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  • Another tungsten question...sorry

    I have been reading my brains out on old threads, links supplied by members etc. I have searched till I'm searched out. I have a Syncro 200 Tig(transformer) machine.
    I have heard a lot of you like red(Thoriated)which are radio active, can be used on aluminum and as an all around tungsten but not the best choice for aluminum. They work but the ball seems to develope off kilter at times or small ball will develope off center if that makes sense. I didn't realize the were
    radio active. Guess I should have paid more attention(thanks forum members).
    I have a supply in several sizes and will use them(carefully)on steel which they are recommended and do well with DC.
    What I want is a good replacement for pure(green) to be used on aluminum ac that is not ACTIVE, holds its tip, lasts longer etc. There are so many choices, I'm confused.
    Anyone using a square wave machine and having good luck with a particular
    tungsten on aluminum, please chime in and explain why. Thanks.
    Nick
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
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    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  • #2
    Cerated Orange tip is the stuff to use now day's on aluminum.
    I've had good results with it.
    Kerry
    Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
    Millermatic 252 on the wish list
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    • #3
      Free Samples

      Hey Monte, can't answer you question cause I'm more green at this than you, but look for the thread about the thoriated/safe and there is a link for some free samples someone was kind enough to attach... Maybe you can get some to try and dial in your tig.

      John
      John

      Thunderbolt AC/DC
      MM 175
      Maxstar 150 STL
      Blue Star 185 DX
      Spectrum 375

      Comment


      • #4
        Monte,
        what Handy was referring toExcellent info about tungstens, but they focus more on inverter machines. (Kudos to Carmen-Electra from arc-zone for this)
        http://www.thefabricator.com/ArcWeld...le.cfm?ID=1276
        http://www.thefabricator.com/Consuma...cle.cfm?ID=834

        Free Tungsten samples from: www.Diamnondground.com
        up on top, click on "request free samples). Few of the guys say they're very good also.
        I'm not late...
        I'm just on Hawaiian Time

        Comment


        • #5
          When i was in collage i was told by my instructor that zirconiated tungsten works best for welding aluminum. It has a brown band but is a fair bit more expensive. I have no clue to weather its radio active or not but i hope this helps in your search.

          Comment


          • #6
            I'd tell ya since I've been using a Sync 250 for about 12 years, but you seem to find fault with most of my posts, so I'll keep my mouth shut.
            Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
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            More grinders than hands

            Comment


            • #7
              I too have a transformer based Syncro 250 and am watching this thread. It seems that the more you read the more answers you get as to the latest "best" tungsten alloy to use. Pure with a ball, Red with a point, Red with a blunt tip, Orange with a point or a blunt tip, long angles, short angles, caffeinated decaffeinated, great taste, less filling?

              It is hard to filter the advice in some books or online as it often starts out general but often ends up aimed at the inverter machines and things get unclear.

              Right now I am using good old green with a ball. I can make things that stay together until the check clears at least but I am no ex-purt by any measure and always want to improve my skills and methods.

              What is the latest advice for transformer machines on aluminum? I have to admit I am getting addicted to welding up aluminum. When it goes well it is satisfying because it takes knowledge and skill and is not just point and shoot.
              Weekend wannab racer with some welders.

              Comment


              • #8
                OH gosh....here we go again!

                MONTE...this is as close as I can put my OPINIONS into words.

                This is transformer info tho it relates to everything just in varying degrees.

                GREEN is crap...it just goes into thin air compared anything else. I wonder what it was ever compared to?

                RED is the standard that everything is measured up against. I find by using it all day on AC on aluminum which I do everyday like it or not it will make a ball on the tip nicely. But it will begin eroding away and start making several little b@ll$ and then splitting etc. If you consantly dip your tungsten or touch your filler then it would be fine cause you'll be grinding before it cycles out.

                BROWN.... is the ultimate OLD SCHOOL stuff. (for aluminum) It makes a nice ball on the end and will last forever untill you dip. It will even go after that if it is a light touch as will most tung. But brown is the best at cleaning itself IMO. IT would be my first choice to use if I was wanting to knock out a bunch of work as fast and maintenance free as I could and was using a transformer style machine. You just keep pulling it out as it wears away. When you want a more focused arc with a point then you begin to look into more exotic metals.

                ORANGE...welds great and will hold a point on a transformer longer than most.
                If you are wanting to get the most out of your syncrowave then this is a great choice to use because it will weld all day without splitting.

                GOLD....I find this about the best and is what I currently use. it is now readily available and will replace all colors. It will hold a ball nicely and will hold a point nicely. I holds up better than orange at high amps. It is 1 1/2% lanthanated and BLUE is 2% lanthanated but blue is much harder to find.
                Using lanthanated will cause you to let all your other coller to just sit and collect dust. So go get it NOW before you sink more money into all the other colors that you will never use once you get into this stuff.

                www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
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                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by SundownIII View Post
                  I'd tell ya since I've been using a Sync 250 for about 12 years, but you seem to find fault with most of my posts, so I'll keep my mouth shut.
                  Have no idea what you're talking about. If you had a post and I disagreed,
                  so what? I am allowed to state my opinion as anyone else, even you. If you don't want to share information........don't. I don't know what posts you're
                  talking about or do I care now. That's old business. I try not to remember
                  problem posts, but I guess you do. Remember this.......you haven't just held
                  back information from me, but the entire forum. Does that actually make you feel better?
                  Nick
                  Miller 252 Mig
                  Miller Cricket XL
                  Millermatic 150 Mig
                  Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
                  2-O/A outfits
                  Jet Lathe and Mill
                  Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
                  DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
                  Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
                  20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
                  Propane Forge
                  60" X 60" router/plasma table

                  www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
                  Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
                  and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
                    MONTE...this is as close as I can put my OPINIONS into words.

                    This is transformer info tho it relates to everything just in varying degrees.

                    GREEN is crap...it just goes into thin air compared anything else. I wonder what it was ever compared to?

                    RED is the standard that everything is measured up against. I find by using it all day on AC on aluminum which I do everyday like it or not it will make a ball on the tip nicely. But it will begin eroding away and start making several little b@ll$ and then splitting etc. If you consantly dip your tungsten or touch your filler then it would be fine cause you'll be grinding before it cycles out.

                    BROWN.... is the ultimate OLD SCHOOL stuff. (for aluminum) It makes a nice ball on the end and will last forever untill you dip. It will even go after that if it is a light touch as will most tung. But brown is the best at cleaning itself IMO. IT would be my first choice to use if I was wanting to knock out a bunch of work as fast and maintenance free as I could and was using a transformer style machine. You just keep pulling it out as it wears away. When you want a more focused arc with a point then you begin to look into more exotic metals.

                    ORANGE...welds great and will hold a point on a transformer longer than most.
                    If you are wanting to get the most out of your syncrowave then this is a great choice to use because it will weld all day without splitting.

                    GOLD....I find this about the best and is what I currently use. it is now readily available and will replace all colors. It will hold a ball nicely and will hold a point nicely. I holds up better than orange at high amps. It is 1 1/2% lanthanated and BLUE is 2% lanthanated but blue is much harder to find.
                    Using lanthanated will cause you to let all your other coller to just sit and collect dust. So go get it NOW before you sink more money into all the other colors that you will never use once you get into this stuff.
                    Hey, thanks for all the info.
                    Nick
                    Miller 252 Mig
                    Miller Cricket XL
                    Millermatic 150 Mig
                    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
                    2-O/A outfits
                    Jet Lathe and Mill
                    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
                    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
                    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
                    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
                    Propane Forge
                    60" X 60" router/plasma table

                    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
                    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
                    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Making a little book

                      FusionKing,
                      Thanks
                      Just making a little book (soon to grow fast) about information, so I won't have to keep asking the same questions over and over or to be able to help a new guy.
                      New guys, I suggest you start doing the same
                      I'm just opening up a new window in word, go to that document, make a new title or add to one already there, and just keep adding! (Started to need a table of contents!)
                      Oh, and I'm including the author, to give credit where credit is due!
                      Last edited by Bert; 03-12-2008, 10:42 AM. Reason: add instead of making a new post
                      I'm not late...
                      I'm just on Hawaiian Time

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thank you sir! I have some orange of each size I use and will break it out tonight. This is what I was getting from the books but having started out with Green was used to it.

                        Follow up question and then I will shut up for a while. How do you like to shape the tungsten? Truncated and ball the tip?
                        Weekend wannab racer with some welders.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Confused again

                          How can an orange tungsten from Diamond Ground products be Ceriated(non active) But Aglevtech.Com have an orange band tungsten that's thoriated?
                          Makes no sense to me.
                          Nick
                          Miller 252 Mig
                          Miller Cricket XL
                          Millermatic 150 Mig
                          Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
                          2-O/A outfits
                          Jet Lathe and Mill
                          Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
                          DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
                          Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
                          20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
                          Propane Forge
                          60" X 60" router/plasma table

                          www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
                          Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
                          and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nick:

                            If you do a little more research on colors for tungstens you will find that there is a US standard for colors, a European standard for colors, which is different that the US standard. Then there are some Asian manufacturers that have even different colors. And for my old eyes, the dark orange is hard to tell from the red sometimes. Beware buying by color. Buy by name.

                            I have a Syncrowave 200. Like you, I read a bazillion threads. If you read long enough, you will find every tungsten recommended as "the only one to use." Here is my experience with the 200.

                            I started with Ceriated on mild steel and stainless steel. Ground to a truncated point. Excellent results. On aluminum, I originally used pure tungsten, balled, because that was what I thought you were supposed to use with a transformer machine. It works, but the arc wanders and sort of makes things more difficult. After recommendations from other Syncrowave 200 owners I went to 1.5% Lanthanated tungsten, sharpened to a truncated point. The point will dull slightly, sort of like a dull pencil lead. Eventually, when the point really rounds I resharpen the tungsten. It provides fine arc control. Like a post above, using the Lanthanated on mild steel and stainless I find that it works as well or better than the Ceriated.

                            I cannot tell any different welding characteristics between the 1.5% Lanthanated and the 2.0% Lanthanated. The 2% seems to hold a point longer than the 1.5%. 2% is a little harder to find than 1.5% When I have used up the Ceriated that I have I will probably only stock 2% Lanthanated for all of my tig welding on aluminum, stainless, and mild.

                            Adios-----

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              FusionKing:
                              Thanks for taking the time, great information.
                              Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
                              This is transformer info tho it relates to everything just in varying degrees.

                              GREEN is crap...
                              Snicker.
                              RED is the standard that everything is measured up against. But it will begin eroding away and start making several little b@ll$
                              I'll be d*mned, I've seen that. Thought I was crazy.
                              If you consantly dip your tungsten or touch your filler then it would be fine cause you'll be grinding before it cycles out.
                              And this would explain why I didn't see it very often.
                              RETIRED desk jockey.

                              Hobby weldor with a little training.

                              Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

                              Miller Syncrowave 250.
                              sigpic

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