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  • stainless tig

    im trying to make a nice shiney bead but it turnes out black im using 309L filler 1/16 on 16ga stainless. if i dont use any filler it looks ok but still not good enough and im using 3/32 red band tung with a really sharp point
    miller 330 abp
    everlast 225lx
    airco 250a tig
    hobart handler 125 mig
    o/a torches

  • #2
    what SS alloy base metal?
    miller dynasty 350
    miller spectrum 1000

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ridesideways View Post
      what SS alloy base metal?
      im not sure .i welded it in another shop and the welds were red and blueish and mostly real shiney
      miller 330 abp
      everlast 225lx
      airco 250a tig
      hobart handler 125 mig
      o/a torches

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      • #4
        ss tig

        309 is for welding mild steel to stainless steel try 308

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        • #5
          Originally posted by c neck View Post
          309 is for welding mild steel to stainless steel try 308
          thats gotta be it . i used 308 at the old shop
          miller 330 abp
          everlast 225lx
          airco 250a tig
          hobart handler 125 mig
          o/a torches

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          • #6
            Originally posted by c neck View Post
            309 is for welding mild steel to stainless steel try 308
            i tried welding a piece stainless to a piece of mild steel and it looks the same i lowered the heat and its still the same . its flat and black and there is no patern to it
            miller 330 abp
            everlast 225lx
            airco 250a tig
            hobart handler 125 mig
            o/a torches

            Comment


            • #7
              Have you tried Orange stripe tungs? How about cleaning the base and rod? Does the black wipe off, or not?
              SYNCROWAVE 200
              Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
              Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
              Makita Everything else
              2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
              "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
              USA 15T, 15V

              www.myspace.com/blackbird455

              http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

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              • #8
                Too slow

                Originally posted by mikesparks View Post
                im trying to make a nice shiney bead but it turnes out black im using 309L filler 1/16 on 16ga stainless. if i dont use any filler it looks ok but still not good enough and im using 3/32 red band tung with a really sharp point
                Do you have good torch control? If you do, try moving faster and using a little higher (10%) amperage. For better gas coverage, try a large gas lens or one of those jumbo cup and gas lenses from a machine torch that they have for manual torches (you will have to increase the gas flow with on of those to about 40 CFH). 309 should be ok. It might even require a little less amperage as 308. 309 runs a little wetter and seems to take less amperage, in my experience. You say you have no bead shape and the finish is black, a classic case of too high an amperage and too slow travel speed. Most welders weld SS too hot. By moving too slowly you increase the localized heat and usually get the result you've described. Come back on here and tell us what worked for you.
                Thanks, BH

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                • #9
                  Get in, hit it hard, get out

                  I agree with Stillwelding. Stainless doesn't like heat. It especially doesn't like to be slowly heated, since by the time you get the area around the seam hot enough, half the sheet is now super hot too. Get in, hit it hard, get out. That way you are heating the smallest area for as short a while as you can to get the puddle.

                  When I was starting out with stainless I wanted to go slowly. Lots of black beads. When I cranked-up the amps and moved more quickly, things improved greatly.

                  For keeping the back-side of the weld from looking too scary, try Solarflux.
                  http://www.solarflux.com/Pages/Whyuse.html
                  Unless you can back-purge, it sure beats the black cauliflower farm that will result on the back of the bead.
                  Dynasty 200 DX
                  Coolmate 3

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                  • #10
                    do you have a gas lense setup on your torch?? if not i would highly recommend it, i won't ever go back to a standard cup setup. i had foggy welds on normal steel and sooted up welds on stainless then switched to a gas lense and ohhh baabbyy what a difference.

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                    • #11
                      Stainless steal welding

                      First are you just welding stainless 304or 316? Second that wire your using is for welding stainless to carbon steal only . You want to use either 304 or316l wire. You'll get alittle discolor thats normal. But make sure your sheilding gas is comming out I prefer 30psi. The tungsten your using is okay for that operation. Hope this is helpful . I been welding stainless tig for the last 13 years. This should help you.

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