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  • Tig welding project

    Well these kegs are part of an electric microbrewery Im constructing for a gentlemen in my brew club. Id just figured Id post my tig welds. Keep in mind this is my first time ever welding such thin metal, especially stainless steel this thin. I think the thickness is a 1/16 of an inch thick or 3/32.



    Last edited by usmcruz; 04-24-2008, 08:17 PM.
    If you want peace, be prepared for war!

  • #2
    Here are more pictures



    If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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    • #3
      yet more pictures



      By the way that solar flux is a b$tch to get off, Im thinking of messing with the fiber backing tape instead, what do you guys think?
      If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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      • #4
        Where are you putting the solar flux?
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        • #5
          i back gas with argon, solar flux when you can't. Since its a tank it should be pretty easy to back gas and much cleaner too.
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          • #6
            Originally posted by fabricator View Post
            Where are you putting the solar flux?

            I put the solar flux on the backside of the weld inside of the keg. I agree back purging would be better, but I dont have the money for another tank. Is there a way to incorporate a splitter into the hose i have now?
            If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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            • #7
              Yup. Put a Y conector after the regulator and turn your gas flow up a tad more. About 10 - 15 cfh higher on the flowmeter ought to do it.just remember to clean any welds that come in contact with the beer with nitric acid or it may taste like rust.

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              • #8
                Pretty darn good for a 1st timer!!! Looks like it fused enough!!! Wait till the test and see how it holds up!!!!!!!
                I'm not late...
                I'm just on Hawaiian Time

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Anti-GMAW View Post
                  Yup. Put a Y conector after the regulator and turn your gas flow up a tad more. About 10 - 15 cfh higher on the flowmeter ought to do it.just remember to clean any welds that come in contact with the beer with nitric acid or it may taste like rust.

                  Thanks buddy I will do that, but as for the Nitric acid, couldnt I scrub the welds with Barkeepers friends which is supposed to restore the stainless steels protective layer. By the way Barkeepers friend is made for stainless steel.



                  Thanks Bert, but the tests are out, all of my fittings dont leak except for the patch I tig welded where the owner of the kegs cut a whole into the keg. I made the patch with a 2 inch piece of stainless steel flat bar. Where I went wrong is grind the patches to try to blend them into the keg, and it caused a stress fracture. I went to tig weld the fracture and she opened up on me and I got drop thru .

                  I got a question for you all, how do you avoid the golf ***** on the inside of the keg on a normal tig weld. Even when I turn the heat down, the back side of the weld gets these small golf ***** like extra metal shot out the back, but the weld on the front looks ok. I even turned down my heat to 50 amps, I just dont understand it. Im welding directly on the outside of the keg and not a joint so I believe I dont need to back flush it, or is this my problem. Here is a picture,

                  Outside of the weld before cleanup


                  Inside of the keg of the same tig weld. The middle of the patch you can see where the holes in the keg were. Im gonna grind them and blend them out to the patch.



                  I want you guys to be critical of me. Even though I went to 7 months of school, Im by no means an expert. I want you to all be critical so that I know what the **** Im doing wrong so that I dont repeat the same mistakes in the future.
                  Last edited by usmcruz; 04-27-2008, 11:35 PM.
                  If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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                  • #10
                    It's stainless... You need to back purge it, or use the paste. That's oxidation.
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
                      It's stainless... You need to back purge it, or use the paste. That's oxidation.


                      Thanks allot buddy, thats the information I needed to hear. So should I grind it all back and re-weld it. How do I treat the stainless steel now seeing that I have oxidation. Will it rust now, Pleas help!
                      Last edited by usmcruz; 04-28-2008, 10:27 AM.
                      If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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                      • #12
                        If you put some corks or plugs in the bung holes() then you can just fill it with argon and it will work ok. I usually fill it until a lighter will go out if held near the top fill hole. The splitter will work fine too, but you might need a restriction in back purge line so the torch gets enough gas. I find a small ball valve works just fine, you can throttle it that way. Fill it fast then choke it down to give the torch more flow. You could also get 2 flowmeters from HTP weld off of e-bay for 90 bucks and a western T fitting for 20 bucks more. Then you will be all set for next time.
                        Dynasty 200 DX
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                        Spectrum 375
                        All kinds of Smith OA gear

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                        • #13
                          Thank you for the advice. Im gonna do that next time. Did I royally screw up these welds though If I grind the golf ***** back?
                          If you want peace, be prepared for war!

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                          • #14
                            Stainless rusts really good when it gets hot enough. That's exactly why you need to back purge it.

                            Grinding the scale and crystals off down to base metal is all you need to do. With any luck, it'll just be a light surface issue.

                            If it were me, I'd get some dry ice. Toss it in there and start welding. No need to worry about plugging holes, as the dry ice will continue to sublimate the whole time. It's cheap, and readily available. Save your gas for the hot end of the process.
                            Syncrowave 250DX
                            Invison 354MP
                            XR Control and 30A

                            Airco MED20 feeder
                            Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                            Smith O/A rig
                            And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
                              If it were me, I'd get some dry ice. Toss it in there and start welding. No need to worry about plugging holes, as the dry ice will continue to sublimate the whole time. It's cheap, and readily available. Save your gas for the hot end of the process.
                              That works?
                              Today wasn't wasted after all!!!
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