No announcement yet.

How would you fix this leak?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16

    Thats kinda my preference, just didn't know if the 6010 was better in some way, Thanks
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]


    • #17
      6010 Rods

      We use 6010 rods up here a lot for root passes on pipe. It is a good choice because we can push the weld through the gap between the lands of the 'v' groove, the rod freezes quickly, and provides weld re-inforcement to the inside of the pipe. The hot pass - usually a 7018 or similiar is used to burn out any slag inclusions, and fill any undercut left behind by the 6010. I use it sometimes for a root pass when doing repairs to accomodate poor fit up when you can't get in there for proper weld prep. My hot pass, extra fill passes, and cap pass are ususally 7018,8018,10018,11018 etc.
      I also use 6010 for welding on gauge metal lightboxes etc. when I'm outside to prevent burnthrough or distortion.

      I am not a pipeline welder so if I offended anyone, I apologize in advance.

      Last edited by Black Wolf; 05-15-2007, 07:09 PM. Reason: spelling

      Professional Spark Generator by Trade.


      • #18
        6010 is very similar to 6011. It's DC only and is a little less agressive. 6011 is better suited to dirty, painted, and rusty metals. 6011 is AC or DC and has a far less stable arc on AC. 6010 is smoother running and for most ppl. has more control over the arc. I always choose 6010 over 6011 unless it's crummy metal then I'll use 6011. Also you can take either one (6011 preferably) and quick dip the rod in water then crank your machine all the way and use it for severing plates and stuff. The water gives it a more agressive arc and alows for better cutting. It actualy works realy well for non critical stuff and quick fixes when decent cutting tools arn't availale.


        • #19
          Excellent questions.

          Originally posted by Bert View Post
          How do you weld with water still coming out?
          p.s. Is that a Craftsman 4 1/2 " grinder? and what was the bolt for?
          To weld through the flowing water, we were running our 1/8" rods at 250 amps to keep the puddle fluid. That indeed was a Craftsman grinder (good eye). The bolt was the final step in stopping the leak. When we tried to weld it up, the pressure on the pipe kept blowing out the puddle before it could be fully closed and the final "plug" had to be mechanical.

          Originally posted by HMW View Post
          Here's a dumb question I see alot of guys use 6010 rods. Why?
          Your question could not be further from dumb. 6010 rod is used by pipe welders to make the root pass. When done correctly, the weld bead will be on the inside of the pipe demonstrating complete penetration and forging a fluid tight seal. The next pass(es) are done differently by different welders. I run my hot passes with 6010 because I like the way it lays down. When running 6010, you actually drag the rod tip in the puddle and maintain that contact. Other welders, like my partner in the pic (he is the best welder I have ever known), run their hot passes with 7018 for strength. Then cap it with 7018 for strength and that beautiful "stacked" look.

          I hope this helps.

          Ammonia refrigeration tech
          Trailblazer 302 (yes, it's new)
          Millermatic 180 w/Autoset
          HF-15 High frequency
          XR15 w/Push-Pull Gun
          Victor O/A, DeWalt, North mask

          "A professional knows what to do. A craftsman knows why."


          • #20
            Next time you run acroos this problem try sharping a drift punch, drive it into the hole until the water stops, weld around it and cut it off. We have done this many times on process water, chill water and even high pressure gas.


            • #21
              Thats and interesting idea
              HMW [Heavy Metal welding]