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  • #16
    IT,S OK NOW ,I SAW THE PICTURES, I THINK IT WAS MY MISTAKE .

    NICE WORK ON THE WINDOWS

    I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU DARK HELMET , DID YOU WELD A PIECE OF STEEL TO HOLD THE WINDOW IN PLACE .

    Bobby
    FABRICATION-CRÉATION K ZEN

    MILLERMATIC 210
    SPOOLMATE 3035
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    HYPERTHERM 360

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    • #17
      Welded piece?

      Hey,

      Do you mean where the glazing stop is? The piece that holds the glass pane against the "T" bar frames from the outside? If so, then yeah, I tack welded steel stops onto the outside with 2 small tack beads.

      We went back and forth about that a lot. I wanted to drill and tap them for serviceability, but there were so many! 4 stops on each pane (top, bottom, both sides), 2 holes/ taps per stop makes 8 holes per pane and 8 holes in each section of the frame that the screw would thread into as well. 40 panes! That makes 16 holes and 8 taps per pane (and countersinking).

      That comes to a grand total of 640 holes and 320 taps. Not to mention making sure that they're all in the exact right place so that everything lines up, holds the panes at the right place and is actually able to be screwed in when it was done. And they were being painted so there's the issue of paint in the holes/ threads... You get the picture... it was a **** of a lot more work. Work we just didn't have time for.

      So I told them that if there was a problem, they could quickly cut the tacks with a cut-off wheel with a grinder, change the pane, and have someone out to re-tack them. Not as easy as a screwdriver, but also not the end of the world.

      Once they were tacked in, the tacks were primed (the stop material had already been pre-primed.) Then the metal to metal joints were caulked with Vulkem caulking (bronze). Then the whole unit was given another 2 coats of finish paint. Then the window pane to painted edge joints were caulked with clear silicone.

      Did that answer your question?
      I see your schwartz is as big as mine!

      Miller Passport Plus
      ESAB Mini Arc 150APS
      Various other nifty accouterments

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Dark Helmet View Post
        Hey,

        Do you mean where the glazing stop is? The piece that holds the glass pane against the "T" bar frames from the outside? If so, then yeah, I tack welded steel stops onto the outside with 2 small tack beads.

        We went back and forth about that a lot. I wanted to drill and tap them for serviceability, but there were so many! 4 stops on each pane (top, bottom, both sides), 2 holes/ taps per stop makes 8 holes per pane and 8 holes in each section of the frame that the screw would thread into as well. 40 panes! That makes 16 holes and 8 taps per pane (and countersinking).

        That comes to a grand total of 640 holes and 320 taps. Not to mention making sure that they're all in the exact right place so that everything lines up, holds the panes at the right place and is actually able to be screwed in when it was done. And they were being painted so there's the issue of paint in the holes/ threads... You get the picture... it was a **** of a lot more work. Work we just didn't have time for.

        So I told them that if there was a problem, they could quickly cut the tacks with a cut-off wheel with a grinder, change the pane, and have someone out to re-tack them. Not as easy as a screwdriver, but also not the end of the world.

        Once they were tacked in, the tacks were primed (the stop material had already been pre-primed.) Then the metal to metal joints were caulked with Vulkem caulking (bronze). Then the whole unit was given another 2 coats of finish paint. Then the window pane to painted edge joints were caulked with clear silicone.

        Did that answer your question?
        Good post! Thanks for the explanations, and again, beautiful work!!!!!!!
        I'm not late...
        I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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