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New Welding Talbe... Finished!

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  • #31
    Wasn't trying to be an @ss; sorry if I offended anyone.

    Was out riding and everyone seemed angry over the weekend and it was beautiful out (38 again now )

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by starweld View Post
      Do you have a wesite for Walker Industries? I googled them and didnt come up with anything.

      Thanks
      Nope. But you can get them here:

      http://www.ramweldingsupply.com/prod...ist.mcic?m=187

      Comment


      • #33
        I was curious to see if any of the professionals had anything to say about my tack/welding technique, since I have no formal fabrication training.

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        • #34
          Hi Tasslehawf,

          Good looking table. I like the sliding bar design and I like the way your final product looks exactly like your rendering. Your pics and commentary are great for this forum and are really what it's all about.

          For what it's worth, here are my $00 .02:

          Do you have any shielding gas coverage issues when you're welding outside? I realize you don't have a MIG, and those are pretty raw-dog materials to be TIGging... why don't you burn it all in with some stick rods? Your Maxstar is an outstanding SMAW machine. You could have just blasted the castors right to the plates (or just right across the tube frame) and avoided the stud/flat bar debaucle. Are you really planning on removing the castors any time soon? My assumption is that you're more proficient with GTAW than SMAW, but it could be good practice to develop another technique, especially one that is better suited for outdoor/windy conditions and "dirty" material.

          As far as keeping the frame square, it sounds like you're on the right track. My experience has been to jig and clamp where you can, tack it up, and weld it up. You can't stop the metal from moving, you can only find the best ways to control it. With time, you'll learn how to pull frames back into square by welding in the right places at the right times.

          Looks good, man. Most of what I've mentioned is hind-sight 20/20, or just an opinion. Thanks for sharing.

          I also own a Maxstar 200dx. I love it and switch back and forth between stick and TIG welding quite often. The 110V option is a dream for mobile work.

          Good luck.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by chris***@sbcglo View Post
            Do you have any shielding gas coverage issues when you're welding outside? I realize you don't have a MIG, and those are pretty raw-dog materials to be TIGging... why don't you burn it all in with some stick rods? Your Maxstar is an outstanding SMAW machine. You could have just blasted the castors right to the plates (or just right across the tube frame) and avoided the stud/flat bar debaucle. Are you really planning on removing the castors any time soon? My assumption is that you're more proficient with GTAW than SMAW, but it could be good practice to develop another technique, especially one that is better suited for outdoor/windy conditions and "dirty" material.
            I had another guy who made tables like this before me and he welded the casters on (mig). Now we were casting concrete on these tables, but eventually the caster plates broke off.

            Heh. I guess stick is too messy for my nature. I am very good at welding rebar with stick, but I haven't yet used it for anything else. I haven't tried it yet on my maxstar.

            As far as keeping the frame square, it sounds like you're on the right track. My experience has been to jig and clamp where you can, tack it up, and weld it up. You can't stop the metal from moving, you can only find the best ways to control it. With time, you'll learn how to pull frames back into square by welding in the right places at the right times.
            Yeah. What I do is a variation on this. I have found when I do my normal technique and something is torqued, I know where to weld to untorque it. I've found that welding everywhere is unnecessary even on these tables that are designed to hold 1000+ lbs of concrete.

            Looks good, man. Most of what I've mentioned is hind-sight 20/20, or just an opinion. Thanks for sharing.

            I also own a Maxstar 200dx. I love it and switch back and forth between stick and TIG welding quite often. The 110V option is a dream for mobile work.

            Good luck.
            Thanks. I really appreciate all the feedback.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by tasslehawf View Post
              I had another guy who made tables like this before me and he welded the casters on (mig). Now we were casting concrete on these tables, but eventually the caster plates broke off.

              [I]Sounds like either a caster, weldor, and/or design issue. [/I]

              Heh. I guess stick is too messy for my nature.

              [I]I use mostly GTAW and GMAW for my projects, but many of the cleanest welds I've seen were done by accomplished stick weldors.


              Thanks. I really appreciate all the feedback.
              You betcha.
              Last edited by chrisgay@sbcglo; 04-11-2008, 11:11 PM.

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              • #37
                Chris,

                I really haven't done any Stick that wasn't just rebar. People keep telling my machine is a great stick machine. Once I get my free time back (My current class is over with on Weds.), and I get my current welding project finished (due in a couple weeks), I'll have to play with the stick a little more.

                The caster we've been using have a chrome coating on the plates. Would this tend to contaminate the welds enough to keep them from being strong enough? Would stick yield a better weld in this case than mig?

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                • #38
                  All things being equal- each process yields the same strength

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by tasslehawf View Post
                    Chris,

                    I really haven't done any Stick that wasn't just rebar. People keep telling my machine is a great stick machine. Once I get my free time back (My current class is over with on Weds.), and I get my current welding project finished (due in a couple weeks), I'll have to play with the stick a little more.

                    The caster we've been using have a chrome coating on the plates. Would this tend to contaminate the welds enough to keep them from being strong enough? Would stick yield a better weld in this case than mig?
                    Did the Weld fail? or did the Steel on the caster rip away- the steel on the casters looks thin.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      He could just be a crappy Mig welder

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Broccoli1 View Post
                        Did the Weld fail? or did the Steel on the caster rip away- the steel on the casters looks thin.
                        This was probably case. I don't remember for sure.

                        I'm going to have to say the weld held the caster on it a way that the plate was not designed. I believe the plate bent and broke away.

                        I assume there are plates that ARE meant to be welded.

                        EDIT: I'd like to see someone mfg. studded plates for casters you can weld to your piece. Actually I could make these.
                        Last edited by tasslehawf; 04-12-2008, 02:27 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Bump. I don't want to loose you.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Caster plates typically are not meant to be welded. You cook the grease out of the bearings and possibly melt any seals that were present (cheap casters lack the seals, and some even lack the grease ).

                            That's not to say I don't do it too.

                            They wouldn't have bolt holes if they meant you to run a bead around `em.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Fishy Jim View Post
                              Caster plates typically are not meant to be welded. You cook the grease out of the bearings and possibly melt any seals that were present (cheap casters lack the seals, and some even lack the grease ).

                              That's not to say I don't do it too.

                              They wouldn't have bolt holes if they meant you to run a bead around `em.

                              Just burn 'em in and get the show on the road. Anymore, depending on the application, I usually just weld castors on. I'm done in five minutes, no holes, no bolts, drilling, no assembly, no problems. Looking back, I've never had to service a single castor (assuming it was properly rated). It's not like they're spinning at 10,000 RPM.
                              Just my opinion, Fish.

                              I just checked out one of my welding tables. It's an old hydraulic lift table I picked up used. They sell them new at Grainger/McMaster but this one's probably 50 yrs. old. Are the castors bolted? No, they're welded. And they're only tacked in four corners. When I say tacked, I mean about a 3/8" long dab. The table alone weighs 400-500 pounds, and I don't even want to think about how much weight I've had on top of it. No worries.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                I weld them more often than I bolt them - but that doesn't mean its the designed intent.

                                That's all I'm saying.

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