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  • Newest project

    Just thought i would post a couple pics of my latest project.....Its for a friend of mine....its a drag chassis for his four wheeler....ill post pics as i get more done.....let me know what ya think
    Attached Files

  • #2
    That's pretty sweet! I'm hoping to get started on my aluminum frame honda Z50 resto-drag bike.. The bike's a 146cc, big cam, oversized valves, 13.5:1 c/r and a ton more.. it's a tad over 15 horses and almost 14 ft/lbs with a 4 speed manual gearbox behind it (yes it's a "mini-bike" but there's people like me all over in the cult following of them )

    can't wait to see the wheeler chassis finished!!!!!!!!

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    • #3
      Yea they are alot of fun....The motor in this one will be a banshee and should have around 108 hp.......not sure on the torque......but thanks for the props

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      • #4
        cool, looks like a great project. cant wait to see more.

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        • #5
          im not real sure why the front of the frame got cut off in those two pics but when i get the a arms done ill get some pics of the front....

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          • #6
            forget pictures of welding project, I wanna see pictures of that monster running down the track!

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            • #7
              I have a few questions about this project for ya. First, What material are you using for the parts and what type of filler rod are you using? The reason i ask this is to ask if you got any distortion on the front end or anything that you had to fix? (and knowing material and filler will help m dtermine where i need to go on my work)

              I seem to have to clamp the **** out of 4130 and especially SS tubing when doing chasses & suspension pieces "the right way" on a table with proper jigging and clamping tools instead of on my knees or back poking at it with a MIG gun.

              About 8 years ago I built a Go-Kart that was air shifted, air clutch on a kawasaki 350 tripple motor with wurgis expansion chambers a( 3 cylinder 350 made back in the 70's...like pre-banshee thoughts even LOL ) I was given the bike with no title and too ugly to ride on teh streets so i cut it up and made a toy out of it.

              That thing was mean as could be and straight as an arrow when finished, and it was migged together on a concrete floor using chalk lines, heavy objects, 90* clamps and a few other combinations of vice-grips, cinder blocks, friends and a BFH. I'm wanting to build a new one that's a little more trick this year to be done around spring early summer. I still have all the vitals from teh first one except for the motor and a lot of it'srunning gear because it got some good money on ebay :P

              What i have to work with as of now are Some real KART axle with all running gear, wheels with tires and bearings, spindles with mounts and a rear caliper for the disk around here. I've got all the air shift components and enough extras to have back up shifting and clutch or maybe try something trick like an "air e-brake" if i can't find some other imaination driven tid-bit to add with the extra parts.

              I guess i'll stop writing you a book and just ask my question. Basically, if i'm putting down this kind of effort and buying this much chro-mo for a "toy", then i want that chassis to be flat, low and true and not have to build a jig that costs 3 times the chassis just to get it straight. DO you have any pointers? I've been doing this a long time (welding and chassis/suspension work), I have read a lot of books and tried a lot of things, but i'm still constantly learning and improving technique, so if you have anything mayb even some "old timer's tricks" or anything like that i'd love to hear em.
              Last edited by turboglenn; 11-05-2008, 12:42 AM.

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              • #8
                Looks cool!!!
                Can't wait to see the finished product.

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                • #9
                  thanks everyone....i posted a pic of me racing mine its a 443cc banshee and made 116hp ran 300ft in 3.9 seconds at 80 mph....wont have pics of this one racing till next summer...But i am using .065 chro molly and actually just using a mig....I know alot of people dont agree with this but i have read alot about it and people seem to be torn on which is actually better i mean i know tig is better and has a smaller haz but i just bought my first tig and havnt even turned it on yet i still have to learn how to tig....And i built my own jig to keep the a-arms true and straight didnt cost me anything just stuff we already had...Ill get some pics of it also while im building the a-arms.....i wish i could give you more info but i am also just learning and improving my techniques...I actually am only 18 and this is only the 3rd chassis i have done...i have bought alot of new equipment lately and this is the first frame i have got to use it on....I can say from experiance i will never hesitate to buy good equipment the first time from now on it makes projects so much easy....
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Wow! I wouldn't have been able to resist opening the TIG up and striking an arc after buying one, i can't wait to use any "new toy" when i get one though.

                    As long as you're not hearing a lot of "tink" noises (the chro-mo cracking) You'll be okay for the most part. I use to MIG a lot of 4130 and learned that pre and post heating are big helpers when using that material. Probably more important than pre-heating is the post heating to slow the cooling process down.

                    AS for now, get that TIG out and strike an arc and burn some rods. When learning TIG or when TIG welding in odd positions you'll find you almost spend more time pointing up your tungsten than you will welding because you dipped it in the puddle 3 times in a one inch bead (at least that's what it was like for me). So make sure to have plenty of tungsten and a grinder to sharpen them with before geting started... I had 3 sticks of 2% thoriated and a 4.5 inch angle grinder on hand when i got my dynasty home and it served me well until i was able to bring a grinder home to have a dedicated sharpening wheel. Although I have a wheel on a bench grinder for them at home, in the field I usually find myself shaping them up on a grinding wheel and then using a sanding disk to remove the grinding marks... SMoothing them out on a paper wheel really helps improve arc stability and overall welding.

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                    • #11
                      yea i really want to start practicing with the tig i bought it used its a syncrowave 250 and the mig i have is a millermatic 140 but the only thing i need is to get gas for my tig and then i can start practicing.....Cant wait until i can use it on these frames it will make them look alot cleaner.....

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                      • #12
                        I got the front end done tonight i should be able to post some more pics tomm....Forgot my camera today....seems like everytime i build something i forget to take pics lol

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                        • #13
                          Sweet looking action shot!!!

                          I always seem to forget my camera too.

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                          • #14
                            here are the pics of what i finished last night and also a couple pics of the jig i built so i can build the a-arms.....Let me know what you guys think.....
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              thats great man!!
                              what are you using to bend the tubing??

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