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Wood burning stove for garage

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  • Wood burning stove for garage

    Anyone own one ? If so how do you like it ? I was looking at this one just to see what there all about

    http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...=47723&R=47723

    One load last 5 hours , for the price of wood compared to how much kersene cost, that sounds really nice.

    Any opinions ? Probably look into it more for next year, maybe insult the garage, seal it up really good. Garage is a 2 car but actually is a little bigger, how many btu should I be looking at do you think ?

  • #2
    A friend heats his stone counter top fab shop with a massive wood stove. It does ok but due to the size of the shop they still use spot propane heaters. One thing with a wood stove to keep in mind is all the extra work that goes with it. He pays his guys to cut the wood and haul it into the shop. I have pointed out to him the cost for this not cheep considering what a skilled fab guy makes. He insists he is still saving $$. I think wood would be fine for a hobby type environment. For a commercial environment natural gas on a thermostat is the way to go.

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    • #3
      I burn wood in my barn and it's great. There was already a flu in the barn when I moved here so it was pretty easy to hook up. My stove also has a blower mounted to the bottom of it and an 8" duct outlet on top. I duct the hot air into the other room. The radient heat from the stove heats the machine room and the ducted hot air heats the other shop. Really kicks when it's loaded full of wood.

      I got my stove for free and I'm guessing that you probably could as well. Seems like there are so many people out there who think it's a great idea to get a wood stove for the house and then they find out that it doesn't come with someone to haul the logs and keep the fire going - it's actually work and in today's society that equals lots of wood stoves that are just sitting around waiting for the right person to take them away. I put out an ad at work (I work for a fairly large company) and got 4 replies in 2 days for free wood stoves. That was a few years ago but I'm sure it still holds true for the most part. Maybe some people are using them now with the fuel costs what they are today but I'll bet you could still find one - especially for the shop cause looks aren't that important out there - at least for the heater.

      I looked at three different ones and then decided on the one that I have because of the blower. One of them was a hot water boiler but I figured that was a water freezing potential unless I kept it fed 24x7. I did have to do some work to the one I got. There was a broken grate which I recreated out of scrap metal I had lying around and one hinge on the cast front door was busted which I had welded since I'm not too experienced with welding cast. Anyway, good luck with finding one and hopefully you won't have to spend that $500 on a heater. Enjoy your new TIG!

      Steve

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      • #4
        For $500 you could build one yourself with that pretty new welder.

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        • #5
          when it comes to wood stoves, there are some golden rules:

          1. If in house or in building close to house, buy one that is certified for such. Do not make one unless you want to jeopardize your insurance. (Save the home-made ones for the little shed or fully detached work-shop, but not an attached garage)

          2. It is way better to pay more upfront for a better quality stove with less gimmicks than to get the cheaper snazzy ones.

          3. Get an airtight,

          4. Again, get an airtight

          5. You guessed it, get an air tight, AND make sure it is installed to proper local (or applicable) code.

          That said, they are great, we heat our house here in canuck-land all winter from october to may with one. This brings our heating bill down from the hundreds to about $45 / year for the natural gas used here and there. Also, insulate well, it will make all the difference in the world. An airtight can burn for about 90 minutes on a load if heating a space that is not insulated well and it is being run close to wide open, or, if insulated well, it can last for close to 8 hours. Do this right (easiest to just call a pro, then it is usually done right and to code) and it will reward you. Plus, chopping wood is good for ya

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          • #6
            Burn times listed with stoves are a bit optimistic. I have a wood burning stove in my family room. The room is 1000 square ft with an 8/12 ceiling. The stove can heat it without a problem, but it must be fed about every 4 hours to actually keep the heat up. Unfortunately the room is not as well insulated as is should be. If I recall the burn time listed with the unit I have is 9 hrs and should heat upto about 2000 square ft. Coalsmoke gave you the keys to being happy with a wood burning setup. Good Luck.

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            • #7
              If corn is available in your area you might consider building a corn burner, it would be the cheapest unless you have a good supply of wood. Ive never seen a corn burner but a stove like that interest me.

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              • #8
                hey. menards has a nice wood burning stove for under $200. and the blower and venting will be around $150. and it would heat your garage very nicely. you just have to be carefull with them, and set them up right. Free heat is GREAT.

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                • #9
                  its never free! Here we can pay as little as $170 a cord for "sesoned" wood thats stored out in the rain. Or as much as 250 a cord for dry split hardwood that burns quietly and slowly but makes a reasonable amount of heat from a fireplace.

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                  • #10
                    free firewood is not too hard to find around here. over a summer enough can be found to last all winter. no, its not fully free. still have to go get it = gas/labor.

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                    • #11
                      Just be sure it is not pine.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Blown S-10
                        free firewood is not too hard to find around here. over a summer enough can be found to last all winter. no, its not fully free. still have to go get it = gas/labor.
                        Very true

                        Why can't it be pine ? I never burned would so I have no clue.

                        Thanks for all the replys, I'm going to look into it more. I would be doing this next year in the summer, so I'm planing ahead.

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                        • #13
                          The sap in pine turns to a vapor when burned and goes up the chimney with the smoke. As the vapor cools it condenses on the chimney pipe and builds up over time. The sap lining the the chimney can catch fire and start what is know as a chimney fire. These can be very scary as the chimmey gets very very hot. They and have been know to ignite combustibles near the chimney pipe. Hence the recommendation for professional installation. DIYer's beware, if you install your unit yourself and your house burns and the operation of what you installed is found to be the cause of the fire your insurance company will not pay out. Take care.

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                          • #14
                            Some softwoods are very high in pitch, and that pitch, if burned in the sotve on a continuous use, will plug the chimney with flamable tars much faster than your average hardwoods. The pine in htis area isn't too bad, if you stay ontop of it and clean your chimney half-way through winter, but the sappy douglas fir here is killer on chimneys. Alder and birch are the common hardwoods in these parts and burn well and fairly clean when seasoned (properly).

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                            • #15
                              when i weld outside i just make a nice big in a 55 gallon drum, that keeps near your work warm

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