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Syncrowave 300 Gas Control Issues Replacement Relays and Circuit Availability???

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  • Syncrowave 300 Gas Control Issues Replacement Relays and Circuit Availability???

    Thank you for the add!
    I have a OLD Syncrowave 300 Serial Number JA369503 that is having an intermittent problem with the gas valve staying on (not a mechanical problem as it shuts off when the power is turned off). Currently it goes on and off with the pedal but will not post flow.
    I started looking for replacement boards and got sticker shock!
    Does anyone rebuilt or repair these boards?

  • #2
    1997CST has just recommended Global Electronic Services in the adjacent Legend AEAD 200 LE thread.

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    • #3
      Had the same problem. On the PC2 board there were 3 relays and 1 was bad. It was one of the 24v relays. CR51
      part # isR48-5D10-24. You can get them at electronic stores. Also they are soldier in type so get a soldier sucker to remove old soldier. Good luck

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      • #4
        Also don't try activating the relay while it's still on board (to test) unless you like smoke. Don't ask me how I know.

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        • #5
          Aeronca41 Thank you for the reply ....I have reached out to Global Electronic Services for a quote ... still waiting.
          The big question is "Is it more cost efficient to repair or just replace" I really like this machine but $500 (just a quick internet search) a board is pricey

          Old welder ... Yes, all of the relays on that board (052 791 is the number on in) show their age. I will look into this deeper as time allows.
          Thank you both for the help!

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          • #6
            Old welder ... were you to find the 12V Relay that is also on the board?

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            • #7
              Are you into electrical/electronic troubleshooting on live equipment? Or a friend or acquaintance? We sometimes can tell you where to measure voltages to troubleshoot but don't want to get you killed If you don't have electrical training or experience. Lots of stuff in there that can bite you. May be able to trace it to a $20 part but not worth placing yourself in danger.

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              • #8
                The 12v is the same but 12-12 at the end. I'm not a electronics tech, just like fixing things myself and save some $. To replace all 3 relays would take 30-40 minutes tops. The first is the learning one the east go fast. You can't get shocked, the board slides out and you do it on a table. Also the other 2 are for HF and one was bad.

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                • #9
                  Aeronca41... I spent several years as a dealership auto technician doing driveability and electrical repair, so I'm familiar with low voltage DC and respect AC. I look forward to any advice you have.

                  Old welder ... I just read my last post over ... sorry for the poor grammar, I should know better than to use my phone to respond.
                  I have had both boards out and like I was saying the contact points are well worn (burnt) I believe it was the 24V Relay, CR50 that looked the worst

                  I do shut off the machine, the breaker that feeds it, and wait quite a while before polking around. (And i am very aware of the bank of capacitors at the bottom of the machine.

                  AGAIN gentlemen, THANK YOU for your time!

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                  • #10
                    Your problem could very well be a bad relay--just have to determine which one. Pretty busy week; will try to get time to look at the diagrams and have you check some voltages. As you no doubt learned working on troubleshooting auto electrical systems, it's easy to find the point you want to measure on the diagram, but sometimes a lot harder to get a meter probe on it in the real world. Not having worked inside a welder like yours, I can't be much help in the physical access end of the problem, but can provide some logical troubleshooting steps if I can get some time to look at the diagrams. Will try to do so as soon as I can.

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                    • #11
                      Using the parts list and schematic, I'd begin by measuring AC voltage between pins A and B of relay CR2. You should find no voltage there when there should be no gas flowing. If you find 24 vac there when the gas is "stuck on", the problem is not the relay. If you have no voltage there, and the gas is on, try tapping the relay with a screwdriver handle and see if the gas goes off. If it does, the relay is bad. If it doesn't, the relay could still be bad but will need some more troubleshooting.

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                      • #12
                        No hurry, I realize the next few weeks will be busy for most.
                        I really appreciate your time!

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                        • #13
                          If you need relays and Miller doesn't stock an upgraded part number, I may have something. When a couple of the relays in my old helga went tits up, I kind of went crazy buying relays. If I have something that will fit, you can have it. My guess is Miller has a replacement relay. It will be an enclosed one instead of the open body style. Miller stocks them for my 1974 machine.

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                          • #14
                            Thank you for the offer!
                            Which relays do you have? The CR1and CR2 that stand alone and plug in with spade type connectors or the CR50 24V and CR51 12V relays that are soldered to the board?

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                            • #15
                              I have no idea. I have them in a box in the shop. I can take a look and let your know the specs on them.

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