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    Hi guys. I've just gotten back into welding after a long absence. Doing it right this time with a Dyn 200DX.

    I've decided to document my progress (and show my friends/familly what I'm up to) by putting up images (with comments) as I go along.
    Other new people who may be looking for ideas or inspiration may find something of interest here:

    I know my welds mostly suck right now... They are so bad that I'm not even at the point of asking "how can I improve this?" yet... But be assured that when I get to that point I'll be asking...

    My goals are simply to use this period of free time that I have to get to the point of being able to stick bits of aluminum and SS together as my designs call for it... I have designed quite a lot of stuff out of marine grade aluminum and SS in the past, and always had to outsource the work... even small jobs....

    Thanks for looking/commenting!


  • #2
    There's some nice stuff in there, you shouldn't be so down on your own work, we all can and do improve with time so that's nothing to worry about (as you don't seem to be either)

    I just got a Dyn 200dx a few months ago and fell completely in love with this machine, you couldn't have picked a finer work/hobby welder IMO

    Keep the pics and progress reports coming!


    • #3
      congrats on the new Dyn200's to both of ya.
      i picked up a TA-185 a few years back and love TIG welding. its a great way to relax and just melt stuff. well it is now, at first it was a bit more of an aggravation than a relaxer. but with a little time it gets more fun every time.
      hang in there, it just keeps getting better. i just wish i had more reasons to play with mine.

      great lil projects.
      just wondering, whats the grinder holder supposed to do ???
      if its to use the front for a grinding surface, be careful with the disk getting thin and flying apart. i would make the stand to accommodate flap disks, that would be a good safe grinding option as the backing would keep it solid.


      • #4
        Tell us about your torch on that dynasty and maybe a close up of your holder


        • #5
          For what your doing, I think your welds look very good. Sure there is room for improvement but I believe there is in all of us. I dont think anybody expects to get back into it and lay a perfect bead.

          When it comes to tig, I can do it but my welds do not look near as good as your worst one. If I had a tig setup, I would practice a lot but I do mostly stick and just got myself a mig.


          • #6
            Originally posted by KBar View Post
            For what your doing, I think your welds look very good. Sure there is room for improvement but I believe there is in all of us. I dont think anybody expects to get back into it and lay a perfect bead.

            When it comes to tig, I can do it but my welds do not look near as good as your worst one. If I had a tig setup, I would practice a lot but I do mostly stick and just got myself a mig.

            Exactly, i can take a week off and lay a chicken poop bead the first time i crank the pedal up, then within a few minutes i'm back on track. That's why i'm constantly practicing (or at least for me, it's a good reason to burn some filler rod and gas..gotta keep up on my A game LOL )


            • #7
              Thanks for all the kind remarks. I am feeling pretty good about how it's gone for the first week of my first forrey into tig welding. I keep joining bits and bending em, expecting them to fall apart at a sneeze... but they _mostly_ stay stuck.

              Of course I'd like em to stay stuck and look pretty... but hopefully that will come.

              The grinder stand makes my angle grinder into a chop-saw... It allowed me to cut the SS rod for the wine rack with a higher degree of precision... I also find it allows me to cut small pieces out by leaving it down and pushing the work into the 1mm cut-off wheel's front.

              The Tig Torch is made by ParWeld (supposed to be a quality maker of the torches).. it's an ER26 type and I've got a gas lens on it and collets for 1.6mm and 2.4mm tungstens, and #6 / #8 cups. I've got a button and finger-wheel in the torch, but am using a miller foot-pedal as I find that I need to come down on the heat near the ends of my welds, and moving my finger to the control was messing up my welds...

              I paid through the nose for the welder over here in The Netherlands, but it's a CE approved unit (sales-guy says it's made to a different standard for Europe??) I could have saved 300 euro by getting them to order in a NA unit, but I'd have had to wait a few weeks and didn't want to.. =) I also could have saved 1000 euros by buying it in Canada this summer and putting it my luggage, but was unsure if any breakage on the plane would be covered... or the the customs guys wouldn't put the squeeze on me.

              I'm loving it already, though I have nothing much to compare it to.. my couple days of tig play 10 years ago was on some monster of a unit that didn't do AC. My fan comes on after a few seconds of welding, no matter how low amperage I use and then goes off in half a minute again... I'm guessing this is normal??

              The torch holder is just a small bar-clamp with the paint ground off so it wouldn't melt in the heat and smell...

              Last edited by araspitfire; 10-19-2008, 10:46 AM.


              • #8
                cool as a chop saw sounds like a neat idea.
                keep at it, TIG just keeps getting better and more fun the more you keep at it. and now that you have your own in the shop out back its all fun from here on out.


                • #9
                  New images

                  I've updated my progress gallery with a couple of new pojects:

                  And I'm ready for some critique on an aluminum weld.

                  I'm not sure what the composition of this bit of scrap is.. It was very soft so could very well be 1000 series (or whatever they call it here in Europe) It's 4mm thick and I was using 180Hz 67% at something under 130A on my Dyn 200DX. considering this is perhaps inches 15 to 19 of my total aluminum welding experience thus far, I'm pretty happy with it, but would like to hear how to make it better, what to look for, etc.

                  Going to the gallery will show you a progression of welds to that point, and the images of the finished box show the ends welded on, where I didn't use rod, but just melted the oversized corners down.

                  Thanks for looking, and any comments.



                  • #10
                    i think you are a bit cold still. it looks like its sitting on more than melting in.
                    some of your other pic's wile not as nice looking, look like better holding welds. i boxed in a section on one of your other welds that looks a bit better. you need to make shore the bas aluminum is melting in, not just the filler spreading out a bit. on an inside corner the weld should be a bit concaved looking as it melts into the 2 sides.(see pic on VS in) thats what it should look like as you add filler, you want to see both pieces just at the flow point. some use pulse to help keep the puddle from flowing out on ya, i just add filler to cool it just be for it gives way.
                    have you cut open any of your welds to look at how much penetration you are getting ??
                    keep in mind i'm still fairly new at this myself (about 2 years) and all i can see is a pic. and wile a pic is worth a 1000 words, it cant show all.
                    i would try more heat.

                    do some welds and brake them and cut them across to get a good idea of the penetration you are getting. and never get frustrated, you can always do it again.
                    Attached Files


                    • #11
                      Yea, I guess it's hard to see in the pictures... My close-up image is centered on the box in your picture...

                      I'm at the point where I get these huge meltdowns when I run it at recommended current. I haven't figure out the 'cooling it down with filler' thing yet.

                      Must try harder....

                      Thanks for taking the time to help.



                      • #12
                        You need some work on your consistency but that comes with experience. If you get a meltdown running at the recommended settings then you need to dip your filler a little quicker or just plain move a little faster if your fusing two pieces together. Aluminum is a tricky beast, you look like your doing pretty well for such limited experience.


                        • #13
                          you can use your foot peddle to cool a little as well as filler till you get a better hang of it.
                          its all about smooth consistent heat, dip, move, repeat. the puddle will start to jell as you add cold filler to it, then move forward and do it again. aluminum takes a bit of filler too. more like a push then a dip. i like about 1/8-3/16" of filler then move and do it again. if you need to you can back off the peddle a tad (don't shut it down, just back off a tad) to help with the cooling. or you can use the pulse feature. many use the pulse to help with getting a consistent dab and move rhythm going. you might try that out a little see how you like it. for the most part its still all going to come down to putting in the torch time to get good, smooth, consistent beads.

                          don't be discouraged, you ARE off to a great start. trust me i have seen a lot worse form people with way more time in than you. so stick with it and soon it will be 2nd hand to ya.


                          • #14
                            Nice improvement

                            wish my beads looked like yours. I am still in th chicken residue stage.


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