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Building a sound proof door

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  • Building a sound proof door

    I am building a sound proof room to run a dynamometer. The room is inside a concrete block building with a 10' ceiling and wood trussed roof.

    The big issue, there are two residential garage doors on either end of the 20' W x 40' L room. I need to insulate the doors and make them as air tight as possible with gaskets, but I'm still afraid I'll only be able to achieve an STC rating of something like 20, most of my walls will be in the 55-65 STC range, and I need my doors to be at least 40 STC.

    Only one of the 16'w x 8'h garage doors concerns me, as the other one is facing towards a direction that noise won't concern me much.

    I have thought about installing a commercial roll up door on the outside of the building, but those things are not air tight and even the insulated ones have very little R value (more insulation = more noise reduction and higher STC rating, to some extent).

    Thoughts? maybe build some type of multi piece door that swings side to side or up and down on hinges? and that I can gaskets around the edges to reduce noise transmission.

  • #2
    I would frame the inside of the garage door to hold 2- 8x8 Doors that swing open.

    Make the Doors a foot thick, fill the interior with Insulation and skin each side with Drywall.

    The increase in Air Space will increase the STC number

    12" Air Space with insulation should give 20-22db increase perhaps more with the garage door down.

    This is just a guess from being around Sound Stages.

    Comment


    • #3
      Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
      to keep the cold out in the winter.

      Often what is done is to fit styrofoam insulation panels to the
      inside of the door -- cutting/trimming/beveling/etc so that all
      the mechanisms still work, that there is clearance, and so on.
      To keep the cold air (and snow and ...) from infiltrating around
      the perimeter of the door, a heavy vinyl weatherstrip is used.
      As the door closes, it rubs up against the strip, forming a wind-tight
      seal. That might do it for you.

      Frank

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by fjk View Post
        To keep the cold air (and snow and ...) from infiltrating around
        the perimeter of the door, a heavy vinyl weatherstrip is used.
        As the door closes, it rubs up against the strip, forming a wind-tight
        seal. That might do it for you.

        Frank
        Do you have any pics or info of the seal used?

        Comment


        • #5
          Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
          to keep the cold out in the winter
          I would say its more widely used to keep the heat in.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fjk View Post
            Here in the north, insulating garage doors is not uncommon
            to keep the cold out in the winter....
            It's just as valuable in the Las Vegas summer, my friend! And where the small cutouts are for the hinges the darn parts are often too hot to touch if the door faces west. The one I move into next week faces east!

            Home Depot sells kits to do the whole door's interior spaces. After I install that, I purchase 2" styrofoam insulation and glue on a custom layer over the top.

            But back to the OP, I'd go with the Veggie's idea.
            Last edited by MAC702; 10-19-2008, 08:02 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Sberry View Post
              I would say its more widely used to keep the heat in.
              well, a bit of both perhaps

              i once had a garage door that was a bit loose. right beside the door
              was an exposed water pipe for the outside spigot. the looseness
              of the door was "just right" and it focussed a jet of nice frigid
              air directly at the water pipe, freezing it solid... eventually i
              moved the inside shut off valve farther back.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Justin00Stang View Post
                Do you have any pics or info of the seal used?
                no -- my garage now is an unheated detached building -- no need
                for it.

                but here's a product from home depot's web site.
                (if the link fails, search for "weather seal"
                and you should be able to find it as
                "7 In. x 9 Ft. White Garage Door Weatherstrip Seal"

                http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100154969

                frank

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by MAC702 View Post
                  It's just as valuable in the Las Vegas summer, my friend!
                  Las Vegas summer heat won't freeze & burst pipes
                  But I expect it does help keep the A/C bill down...

                  Originally posted by MAC702 View Post
                  But back to the OP, I'd go with the Veggie's idea.
                  My impression from the OP was that he already had the doors,
                  etc and (presumably) wasn't in a position to make a double
                  door. If he could, I agree that it would be the best.

                  frank

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I think Ed is suggesting a second door of low-cost construction, solely for insulation value, put just inside the real door; not getting a fancy double-door or even modifying the existing door.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sound walls are made by offset studs on double thick walls. The studs from one side don't transmit mechanically to the sheathing on the other (which acts like a drum). 1' of air space might even be excessive, but Ed's got the right idea.

                      My solution for the shop here was to sheathe the entire outside with 1.5" pink high density foam as an underlayment to the insulated siding. Combined with the R19 and 5/8" sheetrock, it's very effective (and has an R value approaching 30). I can barely hear my air compressor on the other side of the wall from it. All seams were taped with house-wrap red tape.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Some good thoughts here. I did use double stud construction in part of the building (since its overall 40x60 but the sound proof room is only 40x20). I know roll up doors are only good for 10db reduction (I have about 100db total, and would like to get that down to 60-70db), but if I did add another roll up door that was 8-10" from the existing garage door I may get 15 or 20db reduction, due to the air space and isolation effect. I bought some of those big blue foam sheets today to play with, I am going to stuff them into the door and do a before and after db test, and then also build a wall with them on the outside to see how much DB is reduced.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Have you looked at the stuff commercially sold for sound studios, the precut foam that looks like a bunch of wedges so sound doesn't bounce?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Actually, the wedges are designed to absorb and diffract the waves. When they reflect (which does happen, even off foam), they're sent a different direction than their source as to prevent echos from being picked up in recording (which can cause smearing or even phase cancellation).

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              True, Jim; thanks for the clarification. In fact, the serious sound studios (I know you know this, I'm just rambling...) have no walls parallel to one another to further help. This includes floor and ceiling, too.

                              Comment

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