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Plasma screen stands

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  • Plasma screen stands

    I've been procrastinating long enough and need to knock out eight freestanding supports for some plasma screens to go in some corporate place somewhere.

    Short story is they get a 3/8" thick x 32" diameter steel base, which also gets a 5" x 1/8" skirt. Two 3" OD tubes rise up about 60" and a 1/8" plate gets welded between them to which the factory bracket mounts, and then the screens will hang from that.

    Here's the start:

    1) Eight bases, the template, and the drop. Heavy metal.
    2) Eight mounting plates waiting to bridge the gap.
    3) The bases get bolted to the ground, but they still need to be levelled, so I'm making three adjustable pads for each base, which will get welded to the underside of the disks and be concealed by the skirt. Parts is parts.
    4) My super fancy jig.
    5) Zing-bang.

    Thanks for looking.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Sweet!

    Comment


    • #3
      What does the finished product look like?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by NAS-NAS View Post
        What does the finished product look like?
        I don't know yet... . Check back in a couple of weeks.

        Once completed, they will get an automotive paint finish.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey Nice work!!

          That stuff looks great! I only wish I had the refined tecnique you show here!
          I have a Dyn200dx and I love it! I assume that is what you accomplised these weld with!?
          Again,,,good work!!
          MB

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by mulugod View Post
            That stuff looks great! I only wish I had the refined tecnique you show here!
            I have a Dyn200dx and I love it! I assume that is what you accomplised these weld with!?
            Again,,,good work!!
            MB
            Thanks for the kind words.

            Actually, I used my Passport to weld up those adjustable feet. Quick and easy.

            It's all in the planning, really. Not much to the welding. You'd be surprised.

            Comment


            • #7
              progress

              Here are some progress pictures.

              The skirt/rings are rolled from 1/8" x 5" material. I have to roll them in two halves. Therefore, the halves must be left long, then trimmed to size to fit the base.

              Question: How do you trim the flats off of the rolled halves?
              Answer: I have a shop full of bandsaws, but I'm using a vintage hand shear I picked up for $80.

              The shear rolls the ends a bit (as shears do), so we have to flatten them out with an expensive flattening machine.

              1) Rolled halves. These were rolled on my home-made roller (see other post).

              2) Jigged.

              3) Fancy, expensive cutting tool.

              4) Expensive, complicated flattening machine

              5) Detail of underside.

              Thanks for looking.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 09-05-2008, 01:04 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                base

                Picture of the base. There will be eight of these.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  If your shear is rolling the edge then the blades are not sharpened or not adjusted correctly. There should be no rolled edge on a sheared plate.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MMW View Post
                    If your shear is rolling the edge then the blades are not sharpened or not adjusted correctly. There should be no rolled edge on a sheared plate.
                    I should clarify. The blades make a clean cut. I wrote that it rolled the edge, which is misleading. The cut is clean, but the plate distorts/curls over the 5" width. This hand shear has a 4" blade, so I have to take the cut in two bites.

                    Every shear I've ever used distorts the metal to some degree. Every piece of metal I've had sheared by someone else has been distorted to some degree. This applies to manual, electric, hydraulic, whatever. Every piece of paper I've cut with a pair of scissors has a curl to it.

                    When I need to cut something with no distortion, I use a saw... or a water jet.

                    On a similar note, I use a drill press (or water jet) to cut holes rather than a punch, which distorts the metal.

                    Thanks for looking.
                    Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 09-05-2008, 12:45 PM. Reason: clarity

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Chris*** - Just a question. Why do you have to roll the rings in halves?

                      Thanks.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        With pretty much any 3 point roller you end up with a flat on the beginning and end of the raw stock which accounts for the distance between the center and outside roll. You can roll the ring to compensate for the excess, or you can roll it to diameter and half it like Chris does.

                        If you don't mind 2 seams, Chris's way is faster and easier. Especially with thicker material, you end up fighting it when you reach diameter with the excess for the ends.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You can roll some stock with one seam, like the wheel I made from 1" round tube for my roller. Stock like this has enough spring to it that you can pull it to the side of the machine to complete the circle.

                          Like Jim said, 5" flat bar doesn't have a lot of give, so I did it in halves.

                          I was originally going to have another fabricator (who has MUCH more experience than I do) roll these up for me. We talked about it and he said he would probably do it in halves for the same reasons. He also mentioned that the end result would have a truer radius. With more projects lining up, I decided to make my own roller, but I still took his advice and did it in halves.

                          I'm not sure if I could have done it in one piece. It's too late to find out for this job.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You have to have the stock cut to length which includes the "Flats" at each end.

                            Example: 6" Ring
                            Circumference = 18.84

                            then add however much material is taken up by the Flat at each end by the type of roller you are using.



                            So if it is 2" then the stock is cut to 22.84"

                            Place the stock in the roller like in the Photo, apply a little pressure, roll through one way till you reach the "Flat", apply pressure, roll it back.

                            Repeat until you have the ring size. Towards the end you'll have to nudge the ends so the flats over lap until the "Flats" match up. remove and cut the flats off.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Broccoli1 View Post
                              You have to have the stock cut to length which includes the "Flats" at each end.

                              Example: 6" Ring
                              Circumference = 18.84

                              then add however much material is taken up by the Flat at each end by the type of roller you are using.



                              So if it is 2" then the stock is cut to 22.84"

                              Place the stock in the roller like in the Photo, apply a little pressure, roll through one way till you reach the "Flat", apply pressure, roll it back.

                              Repeat until you have the ring size. Towards the end you'll have to nudge the ends so the flats over lap until the "Flats" match up. remove and cut the flats off.

                              Good explanation.
                              Now someone show me a picture with some 5" x 1/8" (or equivalent) material.

                              Comment

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