank and are used to control a draft blower for the fire.
        Oh. Never mind.

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        • #19
          I too have been looking into designing ,and building my own outdoor wood boiler.There is a lot of info on the hearth.com website.I have got lots of ideas for system design there.
          I would like to build some sort of Gassification style boiler if i could get all the details on one.They burn much more efficiantly and use less wood.Since i am layed off now would be the time to start on one,but i have no cash for the materials
          Keep us informed of what you do as i know i would be interested in your experiance.

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          • #20
            water wood heater

            built one last summer. 36 inch pipe 48 inhes long. box 4x4x5 ft long to hold water. approx 475 gals. 12inch pipe 36 inches long for expansion tank. this is connected to bottom piece by 3 nch pipe. air tight with blower unit on back. 2 two inch combustion air lines inserted near bottom. 1" return with diffuse on bot corner and 1" supply on top opposite. pump runs continous through coil in warm air furnace. furnace only runs when calls for heat. stove is airtight and combustion blower only runs when water is under 160. vent out top of 12" prevents pressure build.12 to 18 hour fill time for wood. works great have to make another. also built hot air model

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