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  • New Toy

    I had to cut about 300 feet of expanded metal and was not looking forward to using my plasma cutter. I've seen these saws for sale but they seemed pricey and I was skeptical that it would do well. My LWS suggested trying this saw out and I'm glad I did. This is a great tool. I picked it up for $400 and it was money well spent. Adam

    Webb's Welding and Repair LLC
    MM210 w/a 3035 spoolgun
    Syncrowave 250
    Spectrum 625
    Trialbazer 302 w/HF
    http://webbsweldingandrepair.com/home

  • #2
    Everyone who has one loves them.

    I don't know how I got by without my milwaukee.
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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    • #3
      Troutman,

      Did you buy the Milsquawky "dedicated" cold cut, or just put a carbide blade in your go-roundy saw?

      Hank
      ...from the Gadget Garage
      Millermatic 210 w/3035, BWE
      Handler 210 w/DP3035
      TA185TSW
      Victor O/A "J" series, SuperRange

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      • #4
        I got the milwaukee 8" dry cut. It was $289 a couple years ago.

        The thickest I've cut is 1" and it goes a little slow on that, but anything under 5/8" is like cutting plywood.
        Syncrowave 250DX
        Invison 354MP
        XR Control and 30A

        Airco MED20 feeder
        Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
        Smith O/A rig
        And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

        Comment


        • #5
          I have been skeptical of these since I first saw one four years ago. What a nasty mess it could be if it fed back...? Or maybe I'm just being too paranoid?
          Miller Maxstar 200 DX
          RMLS-14 Momentary Hand Control
          Miller Syncrowave 180 SD
          Porter Cable 14" dry metal saw
          Hitachi 4.5" grinder
          http://mhayesdesign.com

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          • #6
            I was worried about kickback also. The blade cuts in a fwd/up motion and it never jumped once. Definitely don't want to try it single-handed though. It's heavier than a regular saw. It also collects a lot of shavings in a removable side compt. Adam
            Webb's Welding and Repair LLC
            MM210 w/a 3035 spoolgun
            Syncrowave 250
            Spectrum 625
            Trialbazer 302 w/HF
            http://webbsweldingandrepair.com/home

            Comment


            • #7
              We use to use a Skill worm drive saw and carbide pirana blade like 27 teeth or something a can of WD 40 some hearing protection and cut aluminum plate with it like 1 1/2" plate.
              Don't under estimate the power of a good saw and a properly designed blade.
              Kerry
              Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
              Millermatic 252 on the wish list
              Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
              South bend lathe 10LX40
              K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
              Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
              A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
              Auto shades are for rookies
              www.KLStottlemyer.com

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              • #8
                Originally posted by kcstott View Post
                We use to use a Skill worm drive saw and carbide pirana blade like 27 teeth or something a can of WD 40 some hearing protection and cut aluminum plate with it like 1 1/2" plate.
                Don't under estimate the power of a good saw and a properly designed blade.
                Kerry
                It's tuff to kill a good worm drive. Thats for sure!

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                • #9
                  how much are the blades and can they be sent off to re-sharpen?
                  2- XMT's 350 cc/cv
                  1- Blue star 185
                  1- BOBCAT 250
                  1- TRAILBLAZER 302
                  1- MILLER DVI
                  1- PASSPORT PLUS
                  1- DYNASTY 200 DX
                  1- MAXSTAR 150 STL
                  1- HF-251 BOX
                  1- S-74d
                  1- S-75DXA
                  2- 12-RC SUITCASES
                  1- 8-VS SUITCASE
                  2- 30 A SPOOLGUNS

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by fabricator View Post
                    how much are the blades and can they be sent off to re-sharpen?
                    My blades are around 40 or 50 bucks, can't remember exactly. I had Lenox and now I have the Morse Metal Devil and all three have warning not to have them resharpened. That could be because they would rather sell a new blade or liability concerns. I resharpened the Lenox myself on a 8" grinder and it did pretty good. I only used it to get me through until my new blades arrived though.
                    To all who contribute to this board.
                    My sincere thanks , Pete.

                    Pureox OA
                    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                    Miller Syncrowave 250
                    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
                      My blades are around 40 or 50 bucks, can't remember exactly. I had Lenox and now I have the Morse Metal Devil and all three have warning not to have them resharpened. That could be because they would rather sell a new blade or liability concerns. I resharpened the Lenox myself on a 8" grinder and it did pretty good. I only used it to get me through until my new blades arrived though.
                      About how long do they last?

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                      • #12
                        New Toy

                        Is that a pipe track or cutting guide in your first picture? If so, do you have more pics and detail? Otherwise, does anyone have a cutting guide for extra-long cuts (other than just clamping a piece of angle or channel)?

                        I got a Milwaukee 8" about 2 years ago and love it! It's great for cutting bar grate as well.

                        I have had a couple of 8" blades sharpened, but I don't think it's worth it.

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                        • #13
                          I used one of those to cut AL and I was disapointed. It sucked because the main part the saw slides on across the metal kept digging in and would not slide across it smoothly.

                          I did try it on MS and it worked very well.

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                          • #14
                            The milwaukee's baseplate is stainless and very smooth.

                            I haven't used it on AL yet though.
                            Syncrowave 250DX
                            Invison 354MP
                            XR Control and 30A

                            Airco MED20 feeder
                            Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
                            Smith O/A rig
                            And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You can tape or clamp a strip of Formica to any metals being cut that you don’t want to be damaged. Chips will get in between the base plate and metal and trash the finish even on plastic covered metals. Formica is nice and slippery and the saw will glide. Formica makes a good "folding" straight edge too. You can roll it up a 120 inch long 6 inch wide strip and tape it into a 2 foot loop. If you want to use it as a saw guide you need to add a thin strip of alauminioum angle to your saw base plate and let the Formica ride over the foot and run on the vertical leg. Two threaded holes to mount the angle is all you need. One strip under the saw, one as a guide and roll them both up together when done.
                              Last edited by Vicegrip; 04-03-2008, 05:45 AM.
                              Weekend wannab racer with some welders.

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