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  • #16
    Originally posted by dabeldesign View Post
    with 20' sticks of steel there would definitely be a problem with this rack. I only built the front part that protects the cab, not the full rack like you have so tying things down is a bit different.
    More tie down points will definitely go in the revised design. Thanks for the advice.

    Oh and no whistling
    Yeah, I wasn't sure if your rack was just one or two. Just one it makes more sense.
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    • #17
      You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
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      • #18
        Originally posted by lanceman73 View Post
        You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
        That is some great advice right there! Smart thinkin'
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        • #19
          Originally posted by lanceman73 View Post
          You should put a weight limit on them if you're going to sell them. Think of liabilaty. I made some and the worked fine, but you never know what people will do. Insurance is the best policy.
          I absolutely agree! I need to figure out what the weight limit should be exactly and maybe, if I really get into selling these, I can stamp the max weight into the rack.

          Thanks for all the advice and input guys! It's interesting to see other people's views and knowledge from around the nation (and maybe further) applied to my project.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by dabeldesign View Post
            Oh and about the "buffer" I still need to pick up some rubber matting. Any good sources for something like that besides McMaster-Carr or the obvious Home Depot?
            I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by DSW View Post
              I looked for rubber material to bufer my rack that I am working on. After a bit of thinking on where I could get some medium sized pieces I remembered some PVC shower liner that I have left over from a job. Lowes and HD sell it by the foot as well as in sheets in the plumbing dept. If you know a tile guy, you might be able to grab some of his scraps cheap.
              I will check that out. Thanks DSW!

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              • #22
                Think of liability
                the first thing i thought when i was it was that hook is right at eye hight. you might think of making it a U shape on the end. maybe stupid idea, but lots of stupid people out there getting rich suing hard working people that didn't make some thing stupid proof. just a little food for thought.
                thanks for the help
                ......or..........
                hope i helped
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                • #23
                  What's with the sides and front on the mounting flange? I don't see the reason for those pieces, but I sure see a nice spot for leaves, needles and other crud to collect. Obviously you put them on for a reason - please enlighten me. If it is for stiffening - why not just use a heavier plate?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Big_Eddy View Post
                    What's with the sides and front on the mounting flange? I don't see the reason for those pieces, but I sure see a nice spot for leaves, needles and other crud to collect. Obviously you put them on for a reason - please enlighten me. If it is for stiffening - why not just use a heavier plate?
                    Yes it is for stiffening. Also, I originally thought I could put another hook on that plate but since I decided to make it out of 1/8" plate, I thought it might be a little weak. I could always make it out of heavier plate but I thought this way would be easier to form and just as stiff (with the gusset) and lightweight.
                    I do see your point about leaves and junk collecting in there. I didn't think so much about that as I did about water collecting there, which is why I left a small opening at the back corner.
                    All very good points though. Thanks for the input!

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                    • #25
                      home depot sells a 3" S hook that is about 1/4"dia. A quick slice with a cut-off wheel and you have 2 u shaped loops for tie downs. they cost a whopping .98 . You can't make them for less. Plenty strong.
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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by STRENGTH AND POWER View Post
                        home depot sells a 3" S hook that is about 1/4"dia. A quick slice with a cut-off wheel and you have 2 u shaped loops for tie downs. they cost a whopping .98 . You can't make them for less. Plenty strong.
                        That's not a bad idea but all the ones I have ever seen are galvanized or plated. I would rather not spend the time sanding/grinding that off and/or breathing it while welding.
                        I just bought a 20' stick of 1/2" rod for a few bucks (can't remember exact price) and I have a simple jig on my welding table to bend the hook shape.

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                        • #27
                          Nice!

                          I like the simplicity of your design. I just can't figure out why you didn't form your metal around the bottom post? Here in Canada, the snow and salt would sit in there and rust it quick! I have found one thing with truck racks, you can't put enough tie down points on them!LOL What I do is go to my local Parts for Trucks every 6 months or so and get all the cut chain links from when they sell pieces of chain. I usually get about 100 links, and a few minutes with a vice and a big hammer makes them straight and the cut gets filled when you weld it on anyway. The best part is they are Free!
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                          • #28
                            Attachment

                            Originally posted by dabeldesign View Post
                            I just finished this new rack design for late model Chevy's and eventually other trucks. I kept the design simple and somewhat lightweight so that it can ship UPS. (I'm going to try and start selling these but that's not why i'm posting it here)
                            The rack mounts to the front stake pockets in the bed by a simple plate with a nut welded on the backside that sandwiches the edges of the stake pockets between it and the rack. It is surprisingly strong and means no drilling.
                            Paint is done by the advice of Dabar; rustoleum rusty metal primer and gloss black thinned 20% or so and applied with an HVLP spraygun. Worked great, thanks Dabar!

                            If there's any obvious design flaws, point them out! (no screen is not one of them..that's intentional)
                            I am not real clear how the nut and bolt are attached without drilling. Although it does look very nice.

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