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  • #16
    step pics.

    ev372, Not sure if you will be able to see what you are looking for in the pics, but I'll tell you how I do it . The cross member in front and behind the fender is cut at 17" longer than the trailer width so it will stick out 8 1/2" on each side to protect the fender. The step on the front of the trailer is just 1 1/2" angle from the cross member to the underside of the main frame rail. The rear step is 1 1/2" angle brought back from the cross member to the rear of the trailer and a piece is then brought to the underside of the rear cross member. In this case I used a piece of 2"x 1/4" flat bar to tie it into the top perimeter rail. I hope this isn't too confusing the way I describe it but you may be able to understand it as you look at the pics. Dave
    Attached Files
    If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

    sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
    Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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    • #17
      almost forgot

      I personally prefer using box tube for the tongue as it is easier to conceal the wiring harness and add a little protection to it. Dave
      If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

      sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
      Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

      Comment


      • #18
        Hey my email is chrismadden@mici.com just send me a email and ill reply back with the plans.
        Millermatic 135
        Syncrowave 200 with coolmate 3
        Hypertherm powermax 30

        were I am when I am home
        http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...5/IMG_7413.jpg

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        • #19
          Hey Dave......
          If you ever, I'm sure you will, make another trailer with the 2x3x3/16 angle iron, PLEASE write a detailed description from Stages 1 through 20!!!
          I'd love to know how to build that too!!! I agree with your method/ethics of building, but, re: homeowner, 'cmon, I know A LOT of dum*##)&*#ss that use a homemade trailer to redo their lot, and have a big pile of grave, seeing the trailer bending, going down the road. After they get home, trailers broken, they wash it off, then bring it over to you and lie they weren't carrying that much with it!!!
          Like I mentioned in an earlier post, my friend that did custom boat trailers for a living, used 4" to 6" channel for boats from 17' to 30' long. His bunks were
          2x6 wrapped with carpet only supported with 1 bracket in the front and 1 in the back. All the other boat builders put 4 or 5 brackets. His bunks flex with the boat going down the road. The others don't. He says, when there are bumps, what's taking the beating while the trailer is bouncing? the bunks? NO,
          the fiberglass/boat = stress cracks in the hull....
          ok...I'm finished
          I'm not late...
          I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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          • #20
            EV372 -I'm with Dave on using tubing for a tongue. Not clear about how you intend to use channel for the tongue. If you use 3 inch channel laid flat, then you are using it in its weakest plane, and it is not going to be as effective as you might hope. It will be 3" wide and fit a standard coupler but it is really only ~1 1/2" high and it's height that provides the strength. If you put it on edge how is is strongest, you will need to use two pieces back to back, (or front to front if you prefer) to get a tongue that is wide enough to fit a coupler - so in effect you just made up a box tube by doing so. I'll grant that 2 @ 3" channels back to back and welded along the length are stronger than a 3" x 3" tube, but I don't think that additional strength would warrant the extra effort and fitup issues.
            I have a 2'x3' garden trailer (for lawn tractor) that has a 3" channel tongue laid flat (replacement for the crappy factory piece of bent sheetmetal that noodled on the first good load) and that tends to bend and flex a lot going over rough ground with any load - and it's only 4' from coupler to axle. FWIW - I don't think you would be happy with the same on a 16' trailer with a normal tongue length.

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            • #21
              trailer tongue

              Big_Eddy, It sounds like you are describing a totally different animal than I am describing.
              When asked about using channel for the tongue, I'm assuming ev372 is talking about using a 50 degree A-frame coupler with the channel standing with the 3" side vertical. A lot of people use this method and it works for them. I on the other hand don't like channel tongues for a number of reasons. The first being the channel has a square edge and the mounting area inside the coupler is rounded. Second is the fact that the wiring harness can be concealed much better, faster and easier, and third reason is that I believe channel flexes more than the box tube. Fourth reason , it's my personal opinion that box tube is easier and neater to work with. Depending on the trailer I use 3" x 2" x 11 ga. or 4" x 2" x 11 ga. box tube and in some cases I will use 6" x 2" x 7 ga for heavier trailers. For the basic utility trailer 2x3 will be more than sufficient.

              The tongue you described is a straight single tube coupler and is something I would never consider using on any trailer I build. Dave
              If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

              sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
              Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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              • #22
                Got it - makes sense now - I was thinking a central tube with diagonal bracing - couldn't see how channel would work for the central member. Wasn't thinking broad enough.

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                • #23
                  Dave,
                  You are right on target about the 50 degree coupler and the 3" channel laid on its side. This is one of the ideas i got from looking at several trailers. The 2" x 3" angle for the tounge on other trailers seemed to light for a 6' x 12' trailer, ie: today i saw a lawn service trailer, 6x12; the guy had a riding mower all the way to the front. And the were the tounge went under the trailer It was bowed like a swayback horse. I like the box tube you mentioned, I will look into that. Still calling around too see if i can better prices on steel. thanks for the pics and I do have a basic idea of what your talking about on the steps, the more i read and look at the pics i will figure it out. Thanks, Eric
                  MM 175
                  Oxy/Act Set
                  220 Arc Welder

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                  • #24
                    trailer kits

                    here is a place withhttp://www.championtrailers.com/UTILITY_TRAILER_KITS.HTM all the parts and plans for you hope it helps i dont know if i did this right

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                    • #25
                      steel prices

                      ev372, Have you tried getting prices from Modern Welding in Orlando? They have been consistently lower in price than some of the others and no delivery costs. If you need a phone # for them let me know. Also I don't know if they deliver to the west coast but they do deliver here to the east coast on Mon. and Thurs. Dave
                      If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

                      sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
                      Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        There are two kinds of utility trailers. The first is the trailer that has been overloaded and the second is the trailer that will be overloaded.

                        Most trailers I see broken down on the side of the road are when the tongue assy breaks where it comes out from under the main trailer box/frame. consider using a triangulating brace going from the top of the trailer box forward to to just aft of the coupler. also box in the tongue angle where it comes out from under the trailer box. don't see boxing in the full length however.

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                        • #27
                          two types of trailers

                          glockdoc, you're kinda right about that. Most of the trailers you see with the bent tongues or broken axles from being overloaded are generally the "box store" type of trailer. Although they claim to be a 3500 lb. trailer a lot of them are not capable of carrying the payload. Some of these "box store" trailer builders think that because the axle says 3500 lbs, and the springs are rated at 1750 lbs. each, the trailer is now a 3500 lb. trailer.

                          Most of these "box store" trailers are not intended for commercial use and it should be stated as such on the Certificate of Origin. I try to build mine with the worst case scenario in mind but you can't prevent idiots from being idiots. No matter how much you over build them they are still gonna tear them up.

                          In most cases the trailer with the bent tongue or broken axle is from being loaded improperly to begin with. I recently replaced the tongue from a "other brand" trailer, the owner loaded a 15,000 lb. back hoe on a 7000lb. trailer. Did it bend from poor engineering or poor quality materials, no it bent from owner stupidity.

                          Another point I would like to try and bring up about this over build topic is the fact that if you take a good look at the trailers broke down on the side of the road, how many of them are good condition compared to the ones you see that have suffered years of neglect and abuse. Take a look at the vehicle being used to tow these trailers and I would bet they are in just about as poor a condition of the broke down trailer. This is just like anything else, you get what you pay for. You buy cheap, you buy again, you buy quality, you never buy again. If you take care of trailer and use it properly it will last a long, long time. Dave
                          If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

                          sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
                          Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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                          • #28
                            i used to build trailers at a small factory,now i just build a few customs.i build em all out of tube,and 39 is correct in saying 2 x 3 tube will fit the bill on most all common utility trailers,and i agree it is much neater.i hide all my wiring in the tubes.

                            got to build one right now for a contractor,ordered the axles this morning,2- 7000lb dexters with brakes on both,gonna build this one out of 11ga 2 x 4 tube.

                            imo,tube is a little higher but makes a much better product.you can miter all the corners for the frame and any railing and not have any open ends which looks great.just my opinon

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                            • #29
                              Dave,
                              Thanks for the offer. If you can send me a number that would be great. My email address is: ev372@msn.com I dont mind driving to Orlando; its only 45 min. away to possibly save some bucks. Hey, I can stop at the Bass Pro Shop while Im there ; well there goes my saving from the steel On Monday Im going to call a place in Lakeland to check there prices.
                              Quick question- do you use the box tube for the frame or the angle for the frmae? i like that idea of using box tube but concered about the additional weight. Thanks again to everyone for the help, Eric
                              MM 175
                              Oxy/Act Set
                              220 Arc Welder

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                              • #30
                                it all depends on trailer usage

                                Quick question- do you use the box tube for the frame or the angle for the frmae?

                                It all depends on the actual usage of the trailer. If the buyer says he's only gonna use it for recreational purposes and isn't going to haul real heavy stuff, I will go with angle for the main frame. If he tells me he's gonna use it in his construction business I will step it up a little bit. As I said earlier in this post,I do not have any set plans for trailers. I just try to build them to their owners needs. Sometimes angle is all you need, sometimes I will go with channel, and sometimes I go with the box tube.

                                If you are planning to use the trailer as a general (light) duty trailer and don't haul bunks of plywood or pallets of sod on a regular basis an angle frame would be fine for the average home owner type of trailer. Dave
                                If necessity is the Mother of Invention, I must be the Father of Desperation!

                                sigpicJohn Blewett III 10-22-73 to 8-16-07
                                Another racing great gone but not to be forgotten.http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...modified&hl=en

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