Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stainless Countertops

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    thanks arcdawg!
    One of my friends brought in a 4 metal SS shelf. I'm going to clean all the crud on it and practice!!
    bert
    I'm not late...
    I'm just on Hawaiian Time

    Comment


    • #32
      straight argon(industrial grade) is all you need

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by arky View Post
        straight argon(industrial grade) is all you need
        Straight Argon works better for alum. Stainless needs a few other gasses mixed in the bottle to preform right on SS. It will work but the bead will be high and big and not flow out right something you wouldn't want on your countertop where everyone will see it. Just my .02... Bob
        Bob Wright

        Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
        http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

        Comment


        • #34
          Bert!

          Originally posted by Bert View Post
          Oh btw, I have a Dynasty 200DX setup (air-cooled torch), but I don't know if all the places would have the proper outlet for it, especially at the residential places...Any machine you used that is 110 that could do the job?
          bert
          Bert, did you ever work on the countertops?
          Your Dynasty is the ideal machine for this type of work. Or any small DC TIG unit, like the little Maxstars that Admweld suggested. Don't waste your time with a MIG unit if you have the 110V TIG option.

          Good fit-up is critical, because once you start blowing holes you're in a world of hurt. You can weld outside corners without filler, which will make for easier post weld clean up.

          Practice practice practice on some scrap- both welding and polishing. You will learn that the polishing is just as hard as the welding, and should be given respect. You'll see. I wouldn't try to weld and buff out any butt joints, as they will only give you problems. Design accordingly, and use a press brake to form things as much as possible.

          Good luck!
          Maxstar 200DX
          Maxstar 300DX
          Dynasty 200DX
          Passport
          Spectrum 701
          LMSW-52 spot welder

          Comment


          • #35
            reviving an old thread but do you think something like this

            http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

            would bend 16 ga 304 stainless across 6 feet?

            If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by rick-l View Post
              reviving an old thread but do you think something like this

              http://www.ch601.org/tools/bendbrake/brakeplans.pdf

              would bend 16 ga 304 stainless across 6 feet?

              If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?
              Plain and simple no. Good idea but SS is pretty tough and 6' of 16 ga doesn't help any...Bob
              http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel
              Bob Wright

              Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
              http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by rick-l View Post
                If you see an ad that says "constructed of 18-8 stainless steel type 304-16" what does the 18-8 refer to?
                18-8 are the rough percentages of chromium and nickel, respectively
                (or is it nickel and chromium? i never remember :-).
                the rest is primarily iron & carbon (to make steel).

                the 18/8 gives you the rough properties of the steel.
                type 304 tells you the details
                (if you look 'em up in an appropriate reference, of course)

                frank

                Comment


                • #38
                  OK Changing the scope a little (down to 48") would this work? I would make the front edge a 1" box (2 bends) and a 5" back splash in back.

                  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45876

                  Would 20 ga. some how bonded to particle board make a good kitchen counter top?

                  Is this a dumb idea and that is why you don't see it very often?

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    400 amp air pack

                    Thats what I was using intill I got my xmt 304, now I'm shooten for Dynasty200. I had a HF 251D-1 hooked to the air pack. Had to drop the engine rpm to get the amps low enough for tiggen the commercial ketchen jobs. Now I grab the 304. But em wanten a Dynasty especially for those light aluminum tig work. Point is theres alot of ways to do alot of things.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Not to hijack, but Bodybagger could you elaborate on the setup you were referring to. I had heard that there was a way to do this and it only makes sense, but I'd love to have that capability as my home only has 115 everywhere but the box and currently (as it would have cost nearly $1600 to run it to the garage)I have installed a 230V recepticle at the box and run a 60amp commercial extension cord to the garage. It works, but reeling it out and in is a PITA so I'm open to ALL alternatives. Thanks.

                      Mark

                      P.S. I will start my own thread so as to not hijack the O.P.'s

                      P.P.S. I saw at a site I was working at a machine in the back of a truck that extrudes the SS counter tops with the edges formed into them from a roll of 16 gauge so the only seams are at the corners. It was a pretty *****en setup.
                      DYNASTY 200SD
                      COOLMATE 1
                      MM140AS
                      SPOOLMATE 100
                      SPECTRUM 625 X-TREME
                      SPECTRUM 125C

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by UH60LCHIEF View Post
                        Not to hijack, but Bodybagger could you elaborate on the setup you were referring to. I had heard that there was a way to do this and it only makes sense, but I'd love to have that capability as my home only has 115 everywhere
                        In North America a split phase electricity distribution system is used for residential customers. It is a 3-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system.

                        Essentially what this consists of is a transformer whose secondary is 240 volts with a center tap added and referenced to ground. These are the 3 wires brought into the house. Between each hot wire and neutral there is 120 volts 60 Hz. except one is 180 degrees out of phase (inverted) with the other. The 120 volt loads are supposed to be equally distributed between these two hot wires. The difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts.

                        If you go through the house with your meter you can find two 120 volt outlets around the kitchen whose hots are on different phases you will have 240 volts at whatever amps the lowest breaker is rated at on the 120 circuits.

                        The only hazzard in this is a dedicated 240 volt breaker would have both phases mechanically tied together so if it trips all power would be removed from the machine instead of it just looking like it is off. (ignore the large area EMI current loop and turn off your pacemaker )

                        Now about bending 16 ga stainless

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by rick-l View Post
                          In North America a split phase electricity distribution system is used for residential customers. It is a 3-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system.

                          Essentially what this consists of is a transformer whose secondary is 240 volts with a center tap added and referenced to ground. These are the 3 wires brought into the house. Between each hot wire and neutral there is 120 volts 60 Hz. except one is 180 degrees out of phase (inverted) with the other. The 120 volt loads are supposed to be equally distributed between these two hot wires. The difference between the two hot wires is 240 volts.

                          If you go through the house with your meter you can find two 120 volt outlets around the kitchen whose hots are on different phases you will have 240 volts at whatever amps the lowest breaker is rated at on the 120 circuits.

                          The only hazzard in this is a dedicated 240 volt breaker would have both phases mechanically tied together so if it trips all power would be removed from the machine instead of it just looking like it is off. (ignore the large area EMI current loop and turn off your pacemaker )

                          Now about bending 16 ga stainless
                          Thanks for the info. It sounds like amperage might still be a problem with this setup... Bummer. I guess I'll probably have to stick to spooling out my 120' 60amp extension cord to the outlet I installed at the panel for now. That frickin cord weighs a ton and is one unwieldy S.O.B. but I guess it gets the job done.
                          DYNASTY 200SD
                          COOLMATE 1
                          MM140AS
                          SPOOLMATE 100
                          SPECTRUM 625 X-TREME
                          SPECTRUM 125C

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Bert View Post
                            Got a friend getting me interested in doing stainless steel countertips for residential and commercial.
                            My friend told me about this stainless steel countertop (because I’m using ceramic tile countertop), she said that it is very hygienic. At first, I don’t believe on her but when I searched it in the internet just to confirm if it’s true….I’ve found more interesting facts about this SS countertop. Besides being a beautiful addition to your kitchen, the stainless steel countertop is stain resistant and heat proof. And it will always maintain its style. Because of its strength, steel has always been considered ideal for food preparation. Stainless steel countertop maintenance is easy. All you need is detergent and water to clean it. I think I should switch to stainless steel countertop.
                            Last edited by danneva; 08-23-2010, 02:50 AM.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X