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Stainless Countertops

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  • Stainless Countertops

    Got a friend getting me interested in doing stainless steel countertips for residential and commercial. Mostly where the splice the pieces to put them together. So...machine and small bottle of argon gas. What would be the best portable machine for this? I'm not familiar with the thickness of stainless they use, though I'm sure it's 316 grade.
    thanks for your help,

  • #2
    Oh btw, I have a Dynasty 200DX setup (air-cooled torch), but I don't know if all the places would have the proper outlet for it, especially at the residential places...Any machine you used that is 110 that could do the job?


    • #3
      Hi Bert, We just had a kitchen done at work from SS. It was 16 ga 304 and the corners were welded and the seams were short 90 degrees bent down and filled with seam sealer where the 2 parts butted together. The SS was also glued down to 2 layers of 3/4" particle board and a small trough ripped out where the seams were to let the small bends go down in. A good guy on a press brake can bend all the bends nice. The backsplash's were just SS channels 4" high glued over 3/4" board also then seamed to the counter top...Bob


      • #4
        I've got a spool of .023 308SS MIG wire that I've been using for my misc. SS projects. Got it free from a shop that did SS guage panels when they went out of business. You may be able to run a small 110v mig for your field work.


        • #5
          Bob and DSW,
          thanks for the replys,
          Bob, did you know what they used for seam filler? I hear lot of guys tig the ends/seam together. I wonder what looks nicer?
          Like DSW mentioned, would a 110v machine be enough for SS 16ga 304??
          thanks all,


          • #6
            The seam sealer dosen't look that bad since the panels are bent down so it just fills up the little fillet. The sealer was just regular duct sealer like a tin shop would use and it was a silver color. Silver silcone would work also. I questioned the guys and the use of it and they said that how they do all the jobs. I maybe can get a pic of it...Bob


            • #7
              The way i have seen it done at my work is with a 110v tig like maxstar 150 i have a 140.After welding the seams i have seen these guys polish them with flap wheel and buff them with claybars ans the seams disappear.This is not something that i have personally done and don,t know all the exact products they use.But let me tell ya it is pretty impressive,you cant even find the seams.


              • #8
                they make a lot of tools for resurfacing the SS after welding it, most are big $$'s. as for welding it i would just use the Dyn on 120V if your TIG work is up to scratch. then resurface it.
                SS welds about the same a steel as for amp's per thickness, but its much more prone to warp-age due to the density of it. keep that in mind, and do a little practicing.........ok maybe a lot of practicing.


                • #9
                  Bob, pic would be great

                  Admweld, thanks for checking that out and remembering what they used. What are claybars? Same stuff you use on a buffer/polisher (wax stuff?)

                  James re: practice: OOOHHHHHHHHhhhh yeahhh!!! Friend is supposed to give me some SS shelving they are renovating from a resturaunt.
                  thanks guys,


                  • #10

                    They use them i believe to remove the heat marks.part of the polishing process. I have used them on a motocycle to polish the aluminum frame after sanding.


                    • #11
                      admweld, so it that the wax/clay stuff I'm thinking about?


                      • #12
                        One vote for a small mig. You will be able to weld it faster with the mig,
                        less total heat input and less warping. The warping is the big pain in the
                        butt with stainless, big flat sheets are even a bigger pain.
                        Tig works well for small patch work...cracked corners etc.


                        • #13
                          maxstar 150 would be perfect for that kind of work, i wouldnt touch a counter top with a mig machine unless your looking to do a lot of grinding

                          just run a few small stiches on the bottome of the seam, and fusion weld the top side, that is how i see them done, and the only work you have to do afterword is pickel it, no grinding, buffing, etc


                          • #14

                            You've already got the best machine (Dynasty 200 DX) for the job. Just run it off 120v and you're there.

                            If you didn't already have the Dynasty, the new Maxstar 150 STH (w/hi freq) is the machine I'd recommend. About 14 lbs, and 120v capable. Plenty machine to weld the SS you're talking about. Check it out in the new Miller catalog.


                            • #15
                              Bert, I have done a bunch of commercial stainless countertops. The ones that I have worked with are usually 24 to 28 gauge brushed stainless. Very difficult to try and weld. Wherever the seam is going to be we usually break the adjoining edges and use a spot welder to join them. too much warpage and too much work to polish them up for a complete match. Wherever the seam lies we put a bead of silicone to take up the space between the breaks.

                              P.S. If you don't understand my post, give me a call and I'll try to better describe it. Dave


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