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1 BEST 6 Y/O HELPER IN THE WORLD
2 VICTOR O/A TORCHES
LINCOLN SP 175 PLUS
4 EACH 20 TON JACKS
SEVERAL LESSER TON JACKS
LOTS OF HAMMERS MISC SIZES
BIG PILE OF MISC TOOLS
CLASS A CDL'S
C7500 FLAT BED
HOME MADE GANTRY CRANE
SOME GOOD COMMON SENSE (I THINK)
TRACTOR WITH NEW HEAVY DUTY LIFT POLE -- FIND MY THREAD
6 GOATS, 1 DOG, 1 DONKEY...
ON AND ON AND ON...
The ones that I have built up here are much the same, with a couple of extra steps - Everything built for the oilpatch, construction, or forestry.
On the winch tractor tow aprons, we run 3/4" plate for the apron, then wrap the lower edge and sides with flat bar. Anything from 3/4" x 4" to 1" x 3" depending on customer.
Gravel truck and log truck tow aprons same thing. Depending on who you work for, and their particular "spec".... I have seen the apron wraps as deep as 4" around the bottom edge, and 6" to 12" deep at the top where it attaches to main frame.
Winch tractor aprons are welded to the ramp/roll assembley then bolted on. Some weld them to the frame, but I don't - They are a nightmare to repair.
Gravel truck and log truck aprons are usually part of a removable frame insert.
I see that your pintle hitch is quite high, so the reinforcement that I do here is unneccessary in your application.
You ever use the pintle hitch with the air-activated slack compensator??? A little extra work but the end product is nice to tow with - No hammering.
I have not used a air slack hitch but have installed 40ton ring with a heavyduty spring built on the back side to absorb shock.These usally go in 10whlr or tri-axle applications and those run with 1"or 3/4" plate.Also thanks for the compliments guys.Just another day here at shop.
Great work! I have to fab and install one on my dad's Ford L8000 dump. I'm not quite sure how thick is apropriate though. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm not quite sure just what factors I need to consider in the design process But I have a general Idea of what to do.
nice looking thanks for the pics.
We have all 15 and 25 ton pintle hooks with spring cushion where I work. Pretty tough, but they do work on them as some trucks pull a trailer almost everyday.
I would think 3/4-inch at least! But one may be able to go thinner with the proper design. Skip weld say 3/4 x 2-inch flatbar criss-crossed on the backside, (like an X). Any thinner than 3/4-inch plate and I would be thinking on the lines of a * pattern. A truck that size I would go with 3/4-inch plate, and still weld strong backs on the backside. Could also look at welding or bolting a diagonal brace from the backside of the pintle hitch back to a cross member in the truck frame. Or go with a < shape and bolt into the truck frame in two places.
If you donít have a proven design it is easier to over do it at first, than repair it later!
Thanks for the advice! My dad has a general idea of how to do it but there's some key strength requirements that he dosn't know how to design. I'll ask him what his load requirements are to get a better idea.