Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Another Joint Question

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Another Joint Question

    I have read several "joint" posts and I have a question.

    Lets say that you wanted to join .060 sheet to .250 plate, at 90 degrees.

    I am using a Syncrowave 200, orange tungsten only.

    Would you.....Radius the edge of the .060, or get it as close to sqare as possible? Sharpen the tungsten to a 45 degree point, or pencil it? pre-heat the .250 plate?.......?????

    What would you do?

    I am working towards making an intake manifold for a Pontiac 455, I believe that .060 is a good size for the runners, and .250 will be good for the base(to bolt to the heads) am I wrong? should I go thicker on the runners to minimize the heat difference for welding?

    I know one of you has fabbed an intake, tell me what you did.

    Thanks in advance, as I know that those of you that are more experienced answer alot of posts, and I really do appreciate your time and effort in answering all of our "noob" questions.

    P.S. I am also converting a HUGE schweitzer turbo into a turbo-jet engine, I will post some pics of that one when I get some more grinding and welding done.
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 03-08-2008, 02:27 AM.
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  • #2
    This will be no problem.use a 3/32 tungsten sharpened any way you like and3/32 filler wire.trick is to keep 2/3 of your welding heat at the thicker peice.
    2- XMT's 350 cc/cv
    1- Blue star 185
    1- BOBCAT 250
    1- TRAILBLAZER 302
    1- MILLER DVI
    2- PASSPORT PLUS
    1- DYNASTY 200 DX
    1- DYNASTY 280 DX
    1- MAXSTAR 150 STL
    1- HF-251 BOX
    1- S-74D
    1- S-75DXA
    2- 12-RC SUITCASES
    1- 8-VS SUITCASE
    2- 30 A SPOOLGUNS

    Comment


    • #3
      It would help to know the material you are using
      Nick
      Miller 252 Mig
      Miller Cricket XL
      Millermatic 150 Mig
      Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
      2-O/A outfits
      Jet Lathe and Mill
      Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
      DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
      Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
      20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
      Propane Forge
      60" X 60" router/plasma table

      www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
      Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
      and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

      Comment


      • #4
        What he said.
        And that applies to all joints with wide differences in material thickness. Focus most of the heat in the thicker part and let the weld wash into the thiner part.

        And you don't need to weld prep a fillet weld that can be welded full thickness in one pass. just clean it and fit up should always be as good as possible
        1/4 to 1/4 yes maybe a little weld prep but .060 to 1/4 not needed
        Miller Syncrowave 200 W/Radiator 1A & water cooled torch
        Millermatic 252 on the wish list
        Bridgeport Mill W/ 2 axis CNC control
        South bend lathe 10LX40
        K.O. Lee surface grinder 6X18
        Over 20 years as a Machinist Toolmaker
        A TWO CAR garage full of tools and a fridge full of beer
        Auto shades are for rookies
        www.KLStottlemyer.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Blackbird455 View Post
          I have read several "joint" posts and I have a question.

          Lets say that you wanted to join .060 sheet to .250 plate, at 90 degrees.

          I am using a Syncrowave 200, orange tungsten only.

          Would you.....Radius the edge of the .060, or get it as close to sqare as possible? Sharpen the tungsten to a 45 degree point, or pencil it? pre-heat the .250 plate?.......?????

          What would you do?

          I am working towards making an intake manifold for a Pontiac 455, I believe that .060 is a good size for the runners, and .250 will be good for the base(to bolt to the heads) am I wrong? should I go thicker on the runners to minimize the heat difference for welding?

          I know one of you has fabbed an intake, tell me what you did.

          Thanks in advance, as I know that those of you that are more experienced answer alot of posts, and I really do appreciate your time and effort in answering all of our "noob" questions.

          P.S. I am also converting a HUGE schweitzer turbo into a turbo-jet engine, I will post some pics of that one when I get some more grinding and welding done.
          I think 3/8ths for the base and 1/8th for the runners would make a much nicer intake. Otherwise the bolts would warp the flanges the first time you torqued them down and the rest of it would already be warped from welding it.
          If it backfired 60 just might balloon on you. Also that would leave some metal for blending everything inside nicely. The thicker flanges wouldn't amount to much weightwise esp on a Pontiac.
          I have a buddy with a SERIOUS 65 goat I've made many things for, that I've been trying for years to get him to have me make a intake for (thot about it way too much)

          www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
          Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
          MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
          Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
          Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

          Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
          Miller 30-A Spoolgun
          Miller WC-115-A
          Miller Spectrum 300
          Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
          Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

          Comment


          • #6
            6061 aluminum intake, not boat anchor


            I had the .250 plate horizontal, and with a 3/32 tung, I had to crank it to 100 amps or more to get it to puddle, and that makes the .060 run "the other way". So what I am saying is @ 50-70 amps torch vertical 90/90 to the .250 it wont puddle, but it will blow the .060 away. I guess i should consider 1/8th
            and 3/8 ths to make it easier on myself.
            SYNCROWAVE 200
            Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
            Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
            Makita Everything else
            2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
            "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
            USA 15T, 15V

            www.myspace.com/blackbird455

            http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

            Comment

            Working...
            X