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  • #61
    Originally posted by turbo38t View Post
    Lookin at all u pics I wish I could go back and just relax in my chair welding adaptors on 10 yard pc1000 buckets......seemed like it was a day an adaptor.......why did you piece the blade together on that excavator blade? The owner didn't want to spend the money for a bent blade? Dave
    Hi Dave, around these parts there is only a couple of places that are willing or able to press brake 1 offs of stuff like that in widths over 8 feet. Since the owner of the machine was most concerned with time involved, then budget, then function, and then aesthetics, I was able to save him a bit of money and time by using a couple of flat pieces for the blade. Having it formed would have looked nicer but would have cost more and taken a while until I had it to put together. Had he wanted it formed, it would have been fine by me, just would have cost a bit more.
    hre

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    • #62
      Originally posted by MR.57 View Post
      There's some gorgeous pics in there. May I ask what rod you are using to weld the shanks on those excavator buckets?
      Thank you. I generally used Lincoln Excalibur 7018. Sometimes I'd use 11018 if I felt it was warranted, such as on a rock bucket.
      hre

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      • #63
        Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
        Originally posted by pcwelder View Post
        Thanks coalsmoke, I use 6010 for the root only because I seem to be able to control it better in out of position stuff. Then once there is some thermal mass i can lay in the 223 (7018) with more confidence. I run 1/8" 223 @ 103 Amps for all my flat and horizontal work, the slag is almost self lifting when the heat is in that 'sweet spot'.

        Thanks again will be posting more pics when available.

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        • #64
          Coalsmoke, nice work man!

          I look foward to seeing your full site in the future

          -Josh
          www.facebook.com/browndogwelding

          Blog at TheFabricator.com

          www.browndogwelding.com

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          • #65
            Thanks Josh, you've got some seriously crazy stuff in your gallery. I like that 429 stang!
            hre

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            • #66
              Originally posted by turbo38t View Post
              Seems a bit cold for 1/8 7018 especially if you run a tight bead. I run 7018 anywheres between 115 and 135 depending on the situation. Dave
              Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.
              hre

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              • #67
                Originally posted by Coalsmoke View Post
                Naw, depends on the machine, the application of the piece, and other factors, like if you have a 300*F preheat on it. On the trailblazer 302 it had a hot and watery arc, and I was finding that I was often in the 95-105A range when burning 1/8 7018. I figure a person shouldn't be too concerned with the numbers, just set it up so its working right for you, your job and your particular machine.
                x2 for sure
                www.facebook.com/browndogwelding

                Blog at TheFabricator.com

                www.browndogwelding.com

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                • #68
                  Beads

                  Originally posted by SignWave View Post
                  We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

                  Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
                  I looked at your welds, they are oxidixed, this happens from welding too hot or not properly shielding the material or a combination of both.Stainless steel needs to be shielded from the backside to prevent this from happening,when stainless steel oxidizes it refuses to flow.The welders natural tendency is to increase heat which makes the problem worse.There are other variables that can contribute to dirty welds, such as tungsten size,rod feeding techniques,dirty material, dirty tungsten, etc.

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                  • #69
                    try using a gas lense to keep the argon purge dispersed,,, good argon coverage and good heat ranges give you the pretty colors. Cook it and youll see black every time.

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                    • #70
                      I can only dream to end up as you guys!
                      I almost lost an internal organ looking at some of these beads.. lol

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                      • #71
                        Paul,
                        As a senior member and having a few years in the trade you should be aware of the dangers of having a o2 tank inside the shop whitout being purged. Welding should never be done while product is still in the tank, you are setting a bad example for all the young guns out there, we should be teaching them how to be safe in the workplace.

                        Doug.

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                        • #72
                          welding stainless

                          Originally posted by SignWave View Post
                          We havent had any beads around here in a while. I'd love to see some decent Stainless welds- seeing as how thats where my troubles have been lately. Anyone care to share?

                          Ive pasted 4 pics. Four different levels of competance. 4 pics, 4 minutes of experience....
                          Remember if weld is black or dark gray in color like oxidized then there is a few things to keep in mind. One /amps used want you want use as little as possible ,stainless does dissipate heat well so easy to over heat. Stainless has a lower melting point then that of steel. Gas flow 17 to 20cfh. Electrode to work distance is also important with stainless the closer the better 1/16 of and inch, to long increases arc volts. Then you want the biggest sheilding cup you can like a 10. That gives you better gas coverage so atmostphere doesnt hit the bead when it is hot. that is the most common that causes the color of the bead.

                          good luck
                          Last edited by youweldititestit; 12-14-2008, 03:46 PM.

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by youweldititestit View Post
                            stainless does dissipate heat well so easy to over heat.
                            It's actually the opposite. SS does not dissipate heat very well (in comparison to mild steel, aluminum etc...). It's easy to overheat because the heat stays in such a small area and doesn't dissipate from the weld zone.
                            Thermal Arc 185TSW, Lincoln SP135+, 4-post automotive hoist, 2x media blast cabinets, 50 ton press, 80gal air compressor, 4-1/2"x6" bandsaw, 4'x4' Torchmate CNC table with plate marker, Hypertherm Powermax 65 plasma cutter, ultrasonic cleaning stations

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                            • #74
                              Well here goes. Some of the work I do at my job.

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                              • #75
                                Love to see this stuff

                                I'm new to welding and this is exactly the kind of stuff I like to see. I've had no formal training so seeing what the big guns do gives me a point to aim for. Thanks Guys

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